Shawn66

I was backing up today, held the hand brake as I was on a slight decent, released the hand brake, backed up about 5ft, then all of a sudden it just wouldn't go any further- turns out the front brakes are just fozen. When I try to go in forward or reverse the rear end rises up but the front is just locked. I can put the hand brake down but it must not be releasing.

Any feedback would be appreciated - I need to move it.

Shawn in AZ 88' 911 coupe

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Shawn:

First, the hand brake only affects the rear.

Jack the car up on one side and confirm that the front wheels are locked and the rears are free.

How many miles on your car?

Shawn66

good point, I will jack it up. I just gave it a visual inspection. The car has 69K but has been sitting around for the last 7 yrs, I just bought it and starting to drive it. I had a major service performed by a very good indpendent - he did replace the rear pads and adjusted the hand brake.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Cars sitting for that long creates MANY issues and some of them include swollen rubber brake lines and frozen brake caliper pistons.

I would begin by replacing the old rubber brake lines and flushing the system with new brake fluid. You still might need to rebuild the brake calipers as the pistons can freeze in their bores from corrosion.

rbcsaver

I agree with "issues" as a result of the car sitting for so long. Did your wrench only place new pads or do a caliper rebuild, change brake fluid out, etc? Could be a stuck caliper piston I would think that more than new pads would be in order after sitting for 7 years.

Not to hijack the thread, but others may benefit from Steve's opinion on this question.
Steve W., is there any benefit to changing the oem caliper pistons to the aftermarket stainless ones?I know that stainless can rust too. What is the expected life of the pistons before they should be swapped out for new. Is obvious pitting and corrosion the only indication for a change. Do you use silicon grease on the rubber boots when you rebuild? I have read "cons" about it attrcting dirt and grit, but that seems to happen on the rubber boots anyway.
regards,
Steve

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Rbcsaver:

There are no benefits from installing SS caliper pistons unless the original ones are pitted beyond use. Sometimes, the bores are just as pitted from corrosion so I think its a waste of money.

If people would only flush their brakes every year with good fluid, these problems would never occur,....... Its FAR cheaper than buying brake parts.

I've seen caliper pistons last 40 years and I've seen them corroded beyond use in just a few. Its all about what kind of preventative maintenance the car received (like so many other things). One simply cannot say for sure how that they are supposed to last as its all in the hands of the owners,....

Physical inspection reveals the need for replacement in cases like these.

I use no silicone grease on any brake parts; I only use clean, fresh brake fluid.

rbcsaver

Steve,
As you know many of us change our brake fluid once or even twice a year, but unfortunately, for our older cars, we usually don't know whow often the prior owners changed it.

I was referring to silicon grease on the rubber seals and piston interface. Surely you don't put brake fluid there.
regards and thanks for the advice,
Steve

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

LOL,..You are surely right about not knowing how these cars were maintained before and honestly, not many folks do that part right due to cost.

When I reassemble a caliper, I only use clean brake fluid to lubricate everything to ease that process.

rbcsaver

Steve,
Thank you again for your (earned) valued and respected opinions.
And thank you for your help with my 84 ride height/alignment problems this past year.
Shawn66, how did you make out with your problem?
regards,
Steve

smshirk

I found this post from several years ago that mirrors my 80 Weissach. The last time I drove it, about 3 months ago, the brakes weren't locked, but thinking back, something was wrong that I didn't look into. I just drover around for a few minutes and did notice the front wheels were unusually hot. I should have done something then, but didn't. Friday night, it was all I could do to move into the garage. I have it jacked up and it looks like i may have both issues Steve mentions.

Is there anything temporary I can do to make it safe to drive about 10 miles to my indy? I think I'll shred the rotors or worse if I drive it like they are now. I don't believe I can rebuild the calipers myself and they look so rusty I'm not sure they can be salvaged.

I need to keep the original color matching 15 inch wheels, what calipers you would recommend for replacing the stock calipers, assuming I need to do that.

smshirk

I got one loose, but not the other one. No help????

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

If it were me, I would have the car flat-bed towed to your shop and not risk further damage by driving it.

You will need to rebuild or replace the calipers and rubber brake lines. Those are A calipers up front & M calipers in back.

porsche930dude

My parking brake was stuck once and just tapped the plungers on the backing plates that actuate the brakes and they got unstuck. Im not sure how there setup on an 88 though

Sailmed

+1
Saving 1 rotor pays for the flat bed!
The only alternative is rebuilding the calipers where you are!

Quicker then you free up the calipers and say "it's just a couple miles, I'll just use the handbrake".....
Some jerk will pull out in front of you, forcing you to hit the brakes, and then the flatbed is picking you up in traffic....
Don't ask how I know

ked

I have seen cases of 911s in long storage wherein the e-brake mechanism (@ the wheel) failed & locked. In one example the shoe lining had seperated, broken & jammed. My conjecture is that leaving a car sitting for considerable time w/ the e-brake on real tight is not particularly good for the system's operation, years further down the road.