Searched and couldn’t find any posts on the topic (maybe that’s my answer right there).

Any feedback on this tool? I know there used to be same design from another company a while ago.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...ustomReviewAnc

I know about the specific Porsche shaped feeler gauge, but I’m looking to take as much trial and error out of the valve adjustment process. Tough to get in there even when you’ve got normal sized hands, and I’m a giant.

89 3.2 Carrera.

Thanks,

TDS

 

If you search for KIRK tool, I think you will find a lot more information. It appears to me that the KIRK tool is now being produced by or sold under the Rennline brand.

Kirk tool discussion on Pelican

 

That's a nifty looking tool , never even heard of it , i would do some research before spending $100. on a tool you're going to use once every few years.
I've done over a dozen valve adjustments using the old fashioned curved tool with the .004 feeler gauge strips and as long as you don't run out of feeler gauges
it's time consuming but it works well.
One thing , just wondering how convenient that tool is to use in situ with the engine in the car ?

Cheers
Phil

 

I have one of the KIRK tools before they were badged as Rennline. find that it works very well and I get consistent gap adjustment using it. it does take a little practice the first time, but is fairly easy and intuitive to use. the technique I use is to use the tool to establish the gap and while the tool is in place lightly snug the locking nut, then remove the tool and use a standard flat blade to counter hold the adjuster while fully torqueing the lock nut into place. This was all done with the engine still in the car. Of course access is somewhat limited with the engine installed, but this tool make engine in valve adjustment very feasible.

 

Thanks for the responses. Agreed that price is high for such a seldom use tool, but feasibility of accurate servicing may be worth the cost.

After researching more, there seems to be a lot of support for doing the back of rocker method, because of being more accessible. I think I may try that way?

Regardless of method, the lack of consistent results using a feeler gauge surprises me. I’ve done a lot of valve adjustments on inline and v config engines, and never had valves be out of adjustment after setting and manually rotating the engine, which suggests to me that the difficulty in access on this engine leads to inaccurate results.

Nothing about this engine should cause lash drift upon engine rotation, or even that Rennline tool would be unreliable and require feeler gauge verification?

Also, of course I just changed the oil. I assume I can just drain the case and the oil in the external sump will remain where it is?

Thanks.

 

Phil where do you get your replacement feeler gauges ? i had 2 bags but lost them both.

I hate to do an order to pelican just for that

 

Clive , i’m not sure where i got them originally , i know i bought quite a few at the time …
I stopped buying from Pelican a long time ago as there are a lot of vendors
who have better prices and lower shipping costs to Canada.
Since i dumped a 95 3.6 in my car , i no longer have to do valve adjustments anymore !
I’m out of town but when i get back home i’ll check the bag , i most likely kept the invoice, i’ll let you know.

Cheers
Phil

 

thanks Phil , same with me , i dont shop at Pelican, But i do need some replacement blades for my antique.

Easy enough to make ... but im just lazy

 

Adjusting valves is not rocket sience! I think you guys and gals are trying to be too precise. Caterpillar state in some of their service manual that if the lash is betveen some values, don’t adjust written in bold!

The 90 degree tool is what you need, better spend your money to something more beneficial. Buy some extra blades and with a little practice you master it.

A very precise valve lash can have some benefit in a race engine, but I don’t think so. There are many variables in each cylinder, but if you eliminate one, it don’t hurt. But this in a race engine where you want to squeeze everything out.

 

I’ve done over a dozen valve adjustments when my car had a 3.2 and on friend’s cars and, it’s not rocket science,although i found that it’s pretty easy to scrap
a feeler gauge blade , mainly after double and triple checking the sequence of adjustments. It’s a pain in the butt and takes some time but like Juha mentions if done on a 6000 rpm street car it’s not too critical, as the main goal is to eliminate any valve clatter noise.

Cheers
Phil

 

i was just going to say the same , my butt dyno can feel zero difference, but my ear can hear it....

 

As I said before, practice! If you hear valve clatter, your not concentrating what you do.

 

Are the cover gaskets reused or replaced when performing this adjustment?

 

Normal to replace. Porsche sells a set that has new washers, nyloc nuts and gaskets as a valve adjustment kit.

 

. i can do this with my eyes closed .. you totally missed the point of what i was trying to say , language barrier likely