Ok,
Putting mooooooooore money in the car. Going to put the pop off valve on for the air box, steel braided brake lines, new carpet, and other misc stuff. My brakes currently squeek and stick so I am going to replace the lines which I was told are probably collapsing causing them to stick. What can I do about the squeek? Replace the pads. Has anyone used the Ferodo brake pads? Also I was thinking about turbo tie rods? Are they really worth the money? Are they easy to install?

I was told I should definetely upgrade my chain tensioners. I was told $800 to do the job. Is this high?

Also my rear passenger side shock squeeks and it sounds like the cover is clanging around. Can I do anything to fix this our do they have to be replaced. Do you have to drop the motor (on an sc) to change the shocks. (seems awful tight.)


One last question. How can I tell if my 74 chasis is a S or not? They have green shocks (I was told means something).

 

Also should I go with stock carpet or RS. It is kinda going to be a track car. The RS carpet on ebay is about $300 could I take my old carpet into a shop and have pieces made for less? anyone done this before? thanks
jake

 

If your 74 is an "S" the 5th digit in the VIN# will be a three.

$800 to install chain tensioners sounds very reasonable

Porsche brakes are meant to stop and squeaks could be all sorts of things, I like braided lines as I like the pedal feel being a little stiffer, and A couple of guys I know have had good luck with Ferodo pads, however I prefer Mintex C tec myself (squeak a little when cold but who cares if the are damn near fade proof)

as far as the turbo tie rods, good upgrade if you are planing on hard driving or yours are already worn out and need replacing its a good upgrade. Install is easy if your mechanicaly inclined, but you'll need an alignment afterwards.

Bilstiens are green and are sport dampners

As far as the carpet, I cant help you too much there, someone else done their carpet?

 

It looks like the car is an s then. So would these mean I have aluminum calipers?

 

anyone else?

 

Jake,

Rubber lines should be replaced every 10 years or so. Unless you're going to regularly inspect braided lines, I'd suggest replacing with factory lines. They work well and are a very low maintenance item.

Brake pads, depending how you use your car, for non-track usage factory pads work well. Axxis or Axxis Metalmasters are inexpensive and work OK on the street. Step up might be Performance Friction 'Z' rated pads, amongst others.

Chain tensioners - $800 is good. Parts are around $450, and that again for labor, roughly.

Turbo tie rods are an excellent upgrade. I found they made a tremendous difference in steering control....when the wheel turns, there is immediate reaction from the front end.

You don't have to drop the engine to change the shocks. A partial engine drop, however, aids access to the upper shock bolts. There's an article by Walt Fricke on tech.rennlist.com under 911 engines detailing how to do a partial engine drop. Sounds scary, but once you learn how to do it, it takes just a few minutes, and gives you access to the rear of the engine.

 

Good advice from Bill,........

I'd only amend the recommendation about Axxis & Metalmaster brake pads. IMHO, there are FAR FAR better choices in the world such as Ferodo 3410, Ferodo DS 2500, Pagid Sport Blue, Mintex, etc.

I cannot begin to tell you how many Metalmaster pads I've removed and replaced with pads that actually stop the car over the past 5+ years,....

 

Do the pop-off yourself - just get a hole saw and right-angle drill drive. Pads are a black art and try what you think will work for your driving. Since the Porsche brakes are fabuloso 3/4 of the battle is already over. I do agree on the stock rubber hoses unless you are really tracking the car a LOT. I did the carpet (great time to find rust in the rear seat buckets - ugh) and went with the appbiz kits - beware of carpet glue fumes for sure. It's your choice on removing 20lbs of ancient insulation in the back 'seats' area. I've also removed the sh*&^&y a/c, radio, aux heater parts, and cruise and am darn glad I did. My car already had the tensioners, head studs, etc when I got her. Add the front strut brace, lower the front and go drivin'. How old are the tyres that are on it now? Over 3 - replace them. Just one caveat: your car is 30 years old and so many things may have been replaced already - like the shocks - do an inventory of what's what before you dive into the deep end.
Have fun!!
john

 

The only thing that makes me think my shocks need to be replaced is the fact that the things squeek?

John, what did you pay for your appbiz carpet kit? Has anyone here done a headliner themselves?

It sounds like I should do the turbo tie rods.

I am starting to get to the point where I will have more money in the car then it is probably worth but it will be bitichin (or pretty close).

 

Jake the squeaks are probably from the bushings, not the shocks. I vote for the Turbo tie rods. As I understand it, they are not all created equal, so this might not be a place to save 10 bucks. Perhaps Steve can chime in on this?

I am interested in the comments on the SS brake lines. Are they less durable and require more inspection than OE rubber?

Jake if you read up on the chain tens, you should be able to do it yourself and save some $$$. Wayne Dempsy's books (911 re-build and 101 projects are excellent)

Re: going under water on the car...yep welcome to the club...but it's fun, no?

 

You should be able to locate the squeak - it's a 2-person job: one heavy enough to make the car bounce and the other to listen real close.
Definately go Turbo tie rods.
Stock rubber hoses last for years and you can visually check them at any time. SS wrapped are pretty, but racers change them every season simply because you cant see if anything has gone wrong internally.
appbiz carpet kits are constantly on eBay pick the set(s) you want from a bunch of choices; or, I've heard of folks simply buying the material they want and having at it. Carpets are for sure a DIY.
I have a crappy headliner and I have a fresh one and all the parts ready, but after 101 and checking out the install, my cajones are too small to attempt it. I'll save up to have someone else take out all the windows and fight with it. (I'm sure there have been DIYs accomplished).
Read up on the tens before you try it. I wouldn't do it meself.
Underwater - NO S&^T!! At least I didn't pay a premium to start with and I've done most everything (long list from headlights thru to taillights and EVERYthing in between) myself as I had time, space, and tools. But still I could never get out what I've got in. Besides who'd want a car with no a/c or radio (but a roll bar & belts/harnesses).
I also couldn't have stood for having a newer car that I couldn't work on.
FWIW, those latex or whatever gloves are real homelife savers. ;-)
john

 

I wasnt afraid of doing the tensioners myself until a mechanic told me a definetely should not do them because I could screw up the whole engine but then again he said I shouldnt do anything myself so. I am still only 17 now but me and my dad have rebuilt motorcyle engines and stuff so I have a general sense for mechanics, but I am still kinda freaked out about making a 10000 error. Have any of you guys done it yourself.

The reason I am changing the brake lines is because they are causing my brakes to stick therefore applying uneven pressure on the front brakes which gives the car a real uneasy feeling. Has anyone experienced this before? It feels like the car pulls to one side then the other.

Well I think it would be easy enough to make my own carpet set. Shoot all I have to do is buy a roll and place the old on top and cut out and have mom seem it. Any suggestions on where to buy it at?

I know this is off the subject but do you guys get a lot of people on the street wanting to race you when your in your p car. I had two mustang GT's and rice wanta go yesterday going to the Gym. I just laugh.

 

Oh yea,

I did locate the squeek it is the rear passenger side shock and it is the outer cover that is making a ding sound on the shock when compressed. Is there anything I can do about this?

 

This type of behavior is common. Good for you to just laugh them off. They aren't worth wasting the clutch lining...

 

What really irritates me is that they know all they can do is run in a straight line (well. most of them) they don't try in the corners. Well there was that one guy years ago that tried to keep up to me on an offramp. He lifted and made lots of smoke and dust. Surprise!

Regarding the tens, the only really tricky part is to make sure you keep the chains tensioned while you change out the tensioners to prevent it jumping a link. Mostly a vice grip kind of technology. I'm sure if you read up on it, your dad and you can do it no problem. Remember to check to see if you have the upgraded idler sprocket carrier, if not, budget for it too "while you're in there".

Also do a visual on the ramps and make sure the newer coloured ones are where they belong.

Hope this helps