Can this mod be DIY, what degree of difficulty, let say a break job is easy and be # 1 how hard compare to mod this ?

What about GHL muffler, does cat bypass needed too

Thanks

 

Thanks for the tip Steve

 

I've had the SSI and Dansk dual in/dual out on my '87 Carrera for some time now. The SSI's are terrific. I like the Dansk muffler too, very free flowing, but it is a tad loud for some tastes (wife says she can hear me coming from 1/4 mile away - no more sneaking in late at night).

I also had a very good experience dealing with the Dansk U.S. representative on a quality issue. After confirming a flange failure was not the result of an on track incident or other abuse, I received a new muffler, free of charge. I don't know of too many other companies that would do that with after-market, high performance products. Very honorable in my opinion.

In any event, I do have a used Dansk dual in/dual out muffler that I can sell you if you're interested. The muffler bolts right up to the SSI's, but you will have to modify your right rear valance (snip, snip) to allow for the right side tail pipe.

I also agree with Steve & Bill about Monty mufflers. Expensive, but as Steve points out, you get what you pay for.

Richard
'87 Carrera (RS) 3.6L widebody conversion

 

SSI's are more effective on the 3.0L and earlier engines than on the 3.2L engines, as the piping is starting to get on the smallish side for 3.2L engines. There's still a benefit for the 3.2L engines, just not as great as on the earlier engines.

Installing SSI's means removing your catalytic converter, and getting a new muffler with dual inputs, to hook up to the SSI's. SSI's are the stainless equivalent to Porsche's earlier headers, well before catalytic converters came on the scene. You also need to change two oil lines to earlier lines.

Here's an article I posted on tech.rennlist.com (a good source of information, btw) on a 911 SC install:

When you switch over to the SSI’s, first thing to do is remove the existing muffler, cat, and heat exchangers. I was fortunate that none of the exhaust studs broke – one came out with a rusted nut, which was replaced with a new stud. Breaking an exhaust stud is not the end of the world, however, it can create unpleasant complications for you. When you order the SSI exchangers for an SC, make sure you order the ones that have the oxygen sensor port on the left heat exchanger. The SSI’s were drop shipped from the manufacturer, and were well packed. You also have to replace two oil lines with older-style lines.

First, remove the right rear wheel. If your SC hasn’t been lowered, you can probably do the engine operation without raising the rear, although it’s certainly easier if you do. Next, drain all the oil. Then if you look in your right rear wheel well, on your right you’ll see two oil lines coming out of the thermostat back towards the engine (the other two disappear towards the front cooler). Of course the one you want to get off is the line in back, so remove the nut on the lower line, to get at the nut in back. Have some newspaper on the floor or a pan underneath, as some oil will come out of the lines. If you follow the line you want to remove, it goes around the back of the engine and then back forward on the other side of the engine to the front of the engine. Remove the nut there, and voila, the long line is disconnected. Try not to make a mess as you pull it out from under the car - it will still have oil in it. At that point, you
have two replacement lines, one which is all metal with a curve in it and one that has a metal line and rubber hose. Hook up the all metal line at the left front of the engine, and there is a bolt at the other end by the wheel well that is used to cinch the metal line to the chassis. Then attach the rubber end of the other line to the all metal oil line, and the longer metal line part then attaches to the thermostat. Hook up the lower thermostat hose, and you’re done with the oil line portion. Refill/change your oil.

Next, hook up the SSI’s. You’ll note that on both sides of the engine, towards the front on the bottom there is part of the engine that has a small bolt which has nothing attached to it. Take both bolts out. If you trial fit the heat exchanger, you’ll see that the bolt is there to help cinch down the heat exchanger to the engine. It helps to do that before bolting in the exchangers and wondering why they don’t quite fit. Put your new exhaust gaskets on, lift one side up, and bolt it in. It helps, by the way, to have a long 8mm Hex socket, which goes thru the holes in the heat exchanger to access some of the exhaust nuts. There is a nifty tool that comes with the SSI’s to help put bolts on. Be smart and use it to take the old exchangers off too.

OK, so now you’ve bolted up both exchangers, you’ve put the 2 little 10mm bolts next to the engine block back in, and now you’re putting the muffler on. This is pretty straight forward. Remember there is a gasket between each heat exchanger outlet and each muffler inlet. Reuse/replace the stainless steel straps off the old muffler. You can either reuse the old O2 sensor or replace it with a new one. I found the wire too short so I soldered on an extension.

 

My '78 euro 3.0/3.2 with SSI's and sport muffler passes NJ emmisions. It also passed the "visual" since no one seemed to be too familiar with the system in general.

 

I agree. To an untrained eye, the SSI's w/ sport muffler can look very stock. The missing "cat" is the tip-off for the inspectors.

Richard

 

I have SSI and Dansk 2-in 1-out on my 71 with 3.0 and .2 liter upgraded p/c's. I have seen Monty's and they look and sound great. For the price, I have been happy with the Dansk. One thing I did for fun was have the tip cut off and a 3" tip welded on with a 45 degree down angle. That look with the aggressive sound always prompts the "what have you got in there?" question since the car looks mostly stock.

Vol