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New 911sc owner, any tips?

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Old 11-16-2004 | 08:34 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by redidrum
Thanks everyone,

I'm draining fluids as I write. Will let them drain for a few days to get a fresh start. Replacing Rotor cap, Dist. cap, Plugs, and Oil.

Does anyone know what the flapper is for on the K & N Air Filter setup? Do I need to oil it? It has been running rough and missing since I lowered the idle. Air/ Gas mix needs to be addressed next.

Bought the Haynes Manual, and the 101 Projects for your 911 books.

I want to add a chip soon. Need wheel spacers to install my Turbo Twist. I'll have the C-2 Cup Wheels for sale soon.

Thanks,

Ron

Ron
My two pence worth is replace the K&N with a stock flter , I'm not sure what you mean by 'flapper'. Also put Swepco 201 or 210 in the gearbox, can't recommend an engine oil because you have different makes over there but consider a 10-50 fully synthetic oil that's not too thin, although I'll probably get caned for advising that. Use ATE 'blue' brake fluid and fit stainless hoses.
Old 11-18-2004 | 12:18 AM
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Also it appears that your car does not have the front rubber lip spoiler-it is recommended to have either spoilers front and rear or none at all to keep the car aerodynamically balanced.

I too have an 82 (coupe) and I love it-but I made the mistake of driving a 930 Turbo and nothing seems the same anymore.....
Old 11-18-2004 | 04:02 AM
  #18  
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Good observation. I didn't even notice the spoiler was missing. Where can I find One? Where is the best place to get discounted parts? I don't like Pelican's website or prices.

Thanks,

Ron
Old 11-18-2004 | 12:48 PM
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Ron: A few thoughts... (1) Cancel your upcoming search for a "chip" - SCs don't have one! All that stuff started with the '84 Carrera. (2) I personally do not endorse "Stainless brake hoses". Most are not DOT approved, and there is nothing wrong with original equipment FACTORY hoses. Ate "Blue" is overkill for a street machine, Castrol LMA will fill your need nicely. (Yes, I used Kevlar hoses & Ate Blue in my PCA Club Racer, '81 SC coupe, but for the street there is no gain in longevity or performance.) (3) Much has been made of K&N filters. I replaced my stock filter with a K&N on my club racer and did not have a change in lap times at Willow Springs Raceway. Use your own judgment, if it's too much hassle to clean & oil, throw it away and put in an original paper element. (4) I do NOT use synthetic oil in my SCs. I use 20/50 Kendall GT-1. Good alternatives are Valvoline or Quaker State. (I don't want to mention names, but two of the most heavily advertised oils have lousy detergent properties - don't use them!) Kendall has been in all my cars (except my wife's V8 Touareg), including my SCCA E/P car and my PCA car, for the last 30 years +. I also use conventional gear oil (Kendall) in the trans. NEVER put synthetic gear oil in a 915 trans (used through '86), it is far too slippery and will affect shifting negatively (early synchros work on friction). I hope this info helps you, it will make your car more fun to own & drive. Also, be very selective about who you choose for valve adjustments and fuel mixture settings. Be bold and request to see their equipment (I used to love showing off ours!) - those two sevice items are the real key to a good driving experience.
Old 11-18-2004 | 02:15 PM
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Peter,

Great tips! I'll go with Kendall next time. Just fillled oil with Castrol GTX Hard Drive 10/40 last night. Will use the Kendall in the tranny. I haven't been sold on the synthetic oils yet. I've always used Castrol in my Motocross racing bikes, My 928s, My Corvette, and my Toyota rucks. Last Toyota Truck had 280,000 miles on it before seling it. Diving in deep this weekend. Got some good books lately. 101 Projects for your 911 and the Haynes manual. I'm trying to do too much at one time and I have no time! Putting the Turbo Twist on tonight!

Any tricks to draining and filling the tranny fluid with Kendall oil?

Thanks,

Ron
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Old 11-18-2004 | 04:07 PM
  #21  
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Do youself a HUGE favor, DO NOT drain the trans until you have loosened and removed the fill plug! I've seen them so overtightened that heavy duty removal techniques were needed - no fun at all! The fill plug is on the left side of the trans just to the rear of the throttle linkage bell crank. You'll need a 6-sided, 17mm allen wrench (or socket) to do the job. Filling will require a pump of some kind, I think Pep Boys has one that works OK...
Old 11-18-2004 | 05:45 PM
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I'd go with the 7 and 9 x 16 Fuchs wheels...your wheels look nice, but your can;t beat the look of the traditional Fuchs IMHO... and the 9 inch rears really fill out the wheel wells... nice how fast other people are spending your money for you...

Overheating can casue stud breakage... be very aware of the temps.... DO NOT let the car get over 250... My old 81 hit 300 Degress in a traffic jam...$$$$$ ... to this day I can;t figure out how that happened.... otherwise these are extremely reliable cars if all the maintenance is up to date.

Also the turbo tie rod ends are a must.... the cheapest improvement you can make I think...

Top seals can be fussy.... all targas leak a little bit, but if it gets annoying the seals are pricey to replace... jsut somthing to keep an eye on.

These are great cars... you will love it.
Old 11-19-2004 | 06:24 PM
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OK here's my chime in: hopefully the 'flapper' is a (also hopefully) correctly installed pop-off valve for when - not if - herr CIS backfires. On the synoil vs dino and K&N vs stock stuck, well opinions are like ......s everybody's got one. I have my preferences from 30 - oh-oh - umm, 40 years of racing. You do seem to be in a tad bit of a hurry - like the SC chip quest. Winter's coming, so take it easy and locate a decent used chin spoiler - might have a nick or two - and install it yourself. Better that than paying out the nose for a new one and having it become very used very quickly (besides, you'll need the practice if you over-lower her). I think I posted a while ago (as carefully as I have to in my position) most of the 'stainless steel Aeroquip-looking' brake lines on the market are crap. For street use and longevity stick with new OEM only - nobody (that matters) is going to look to see if you have bling brake hoses. Oh yeah - your Targa is going to leak. That's a given. And that vibrating thingy under the pass seat is normal. Mostly HAVE FUN! Oh, and when the back end comes around just remember: the structure and seats were designed for the crunch while going backwards. Ain't Porkchops grand!
All the best - and GOOD LUCK.
john
Old 11-20-2004 | 10:50 AM
  #24  
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No chip for the SC.....The best bang for the buck on the SC is exhaust. New injectors are
a good buy also. The most improvement I saw on my 83SC in order were
Exhaust, lowering, injectors, Factory SHift Kit with Swepco 201 tranny fluid and
new bushings. I also ran synthetic oil in mine with NO problems, I had
250,000 miles on the origional motor when I totaled the car last Christmas.
You'd be suprized how much different tires handle in cold weather !!!
I was !!!!!
Good Luck with the SC
Old 11-23-2004 | 11:24 PM
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Congrats on the purchase. I owned an '81 SC Targa for 14 years and currently race an '80 SC in PCA G class. These are wonderful cars.

In one of your posts, you said you wanted to 'add a chip'. These cars aren't controlled by a chip. The only electronics for the CIS system is an oxygen sensor feedback to a frequency valve.

If you want to improve the performance, replace the current heat exchangers with SSIs and add a sport muffler.

I'm not sure what you mean by the 'flapper'. If there is a round 'flapper' valve under the air filter, someone has installed a 'pop-off' valve.... this is a good thing. CIS cars (especially early ones) would occasionally back-fire through the intake upon startup. When this happened, it would 'blow' the airbox. The circuit was changed in '80 or '81 supposedly to eliminate this problem, but the pop-off valve is still a good idea.

The car looks great, hope you have a great time with it!
Old 11-23-2004 | 11:25 PM
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Sorry for duplicating some of the responses, I didn't read the second page of posts.
Old 11-24-2004 | 10:27 AM
  #27  
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Thanks Everyone,

I have my car dropped off at Bob Farmer's place in Greenfied, IN. He works on 911 and 930 cars for 34 years. He is dropping the car, doing some muffler upgrades, and timing it correctly. He suggested removing the Turbo Twist that barely fit on the car and put the Cup Wheels back on so we could lower it. He didn't like the spacers either. They were going to rub in high speed turns. I agreed. The car was set too high from the factory 82" to 84'. He also sold me a used front Spoiler Valance!!! That problem is solved too. I can see what everyone was talking about now. I am in a bit of a hurry. All the Fluids have been flushed. It is coming around nicely.

Turbo Twist won't fit ---! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

Thanks Again,

Ron
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Old 11-24-2004 | 02:52 PM
  #28  
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put new rubber brake hoses on & flush the old fluid.
Old 11-26-2004 | 05:02 PM
  #29  
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Clearly everyone has an opinion but based on twenty years of driving the same SC I found braking was improved after using ATE 'blue' fluid and DOT approved Goodridge stainless hoses, nothing to do with bling. I've used fully synthetic oil in the SC and there are no oil leaks even after 146,000 miles. My Targa doesn't leak either I think I should specialise in repairing Targa setups as there seem to be an awful lot of workshops out there who don't have a clue about making Targas water tight and claim they do. ALso my 'Turbo twist' wheels don't rub, they are 7" and 9.5" do you have the correct spacers on there? I t looks great with the 'twists' but the 'Cup 1s' if that's what you mean look great too. Good Luck with all the work.
Old 12-07-2004 | 07:09 PM
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Changed Frequency Valve and Relay, Lowered the car, Bad wiring to shorting headlight, Heater assist repaired, Driver's door window fixed and got creative with the Meow Exhaust! Car is very fast and smooth.

Thanks for all of the advice.

Ron
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