TC_SJ

Have any ever use this pad and how hard to install it, need to replace mine soon

or any other brand that you would recomend

TC_SJ

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7933406008

itsme-itsme

Check the catalogs. That seems nearly retail. The one for my SC was $48. Haven't put it in yet.

TC_SJ

what catalogs ?, please advise

Thanks

imcarthur

Pelican for one:

Pelican Parts Sound Mat

Ian

GeorgeM

That price matches their website. If you can find the same cheaper, get it. The product is a huge improvement over the stock piece, looks great too. Appbiz has a great reputation as well.

Bill Gregory

Porsche or OEM stock pad is around $45, and can be installed with a partial engine drop.

imcarthur

A current thread on Pelican on the same topic:

Pelican Thread

I have also read that it is possible without an engine drop if you remove some engine parts & curse a lot. A spring project for me . . .

Ian

TC_SJ

Can you leave the old pad there and just slide a new one in, I am too scrare to drop the engine, which I can not imagine how too.

theasphaltgambler

I've done a few in these cars. Not easy but you can do it, probably a good Saturday (most all day) job. Remove the air filter box, then the air meter with elbow boot attached from the throttle body. Put a rag into and over the throttle body to avoid stuff falling in. Remove the forced fan and plastic ducting to the left.

Lay a fender cover or a bed sheet over the entire engine. Gently bend the tabs that hold the top edge of the insulation rearward just enough to slide the pad down and out. Then (with patience) peel what you can starting from pass side working over to the driver side. Use a large putty knife with a 4-5" wide blade. Gaurantee that the pad will crumble into pieces as you scrape! Have a wet-dry shop vac handy and vacuum up the crumbs as you go. don't worry if there is still some small clumps of glue. You just want it as smooth as possible.

If you have cruise control the unit is in the way, but you can work around it . I like to use a good commercial adhesive like 3-M trim spray adhesive and spray both the pad and the firewall generously. If you work quickly, this allows some sliding and positioning of the pad and really keeps it in place and prevents sagging later.

imcarthur

Thanks for the tips. It doesn't sound too painful. So, about a six beer job then?

Ian

theasphaltgambler

Depends on the weather!

imcarthur

Yeah, that's why it's a spring project for me . . .

purrybonker

See my remarks on the other thread on this topic running here - I rank this job (engine in place) as about a 0.5 beer job. As I seem to be the only one who thinks this is about equivalent to doing an oil change - I am becoming convinced that I must have some special pad swapping skills!

As to adding a new pad over the old one - that's just silly talk.

The comments from theasphaltgambler about technique are spot-on.

Peter Zimmermann

TC_SJ: Contrary to some member comments, after replacing (as I stated in the other thread) many pads over the years, I don't see how it can be done in less than 2 hours, especially the first time! My shop estimated 1 hour (engine out) and 3 hours (engine in), if it took less we charged less. Most customers opted to wait until the engine was out of their car, which made us very happy! The important part of cleanup is to be sure you're able to vacuum all the little pieces of foam, if you don't your cooling fan will suck them in and distribute them across the top of your cylinders, heads and engine oil cooler. Many times scraping away the old pad is a lot of work, but the surface must be clean for the glue to adhere properly. To avoid damaging the new pad (it's pretty fragile) the partial engine drop is mandatory, if not it can be torn on different items. Also, with the rear tabs bent down your work space is lessened even further. One additional note, I mentioned 3M Contact Cement (aerosol) - be aware that there are two kinds: (1) Regular, (2) Heavy Duty. Be sure that you buy the latter. When you glue the new pad, fit it in place first and start between the shock towers. If you don't glue it there(I put glue to within about 2" from the bottom) the new pad will fail far sooner than it should. Be sure to tuck it in forward of the wiring harness, like the old one, or it won't fit properly at the rear tabs. You must remove the hydraulic damper that holds your lid up (it's inconvenient, but you'll have to use a portable hood support tool, a dowel, or something like that to hold open the engine lid) because you will find a rectangular cut out in the new pad that fits over the damper's connection point. That cut out insures that you're putting the correct side of the pad against the car! I have never installed a pad bought from an aftermarket source, only from Porsche, so I can't comment on alternate purchases. Be thankful that you have a Carrera, other models are harder to do!