need advice
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 3
From: Land of Milfs and honey (SoCal)
Originally Posted by DGaunt
What really irritates me is that they know all they can do is run in a straight line (well. most of them) they don't try in the corners. Well there was that one guy years ago that tried to keep up to me on an offramp. He lifted and made lots of smoke and dust. Surprise!
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
the only time i mess with ricers is when there jail bait girl friends are in the pass. seat so I can embarass them!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: california
It all depends on the mood I guess, but ricers are pretty hard to turn down especially when there is a passenger. It is pretty sad though when a one or two year old car is totalled trying to keep up with ancient porsches. About three months ago a kid from school was killed in his hopped up mustang from going to fast in an S turn I can hit all day long. Some cars just should never be made fast, they just werent designed for it no matter what mods are made.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 801
Likes: 6
From: United Kingdom
OK - here's some controversial stuff!
Unless you are going to lower the suspenion don't waste your money on the Turbo tie rods - the problem with the standard rods is that they don't like it when the angle is too drastic - you really won't notice the difference with a standard suspension set up and normal driving.
Personally I'd go with the standard Porsche flexible brake hoses - the problem with the braided type is that you can't see what's going on underneath and you can't squeeze them off if you need to work on a caliper. They were designed for racing where the 'stamp-on' technique is required time after time; I defy anyone to drive a road car with new braided and new rubber and tell the difference - can you really believe Porsche would provide a product that gives soft brakes? Sorry guys pull the other one.
If the brakes are squeeling and sticking it could be the system need a really good flush through and the calipers require refurb kits (new rubbers) - when you remove the pistons have a good look at the bore and piston - any sign of scoring or rust (on pistons) replace the calipers - you can buy new pistons but this seems like half-way house to me. By now, if they have not already been replaced, a new set of brake pipes would seem in order - I would go all the way and fit a new master cylinder then you can forget the brakes for the next ten years - just change the fluid regularly.
Chain tensioners are a must - I wouldn't drive the car until that was done. Can be done with engine in situe but not easy - great care required to ensure nothing gets out of line. While your there replace the slippers and chain - then again you can forget about it.
Just my 2 cents but I've been there, done that and got the bruises and scratches to proof it!
PJC
Unless you are going to lower the suspenion don't waste your money on the Turbo tie rods - the problem with the standard rods is that they don't like it when the angle is too drastic - you really won't notice the difference with a standard suspension set up and normal driving.
Personally I'd go with the standard Porsche flexible brake hoses - the problem with the braided type is that you can't see what's going on underneath and you can't squeeze them off if you need to work on a caliper. They were designed for racing where the 'stamp-on' technique is required time after time; I defy anyone to drive a road car with new braided and new rubber and tell the difference - can you really believe Porsche would provide a product that gives soft brakes? Sorry guys pull the other one.
If the brakes are squeeling and sticking it could be the system need a really good flush through and the calipers require refurb kits (new rubbers) - when you remove the pistons have a good look at the bore and piston - any sign of scoring or rust (on pistons) replace the calipers - you can buy new pistons but this seems like half-way house to me. By now, if they have not already been replaced, a new set of brake pipes would seem in order - I would go all the way and fit a new master cylinder then you can forget the brakes for the next ten years - just change the fluid regularly.
Chain tensioners are a must - I wouldn't drive the car until that was done. Can be done with engine in situe but not easy - great care required to ensure nothing gets out of line. While your there replace the slippers and chain - then again you can forget about it.
Just my 2 cents but I've been there, done that and got the bruises and scratches to proof it!
PJC
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 3
From: Land of Milfs and honey (SoCal)
intersting counter point. I have braided lines on my GTI and they feel a little frimer to me, then again different results for different cars I suppose. Your right though about the tie rods IMO
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 801
Likes: 6
From: United Kingdom
Jake,
Have to confess I didn't - I'd only had the car a couple of weeks (16 year ago!) and wasn't prepared to take the risk or driving it without the job done - watched it done tho' and seen others do it since - pretty good clues to 'how to' in Haynes manual, also in 'How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 engines 1965 - 1989' by Wayne Dempsey. All the other work mentioned I have done. Would certainly do it now after years of playing with car.
PJC
Have to confess I didn't - I'd only had the car a couple of weeks (16 year ago!) and wasn't prepared to take the risk or driving it without the job done - watched it done tho' and seen others do it since - pretty good clues to 'how to' in Haynes manual, also in 'How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 engines 1965 - 1989' by Wayne Dempsey. All the other work mentioned I have done. Would certainly do it now after years of playing with car.
PJC
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 128
Likes: 1
From: Flagler Beach
Hi, all.
FWIW: Since this thread did - once upon a time 8-) - include my remarks on braided vs stock brake lines, I went downtown and asked some questions. There is a definate problem with braided brake lines on the market today. When all the rice burners decided they just HAD to have them, the market has since been flooded with ummm "less-than-adequate" products - including ones stamped "DOT". At the moment only one brand (from Sweden) passes the new NHTSA "whip test". Even lines from a US manufacturer I highly respect cannot pass this test. Failure is at the junction between coupler and line (I saw a failed sample item today). The only acceptable ones have a 3 or so inch long rubber coating over this area and a nylon coating over the entire line.
Caveat emptor
john
FWIW: Since this thread did - once upon a time 8-) - include my remarks on braided vs stock brake lines, I went downtown and asked some questions. There is a definate problem with braided brake lines on the market today. When all the rice burners decided they just HAD to have them, the market has since been flooded with ummm "less-than-adequate" products - including ones stamped "DOT". At the moment only one brand (from Sweden) passes the new NHTSA "whip test". Even lines from a US manufacturer I highly respect cannot pass this test. Failure is at the junction between coupler and line (I saw a failed sample item today). The only acceptable ones have a 3 or so inch long rubber coating over this area and a nylon coating over the entire line.
Caveat emptor
john
Anti-Cupholder League
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,933
Likes: 118
I agree re the rubber lines - the steel briaded ones cannot be checked for softening, besides the other issue above.
I think that if your tie-rods are worn, you will feel a difference with new ones, and they might as well be the turbo ones. I suspect a high mileage car will have worn tie rods....
I think that if your tie-rods are worn, you will feel a difference with new ones, and they might as well be the turbo ones. I suspect a high mileage car will have worn tie rods....
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,001
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From: Sunny Oregon
Originally Posted by randywebb
I agree re the rubber lines - the steel briaded ones cannot be checked for softening, besides the other issue above.
I think that if your tie-rods are worn, you will feel a difference with new ones, and they might as well be the turbo ones. I suspect a high mileage car will have worn tie rods....
I think that if your tie-rods are worn, you will feel a difference with new ones, and they might as well be the turbo ones. I suspect a high mileage car will have worn tie rods....
About two years ago my mechanic noted that my tie rods were oddly twisted and needed replacement. I asked him what type he would replace them with. He told me that he would ue the Turbos since they cost about the same as the non-turbos ($20 difference) and they definately would be a steering improvement.
If you need to replace your tie rods, go with the turbos. If not, put your money elsewhere.
My $0.02
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From: SW Ontario canada
FxnPrsh:
I didnt race the Mustang, I just did my thing and he followed. I didn't tempt him, jockey with him or get into anything with him. I exited the highway and so did he. I turned sucessfully; he didn't.
Re: SS brake lines: I definatly noticed a difference, but then this was 10 years ago and the lines I replaced were probably OE and very tired. Changing out a new-ish OE set might not be as impressive, I dunno.
Tensioners: Jake, just do not let the chains jump and hand turn the engine when you're done to make sure before you start it. Don't be afraid of it, just be careful. Oh, and hydraulic tens can collapse too, but rarely. Belt and suspender types install the fail-safe collars on the hydraulics too.
I didnt race the Mustang, I just did my thing and he followed. I didn't tempt him, jockey with him or get into anything with him. I exited the highway and so did he. I turned sucessfully; he didn't.
Re: SS brake lines: I definatly noticed a difference, but then this was 10 years ago and the lines I replaced were probably OE and very tired. Changing out a new-ish OE set might not be as impressive, I dunno.
Tensioners: Jake, just do not let the chains jump and hand turn the engine when you're done to make sure before you start it. Don't be afraid of it, just be careful. Oh, and hydraulic tens can collapse too, but rarely. Belt and suspender types install the fail-safe collars on the hydraulics too.
