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oil cooler replacement (finally)

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Old 07-06-2004, 03:50 AM
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snakepitt1
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Default oil cooler replacement (finally)

I finally have the time to change out my engine mounted oil cooler with a new engine mount oil cooler. Mine is plugged up.
My question is this:
I have been told the the best way to change out this cooler is to do a partial engine drop. But first I have to take the shift coupler apart? How is this done? Pictures would be helpfull. As well of any pictures of the partial engine drop.
Thank you,
Scott
Old 07-06-2004, 04:22 PM
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snakepitt1
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3 hours later.... the oil cooler has been changed out. I accomplished the deed with out dropping the engine or removing the heat exchanger. It was actually much easier than I expected. I also replaced a slightly worn "S" hose while I was at it. What else should I do before putting oil back in the beast? I was thinking about waiting on refilling with oil for a couple weeks and order the little pocket cooler that replaces the "S" hose.
Thoughts?
Old 07-07-2004, 03:07 AM
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Elephant Chuck
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As you found, the cooler is easily replaced on MFI and carbed cars. The CIS and later cars are a bear and require a partial engine drop.

I assume you replaced the 3 oil cooler seals.

Before you refill the oil, this would be an excellent time to adjust the valves. Any leaks that need addressing? Oil return tubes?
Old 07-07-2004, 05:55 AM
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snakepitt1
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Thanks Chuck,
I'm looking at potential leak points. I seem to be getting some smoke from the drivers side rear of the engine. I'm going to look into the oil lines back there as well as the seal on the left side cam that drives the MFI pump. I should replace the airbox hose to the oil fill tube as well as the "breather" hose. Living in the area of TN I'm in meams I have to buy everything either on line or through catalogs.
Old 07-08-2004, 03:16 AM
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Eric Smith
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dude. I think the shift coupler may be the easiest part of this job. I am no pro and have only dropped my engine and tranny once but if you don't have the haynes manual already, you should buy it asap. The factory service manual is great also but it cost me $200 instead of 19.95 for the haynes. To answer your question, you remove the inspection plate with the four philips head screws in the tranny tunnel behing your seats. Then remove the single bolt that holds the couplet to the shift rod sticking out of the tranny nose. if you remove the clamp on the coupler you will need to readjust your linkage, which is not dificult but can be avoided. however you need the manual to tell you how to adjust your certain model



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