Transmission oil levels
Thread Starter
Track Day
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne, Australia
Ok. problem seemingly solved. My oil temp sender or guage are not working properly. My guage was showing 210 today, so I dropped into the shop and they IR zapped the point in the case just above the sender - the reading was 180F. They swore that the IR temp thingy was dead accurate as they had tested on some other P cars. Am I relieved.
Fred
Fred
RL Technical Advisor
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,870
Likes: 75
From: Portland Oregon
Hi Fred:
Installing the 2.2S P/C's makes a definite difference!
Between the displacement & compression increase, you might be running too lean and a jetting change might be in order. If your car was here, I'd make a run or two on a chassis dyno with an A/F instrument and see what your A/F ratios are at part and full throttle.
Installing the 2.2S P/C's makes a definite difference!
Between the displacement & compression increase, you might be running too lean and a jetting change might be in order. If your car was here, I'd make a run or two on a chassis dyno with an A/F instrument and see what your A/F ratios are at part and full throttle.
Thread Starter
Track Day
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne, Australia
thanks for the idea. I will try and organize that if possible.
It could be connected, but when I was trying to work out the temp thing, I had the ignition returned from 16 deg at idle (not sure what it was at 6,000 rpm) to spec of 5 deg and 30 deg at 6,000. When I did that the engine felt like it was gutless and had no power and the exhaust was backfiring. When I had the ignition upped to 16 deg at idle again, it really has much more grunt and it seems to run better.
You mentioned compression increase going from 2.0 to 2.2, but I thought it actually went down?
Not that I have a clue, but reading B. Anderson's book it says the compression will drop 4/10 of a point with the displacement increase.
It could be connected, but when I was trying to work out the temp thing, I had the ignition returned from 16 deg at idle (not sure what it was at 6,000 rpm) to spec of 5 deg and 30 deg at 6,000. When I did that the engine felt like it was gutless and had no power and the exhaust was backfiring. When I had the ignition upped to 16 deg at idle again, it really has much more grunt and it seems to run better.
You mentioned compression increase going from 2.0 to 2.2, but I thought it actually went down?
Not that I have a clue, but reading B. Anderson's book it says the compression will drop 4/10 of a point with the displacement increase.
Anti-Cupholder League
Joined: Aug 2003
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your gauge may well be accurate if it reads 210oF and a reading of the surface of the outside of the area around the sender reads 180oF The cone of acceptance for IR thermometers is fairly large - it is rare to find anyone who knows how they work or how to use them or the sources of error....
Don't rely on it -- swap out the sender for a new one if you are really concerned about this.
Don't rely on it -- swap out the sender for a new one if you are really concerned about this.
Thread Starter
Track Day
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne, Australia
I think I have to swap out the sender and guage. Mine are from '67 and I don't think there are immediate replacements - I will need to get a set for a later period, I think.
Anti-Cupholder League
Joined: Aug 2003
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I'd pull the sender out - reconnect it to the gauge and put it in a pail of stirred oil with a thermocouple or other accurate temperature measuring device. Take 3 readings at different temperatures near the temp. you are interested in and compare the delta. Graph it if you want. This will show if the temps. you are reading are good or not.
Thread Starter
Track Day
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne, Australia
engine temp update
I am happy to say that all is well. 
I pulled out my oil temp combo gauge and had a local gauge shop calibrate a new sender and module (while retaining the stock 1967 face). Yesterday I put the gauge back in the car and replaced the sender. I was a little nervous about the sender install but it seems ok (there are no leaks). I couldn't fit a torque wrench to tighten the sender in (no room) but I just hope I didn't tighten it too much without it.
Anyway, the cut the story short, whereas I was showing temps of 210-215F before, I am now showing a max of around 175-178F when it was 67F outside, and that was with expressway driving for 25 min.
The old sender I pulled out, was, I think, the original unit. It was about 3 times as long as the replacement and had a number starting with 901.....
Fred
I pulled out my oil temp combo gauge and had a local gauge shop calibrate a new sender and module (while retaining the stock 1967 face). Yesterday I put the gauge back in the car and replaced the sender. I was a little nervous about the sender install but it seems ok (there are no leaks). I couldn't fit a torque wrench to tighten the sender in (no room) but I just hope I didn't tighten it too much without it.
Anyway, the cut the story short, whereas I was showing temps of 210-215F before, I am now showing a max of around 175-178F when it was 67F outside, and that was with expressway driving for 25 min.
The old sender I pulled out, was, I think, the original unit. It was about 3 times as long as the replacement and had a number starting with 901.....
Fred
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Thread Starter
Track Day
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne, Australia
Overfilled engine oil...............
Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Hi Fred:
Those kinds of temps indicate some issues to me. Things such as early or late ignition timing, oil cooler obstruction or dirty cooler, overfilled oil tank, improper oil filter (Yankee ones), fuel mixture lean from either wrong jetting to plugged fuel filters to low float levels, slipping fan belt, etc.
These things run at 180 and 200 when really hot outside. IMHO, some detective work would be prudent if maximum engine life is expected.
Those kinds of temps indicate some issues to me. Things such as early or late ignition timing, oil cooler obstruction or dirty cooler, overfilled oil tank, improper oil filter (Yankee ones), fuel mixture lean from either wrong jetting to plugged fuel filters to low float levels, slipping fan belt, etc.
These things run at 180 and 200 when really hot outside. IMHO, some detective work would be prudent if maximum engine life is expected.
I have found out that my oil was overfilled (initially really high and then to max on the dipstick). You had mentioned that high oil could be one of the causes of running hot. With the oil level just under max it has been running at 200F (when 75+ outside), and I am about to get the oil changed and the proper level filled.
Other than your comment I haven't found any other mention of overfilled oil causing high temps - is this just a prob with earlier cars? And, given I have only driven 300 miles on the engine, would this mean my rings could take longer to seat or could have done some damage?
thanks Fred
