Clutch Adjustment 87' G50
#1
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Clutch Adjustment 87' G50
My clutch engages less than an inch from the floor. I think this need to be moved up a bit.
How do I do the adjustment on this hydraulic system? I checked the archives and found nothing for the G50.
Thanks.
How do I do the adjustment on this hydraulic system? I checked the archives and found nothing for the G50.
Thanks.
#2
RL Technical Advisor
Hi Randy:
The reason you didn't find any clutch adjustment procedures for the G-50 equipped cars is that there isn't any,.....
All hydraulically actuated clutches are self adjusting. There is no way you can change the freeplay. You might check the clutch MC actuating rod to see if its at the right length as that will help.
Is your clutch relatively new?
The reason you didn't find any clutch adjustment procedures for the G-50 equipped cars is that there isn't any,.....
All hydraulically actuated clutches are self adjusting. There is no way you can change the freeplay. You might check the clutch MC actuating rod to see if its at the right length as that will help.
Is your clutch relatively new?
#4
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Try moving the pedal by hand (crawl under the dash). Is the pedal much lower than the brake pedal? There is a roll pin that attaches the clutch pedal to the actual lever that is attached to the master cylinder. This roll pin has been known to slowly fail. If you search around for clutch roll pin, you should get more info. (especially the 964 forum, I checked, and the G50 3.2 has the same roll pin)
-Eric
90 C2
NER/PCA
-Eric
90 C2
NER/PCA
#5
RL Technical Advisor
Hi Randy:
I do not use Centerforce clutches as I've had too many problems like this. They seem to have a QC problem with their Porsche stuff.
I use Sachs stuff only on street cars since I never have a come-back,....
I do not use Centerforce clutches as I've had too many problems like this. They seem to have a QC problem with their Porsche stuff.
I use Sachs stuff only on street cars since I never have a come-back,....
#7
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Randy, My '88 clutch pedal was slow to return or stayed/hung near the floorboard and my first thought was that it was binding so I cleaned/lubed the pedal assembly . This did'nt help much and then it additionally began to engage a inch or so off the floor so I bled the system. Not fixed yet so I replaced the clutch master clylinder first and then was going to put in the slave clylinder if that didn't work. I lucked out, with the clutch master replaced it shifts great. The slave will go in if symptoms reappear, the slave replacement looks a bit tougher than the clutch master due to its location and limited space. Did they replace your clutch slave and master cylinders? A Pressure bleeder is really necessary for clearing air in the clutch system also.
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#8
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No neither one has been replaced to my knowledge. I really didn't pay so much attention to it until I got the 993. The clutch engages in a very different location. One I feel more comfortable with.
How can I trouble shot it to tell if the unit is bad?
How can I trouble shot it to tell if the unit is bad?
#9
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Try to see if any leakage is evident at the clutch master by removing the floorboard, sure sign of impending failure. The slave will run about $45-50 and the master $50-60. Don't know any easy test, but if the clutch is engaging low the clylinder(s) probably are not generating enough pressure to move the TO bearing a proper distance thus the low engagment point. But air in the system could be contributing also