Glas482

Hello all, started out looking at used Boxsters but with buying a farm and building a new house have decided a vintage 911 would be more logical at this time. Have heard a few good things about the 68 to 73 911's and the 2.4 engine. Saw a couple of 72/73 on Ebay that looked nice for an Ok price. I know rust is always a big concen in the floor pans and trunk and battery boxes but what about reliability and workability of these. May want to beef it up a bit in the future for some track fun. Any comments on this era 911 and the 72/73 in paticular. Thanks

GrantG

These are fantastic cars IF you get a good one. Otherwise, it can be expensive and painful. Have any prospective car thoroughly inspected by an expert in the early 911's - not just a generic Porsche shop or dealer.

72targa

Most of the recent eBay examples have been garbage. Get to know the car and its associated repair costs before you buy one. It's like anything else, buy the car in the best shape you can afford. That $8,000 car that needs the $15,000 engine rebuild may look nice but it's probably not the smart choice. Now, if you have a really good friend that rebuilds Porsches...

Doug&Julie

If you can (and haven't) see if you can find examples to drive. The motors came in three different "injections" if you will; carb, MFI, and midway through '73 the CIS. The CIS is the closest to driving a true fuel injected car. The MFI, when working well, is a sweet motor. But they're tempermental to temperature changes and it helps to be truly knowledgeable on them. (...this is partly why my '72 is now a "project"...I sold my MFI motor and plan to replace it with a 3.0 CIS or 3.2 EFI from a later car). I've not driven the carb'd models so I can't comment much on those.

Otherwise the cars are a blast. Just be SURE to find a good example. That just can't be overstated enough!

SandyI

The 72-73 2.4 911S are great. But you should drive a 2.0, a 2.2 as well. Get behind the wheel of a short wheelbase ('65-'68) also.

Visit the early 911S registry site. Plenty of opinions and a good resource for quality used cars for sale.

Lastly, DO NOT buy an early 911, on Ebay or otherwise, without personally inspecting it, driving it, and then taking the car to a Porsche mechanic (and this is key) who knows these early cars for an extensive PrePurchase Inspection.

Good luck with your search and know it could take a while. I found mine after 9 months and my search wasn't considered to be a long one.

Things to look out for? 1.) Rust, 2.) Rust, and lastly, 3.) Rust.

72targa

This auction generated a lot of discussion. Here was one analysis:

I quote:
This is true restoration project needing about $35,000-$40,000 thrown at it.

1- Complete stripping of body and interior including trim replacement or refurbishment ($3-$4,000)
2- Rebuiding the engine with the CORRECT parts ($15,000)
3- Find the correct parts (*MFI*) ($4000)
4- There's rust in there somewhere
4b- Fix the rust
5- New interior (EVERYTHING) ($4,500 including labor)
(It appears to have been in very bad knife fight with no clear winner but at least the blood is not readliy apparent)
6- Refinish wheels ($500+)
7- Rebuild the suspension ($1,500+ on the cheap)
8- Tires (+/- $800 but Kumhos are on sale for $45 each!)
9- Paint the car ($5-$7,500) Earl Schieb, slightly less
10- Assemble the car after the painting

ebsalem

Okay, here's my take as the owner of a '72:

There was some rust in the passenger headlight bucket. but nothing to write home about.

The engine need a complete rebuild, which I did myself, for $5k inlcuding the conversion to a 2.7.

It took three years to find a tub as rust free as this one, and after searching all over the nation the car was found in the garage of a home within a block of my home in Omaha, Nebraska.

I've had the car for 6 or 7 years now and would do it all over again, BUT, make sure you get something with little or any tub rust. I do drive the call all over the midwest and haven't had and issue worth talking about.

Good Luck,
e

Glas482

Hello everyone. Thanks much for the quick advice and suggestions. I think I will quit watching the auctions and stick to finding one locally here in the Cincinnati area. Or maybe even save my money over the fall and winter and get that Boxster. This is a great site.

Matthew
98 Volvo XC (his)
99 Nissian Maxima (hers)

InThePocket

Welcome to the Rennlist! You're right, this IS a really great site. There is indeed much wisdom afoot. Good luck with your search.

Roger

frankd

If youlookingtodo track events there is nothing likea 72 or 73.


They are lightweight and offer alot of fun.

.

JackOlsen

Here, here.

ajackson

Can the 72 that Jack drives really be compared to any other 72?

JackOlsen

That's my 73 in the picture, at the track where I later totaled it.

But it's true, an early car's virtues get a big kick up the performance ladder when you drop in a 3.6.

Doug&Julie

...AND big wide fenders AND big wide wheels and tires AND beefy suspension upgrades AND monster brakes AND...

r911

The
70-71's have the great racing shift pattern (not good for stop & go).

The '72 has the oil tank in front of the wheel - funky and has better Ctr. of Gravity.

the 73.5 has the lousy CIS - it is economical, slow and revs poorly. I've gotten rid of two sets of CIS so far and converted to carbs (which suck gas, but give geat experiences in exchange).

Condition is everything.