Short Shift Kit for 911?
#16
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FWIW, my 84 came with the Weltmeister short-shift, and 2nd gear is not my friend. I've been double-clutching since picking her up. Only a good rev-match on 2nd will allow a smooth into-2nd shift for me, otherwise it's binding / fighting me.
I'm starting out with Pelican's re-bushing kit (on order now), and will likely go with Wevo's coupler this winter, also looking at the whole Wevo / Gate setup as well, before going deeper into the transmission for improved shifting. This is one of the few complaints I have with the 911 over other cars I've owned / driven. I understand the car is not intended to be a quarter-mile / stoplight bruiser, but smooth shifting is very important to me, especially if I do ever end up taking her out on the road course tracks.
I'm starting out with Pelican's re-bushing kit (on order now), and will likely go with Wevo's coupler this winter, also looking at the whole Wevo / Gate setup as well, before going deeper into the transmission for improved shifting. This is one of the few complaints I have with the 911 over other cars I've owned / driven. I understand the car is not intended to be a quarter-mile / stoplight bruiser, but smooth shifting is very important to me, especially if I do ever end up taking her out on the road course tracks.
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Add in the WEVO internal gateshift and a coupler and you'll be into $2K with installation
84_Carrara.... hate to break it to you, but could be your synchros too... PO could have worn the synchros from the short shift. This is a very weak point in these cars...2nd really takes a beating.
84_Carrara.... hate to break it to you, but could be your synchros too... PO could have worn the synchros from the short shift. This is a very weak point in these cars...2nd really takes a beating.
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I used the standard WEVO, no gateshift and the wevo coupler.
Shifter: $595
Coupler: $195
Plus labor to install it which was not itemized on my bill so I don't know how many hours it took. I doubt more that 4 hours for a pro that has done this in the past a few times.
That puts you around about $1100 installed depending on shop rates and time.
FRED: I had the same thing you are talking about. I was ready to take it in for a rebuild. Even when the trans was hot it was a bear to get 2nd. I also had an aftermarket short shifter. The shop owner talked me into going with the WEVO (plus correct oil) and now it feels like a whole different trans. Still has some synchro trouble, but not to the point that I feel like I don't want to shift into 2nd.
What are you re-bushing if you are going to do this down the road in a couple months??? Why not put that toward the wevo if that's what you want!
Shifter: $595
Coupler: $195
Plus labor to install it which was not itemized on my bill so I don't know how many hours it took. I doubt more that 4 hours for a pro that has done this in the past a few times.
That puts you around about $1100 installed depending on shop rates and time.
FRED: I had the same thing you are talking about. I was ready to take it in for a rebuild. Even when the trans was hot it was a bear to get 2nd. I also had an aftermarket short shifter. The shop owner talked me into going with the WEVO (plus correct oil) and now it feels like a whole different trans. Still has some synchro trouble, but not to the point that I feel like I don't want to shift into 2nd.
What are you re-bushing if you are going to do this down the road in a couple months??? Why not put that toward the wevo if that's what you want!
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Fred H: Bad news, your 2nd gear complaint sounds like a bad synchro. If you drive it until it breaks the failed pieces might damage other internal parts that would normally be OK. If you get gear crunch/grind on all but the most careful, low rev shifts you should have it fixed. The typical synchro fix is to replace 1st & 2nd synchro rings, the 1/2 slider, the "dog" teeth as necessary and the operating parts for both synchros. While the trans is open it's a good idea to check the pinion shaft bearing race nearest the R&P (they get loose), and the other synchros. A lot of the inspection depends on mileage. I personally would return the car to its original shifter setup also.
Pete
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Thanks for the tips guys, much appreciated.
I need to ease myself into the 911 relatively slowly, so I don't go in way over my head & over the budget. I figure I have maybe another week left of driving before looking to put her away for most of the winter (the 911 just sat there & watched me throw out years of old car parts, engine blocks, and other junk I've collected over the past 5 years in my tiny little garage - she didn't even lift a tire to help clear space for her!), so little things I can do to start out will be good for me to get my feet wet on. With the new purchase, I also need to watch the budget - the car was a bit over what I was going to spend on one, but I figured with the lower mileage & good condition it would be worth it in the long run.
Once I drove the car for awhile on the trip home & the past couple of weeks, I was prepping myself for internal trans work, but listened to the PO & people online about other, less intrusive possibilities. If a bushing kit helps, fantastic. If not, it's not going to break the bank. A Wevo setup isn't "cheap" for me, but I want to do it right if that's the way to go. I did also get the original shifter with the car as well.
Steering wheel metal bushing (north-south steering wheel play) & shifter bushing kit's on the way in now, we'll see how that helps things out. I don't think I'd re-gear the 915 if she goes under the knife, as 2-3-4 seem pretty close together to me now. Clutch would be done at the same time at that point, so there's extra cost as well. For a rebuild with the modifications, I'm anticipating in the area of $2k-$3k in my head anyway. How reasonable is that for a figure?
And hey, if it's not trans-internal, that'd be funds set aside for next year's track time, or maybe even an exhaust & heat exchangers...
I need to ease myself into the 911 relatively slowly, so I don't go in way over my head & over the budget. I figure I have maybe another week left of driving before looking to put her away for most of the winter (the 911 just sat there & watched me throw out years of old car parts, engine blocks, and other junk I've collected over the past 5 years in my tiny little garage - she didn't even lift a tire to help clear space for her!), so little things I can do to start out will be good for me to get my feet wet on. With the new purchase, I also need to watch the budget - the car was a bit over what I was going to spend on one, but I figured with the lower mileage & good condition it would be worth it in the long run.
Once I drove the car for awhile on the trip home & the past couple of weeks, I was prepping myself for internal trans work, but listened to the PO & people online about other, less intrusive possibilities. If a bushing kit helps, fantastic. If not, it's not going to break the bank. A Wevo setup isn't "cheap" for me, but I want to do it right if that's the way to go. I did also get the original shifter with the car as well.
Steering wheel metal bushing (north-south steering wheel play) & shifter bushing kit's on the way in now, we'll see how that helps things out. I don't think I'd re-gear the 915 if she goes under the knife, as 2-3-4 seem pretty close together to me now. Clutch would be done at the same time at that point, so there's extra cost as well. For a rebuild with the modifications, I'm anticipating in the area of $2k-$3k in my head anyway. How reasonable is that for a figure?
And hey, if it's not trans-internal, that'd be funds set aside for next year's track time, or maybe even an exhaust & heat exchangers...
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#21
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84... $2,500 is probably gravity point for a complete 915 rebuild by a quality shop if the gearsets are not broken...add$$$ for broken stuff not subject to normal wear. It makes no sense to break it open and not do everything... just swallow hard and you'll never have to touch it for 10 years.
Once the box is out the clutch is not that bad...$500-600 or so depending on source... flywheel work, etc additional...also you can pull the linkage out and redo it while you are in there... that really matters.
This is also a good time to go over the engine... lots of seals and other rubber parts that deteriorate and are hard to get to.... worth spending another $500 or so to do all that.... you should be able to practically eliminate oil leaks, induction leaks etc.... plus look at the halfshafts, wheel bearings, etc, etc..... adds up, but it is best to do the whole deal at once and then you are set for a long time.
BTW... I have been driving my 84 Carrara with a weak 2nd gear synchro for years now... just can;t face the cost of a box rebuild... I always do the 1-2 shift carefully at low speed, and always double clutch my downshifts.... that seems to reduce the load on the synchros... the car has enough torque to start in 2nd in most cases, so I frequently do that to reduce wear on the synchro (you don;t have to slip the clutch much if you do this properly).... basically I treat 2nd as "high range 1st gear"
I still think if money is an issue (when isn;t it)... a redonce factory shift will work just fine, and you can put the WEVO money into doing the above work... much more important in the long run IMHO... but depends on what you want.
I make no guarantees... just my experience
Once the box is out the clutch is not that bad...$500-600 or so depending on source... flywheel work, etc additional...also you can pull the linkage out and redo it while you are in there... that really matters.
This is also a good time to go over the engine... lots of seals and other rubber parts that deteriorate and are hard to get to.... worth spending another $500 or so to do all that.... you should be able to practically eliminate oil leaks, induction leaks etc.... plus look at the halfshafts, wheel bearings, etc, etc..... adds up, but it is best to do the whole deal at once and then you are set for a long time.
BTW... I have been driving my 84 Carrara with a weak 2nd gear synchro for years now... just can;t face the cost of a box rebuild... I always do the 1-2 shift carefully at low speed, and always double clutch my downshifts.... that seems to reduce the load on the synchros... the car has enough torque to start in 2nd in most cases, so I frequently do that to reduce wear on the synchro (you don;t have to slip the clutch much if you do this properly).... basically I treat 2nd as "high range 1st gear"
I still think if money is an issue (when isn;t it)... a redonce factory shift will work just fine, and you can put the WEVO money into doing the above work... much more important in the long run IMHO... but depends on what you want.
I make no guarantees... just my experience