I realize this subject has been covered ad nauseam, however I've yet to find an answer to what I'm dealing with that works. To get this out of the way - Yes I would've preferred a two post lift, but our garage is too short to take one and not high enough, so I don't have much else in terms of options.

The issue is positioning the blocks in such a way that doesn't result in the frame of the jack hitting the swaybar mounts in the rear, press on the pan in the front driver side, and sits cleanly with enough contact on the pinch weld blocks. I've read the other threads on this subject and none of them seemed to resolve this .

I tried two options in the rear. The first, shown below, uses a standard tall block to rest against the pan below the torsion bars. I gather this isn't the correct way of doing it from other posts, but it's the only way that seems to get enough contact to be safe. The problem is I still can't entirely get full or centered contact on the block, because the swaybar mount hits the frame as it lifts if I move it further back, even with the larger block, and it causes alignment problems with the pinch weld in the front. I could stack another block there to prevent contact with the swaybar mount, but there isn't enough room due to the height of the car. So this is the only way using this method, but it's pressing on one half of the block and it isn't centering the weight on the block.

So the second option is the pinch weld block, which I'd prefer to use, but I can't get even half contact with it in place (no that dent in the pan isn't from me, a prior owner didn't know where to use the jack and there are several of them). The issue with the below being that as I lift the car, it's only making contact with around 30-40% of the block due to the angle. I can't move it elsewhere due to the previous issues, it hits the swaybar mount or causes problems with the front:

So it would make sense to position the one above further inboard to provide more surface contact, which is possible, but then I run into a problem in the front on the driver side shown below:

If I'm trying to keep it truly parallel and even per the instructions, then moving it inward more aft means the forward portion won't seat into the pinch weld on the driver side due to the indentions in the pan. It has to be further out to seat properly into the block.

This isn't as much of an issue on the passenger side, it appears the driver side isn't 1:1 mirrored with the passenger side pan, but those indentions in the pan keep it from working and staying parallel with the car in the front. It seems like every time I fix one end of it, the other end doesn't work and I've been chasing my tail with it.

Has anyone figured this out without using multiple stacks of blocks or wood? It lifts my 996 up fine, but the car I really need it to work on is the SC.

Thanks.

 

I think part of the problem with the other threads on QJ use is that most of them provide solutions for the 5000SLX, which is shorter than the 7000. I hate stacking blocks - it makes me very uncomfortable if I'm going to get under there.

I'm assuming you are set up the standard way - hoses facing forward, and the QJ frames on the inside of the tires (with the 7000 I know there is no way to fit it between the tires, can't really do it with the 5000 either).

What if you dispensed with the pinch weld blocks, and just use the standard rubber blocks on the pinch welds? I have done it that way, and the pinch welds did not collapse. The older QJs didn't have pinch weld blocks, so I bought slotted pucks, like these: . Those may work better for you if you want to try to protect the pinch welds. I have not used them yet though.

Is part of your problem also that you are trying to keep the QJ frames absolutely parallel? I have gone with a slight angle, and when rocking the car while it was in the air, it seemed solid and I was comfortable getting underneath. You'll have to make your own decision with respect to how much of an angle is OK.

Your other option would be to set the frames perpendicular to the car, and try to lift along the sides of the car somewhere. Not sure that will work with the longer 7000 QJ though.

Mark

 

Thanks for the info. I may try those jack pads, their smaller profile might help with some of the issues.

It's good to know I'm not crazy, I've read a ton of threads on this and couldn't seem to figure out why I was having this issue and most seemed to make it work fairly easily. I assumed the 7000TL and 5000SLX were the same dimensions but it does look like the 5000 is slightly shorter, which would be just enough to prevent issues with the swaybar mount.

I am trying to keep them perfectly parallel, I will discuss the angled approach with Quickjack if I can get them on the phone. I already have to talk to them b/c the release cam on one of the lifts fell off in transit, so hopefully they can provide some suggestions.

 

There are a few places in the manual where it says the frames must be parallel. But if you keep reading you'll find one instance where they say "within two inches". So you can have a slight angle. I wouldn't go six inches, but a couple inches is OK.

Mark

 

I have the 7000 lbs lifts and an 84 Cab (no factory lift points) and I concur with using the pinch welds with the standard blocks. I also agree there is not need to make the lifts pararell - the lifts aren't moving forward or backwards. Cheers

 

Thanks folks.

I used the standard, non pinch weld blocks and they worked great. I was hesitant to do it because of another post I saw where the pinch weld split the block, but I guess I'll just have to keep an eye on it. I did get one too close to the swaybar mount and tore a small chunk out, but that's on me. It seemed stable and didn't seem to do anything to the pinch weld, I'll just have to watch out for it. I'll see if QJ has any recommendations also.

 

I have had one of my other cars split a rubber block, so it is possible. They don't cleave in half and fall over though.

I have made some wooden blocks out of 2x12 lumber to get a few more inches of lift. What you can barely see in this photo is that there is another piece of wood screwed to the underside of the wooden blocks that is seated in the QJ frame tray. They can't slide off.




Mark

 

As others have stated the 7000 is longer than the 5000 and does not work well with older Porsches due to their shorter wheelbase. I have a 72 911 and a 2014. My 5000 works for both but is a very tight fit on the 72.

Positioning a quickjack in exactly the right position is a real pain when an inch or two maters. I've found a company that makes caster wheels for the quickjack. They sell through ETSY so just go on their website and search for quickjack wheels. They work quite well and make it so much easier to push the quickjack around while you are under the car looking for a pinch weld.

Not having the pair 100% parallel is not that big a deal but with an early 911 you want to get the jacks positioned as close to the rear sway bar as possible. The majority of the weight is in the back of the car. I've not been concerned with side to side stability but the car flipping backwards has given me pause. If I'm changing the oil, I just make sure I have a full tank of gas to put more weight up front. When I replaced the front suspension I put a jack under the engine to make sure it could never rock back wards as I took weight off the front of the car. Just saying.

 

Thanks, that makes sense about weight in the rear. I hadn't considered that and I was planning on removing the front wheels soon-ish to do some work, so that's a good thought about weight. I was planning on positioning some jack stands under the car just to be safe anyway, but filling the tank and putting some more reinforcement to prevent that would be a good idea.

 

Good points on the tipping. I think it is pretty secure, but I like your idea of a jack to make sure.

Those QJ wheels on Esty are nice, but pricey! Here is a DIY option: . Uses rollers purchased at Harbor Freight. I bought the rollers a while ago but haven't installed them yet.

Mark

 

I have a 79 930, 87 911 and 99 996, and they all lift a little different. I ended up lifting the 87 sideways because the I couldn't find parallel points in the lengthwise orientation. It works fine.

I have the HF hack for rollers...it's nice! I also had a welder buddy make me a set of the screw jacks also found on this site. They REALLY help.

godspeed.

 

This is what I do, lift my '89 Cab sideways. It works well as long as the QJ itself isn't blocking anything that I need access to.

 

Well i just took the plunge and bought a QJ 5000TL for my Sc and my sons boxster as he wants me to do IMSB.

any tips for a newbie with this system ? I have read this thread with lots of reference to pinch Welds but from what i have seen historically pinch welds have never been discussed as a jack point or axle stand point on this car ..

Guess i need to buy some additional blocks ?? from what i have seen here pinch welds are okay to lift by but need rubber blocks ??

 

do you lift by the pinch welds this way and use aforementioned rubber blocks ?

 

Doesn't the QJ come with rubber blocks? You could use those, or buy pinch weld pucks like I linked to above, and just sit those on the QJ blocks.

There have been some extensive threads on Pelican that will help. This is a good one: https://forums.pelicanparts.com/pors...2-981-a-2.html
And maybe this one will also help: https://forums.pelicanparts.com/pors...ft-points.html
And this one: https://forums.pelicanparts.com/pors...user-woes.html

If you are working in tight quarters, the other important thing to keep in mind is that the car doesn't go straight up. It moves in the direction of the lift about 6-12 inches. So if you are going the perpendicular route, I don't think that will work in a small one-car garage.

Pelican has a video too: https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog...NPNttdKpY8hExf

Mark