gumshoe3000

Hey All,

First time poster but long time lurker (from afar). I've gotten to the point where I've got the aircooled bug, but am looking for guidance as to where to start.
My goal is to have a street legal hot rod in California (Bay Area). My reasoning is that I love the aircooled aesthetic, lightweight nature, and handling. I'm looking for something raw and analog.
While I've driven in a 2.7/stock G body, I felt underwhelmed by the power (in comparison to most cars I've owned over the years having more than 400whp).
So, ultimately I'm looking to build and/or swap post purchase. That leads me into recently when I attempted to buy a '78 RSR type from out of state. I learned that there was no way I'd be able to pass smog and due to titling, I would have to have the CA DMV inspector look at it (no hot smog there).

My question is, if I'm looking for something 300whp+, somewhat reliable, and streetable in CA (not purely a track car) - what would you do?

My current thought is to go <'75 where there is no smog requirements. I like the long hoods, so maybe start there?
Under this criteria - I could pop in a 3.2L? maybe a 3.6L? What would be the recommendation for this?
What about handling/suspension for the long hoods? Would I be able to put down 300whp without a roll cage? Or would I need to mod it out to have (steel) flares and a wider body/tires?
Would it be cheaper to buy + build (to my taste), or wait for a built one?

The other thought is to get a G body stock, mod it, then return to stock for the smog test? Or hot smog (which I understand is probably not entirely advisable)? What do other G body modded cars do in CA?

I'm quite aware that there is no right answer here, but I just want to start off making the right call rather than being stuck in a scenario where I can't meet my end goals. Thanks!

rstarga

Buy one unless you have 150k and 5-10 years

IXXII

He is right. I started with a 1970 retired 911 race car with 3.0L race engine. Stripped the body to bare metal, added turbo flares, fiberglass front and metal rear. Got a fiberglass hood with Lemans gas cap. Rear deck lid is duck tail. Fitted 11” rear tires and 9” front tires. Bored and stroked the 3.0L to 3.6L with Motec EFI (300whp) and upgraded transmission. Suspension is Vonn coil overs front and rear from Elephant racing. Cut out full cage to create rear half cage with light weight interior and Recaro seats. Front and rear LED lights.
Overall it took 2 years. But now its a great hot rod that creates lots of smiles under full throttle. It is super reliable and I dont mind driving like I stole it. :-). And I learned a-lot during the journey.

gumshoe3000

Thanks for the thought. I don't mind 1-2 years for something I'd like love in the end.
Curious as to how much you spent on each?
The 1970 911 race car with engine? How good of condition was it in? What's a good range for quality here?
How much was the exterior body work in total (roughly)?
What about engine work in total?
What about interior body work in total?

Did you do this in Norcal? Any recommendations for a shop around here?

rstarga

Spyrex here has given price estimates for what you ask on another thread.

IXXII

I would plan on spending $175 -$225 including donor car for everything. My donor car was only $35k but it needed everything done to make it streetsble. In retrospect I would have bought one already done then modded it to my specifications. Overall it would be more cost effective. I would get a 964 with 3.6 engine and mod to 3.8. Then covert to long hood with turbo flares and light weight interior. Learn and do as much as you can yourself. Find a shop in Norcal you trust to do the things you cant. Im in Atlanta so not familiar with that area. Many shop owners will see you as a mark and over charge and take longer than you think. I found it much more satisfying and rewarding to do what I could myself. You can learn anything on youtube!

gumshoe3000

That's helpful to know. Only problem is that in CA anything over 1975 needs to be smogged. Can't mod a 964 without starting to fail.
Nonetheless I appreciate the premise of this - buy as nice as I can and make tweaks from there.

SHooks

My 1983sc is very fun to drive, feels like it has more the 200HP. It still has factory exhaust and A/c. By putting 7” and 8”x16 wheels and mild interior upgrades,seats ,shifter and Rennline bits make a very hot rod feel for not much money. Probably a $60k or less car

Edward

1. When you say "streetable" in CA do you mean compliant legal or.... Because this is a very big difference in this state (if you don't already know). Turning it back to smog-compliant is great in theory but a much bigger PITA in practice.
2. Longhood is gorgeous, but be prepared to spend lots of dough as this body style has long been desirable and the prices reflect it. I recall back in the 90s when I could have easily picked one up, then the prices started creeping up to where it just got kinda nuts. Early body with a 3.6 "stock" engine would be nice, but good luck not spending a mint.
3. G Bodies are strong bang-for-buck cars. But they are simply not getting you anywhere near 300 ponies unless you go turbocharged.
4. Anyway you look at it, you're looking at big dollars, and even bigger dollars if you want CA-compliance. This may be totally off topic, but may I suggest:

Getting a good G body that is mechanically sound and well-sorted: now gut it of all weight imaginable. Get light bits for whatever "comfort" level/aesthetic you're looking for to replace the interior that you've removed. Spend some time and energy on quality suspension bits, excellent rubber, and a proper alignment. You will have a sub-200hp car that is fast, fun, and likely will fulfill your desires for that "raw and analog" thrill you crave! Fwiw, I got my SC down to 2550 lbs and I didn't even do any body work!

You want to up the ante further? Go to the track and learn how to drive a "slow car" fast. It's a thrill that lasts far longer than the ephemeral grin of 400HP. Think about it: you say that you've owned cars with 400+ ponies over the years yet you're still lurking here. Face it, HP in itself will bore you!

All IMO, of course. Happy hunting!

Edward

gumshoe3000

Edward - thanks for the reply.

• I might be over simplifying it, but isn't anything <1976 not inspected in CA, therefore fair game for any mod my heart desires?
• Understood on LH + 3.6 - I feel as though they've not gone as much up in price relative to the G bodies over the past 3 years?
• I don't mind a turbo on a G, but those also are quite expensive (I'm starting to see the trend here).

On your last point - I actually prefer G bodies to LH. Maybe I go this route for something different, rather than more of the same.

gumshoe3000

I mean I feel like this would be a decent starting point (not original engine, some interior work needs to be done):
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...911s-coupe-25/
However, this will likely finish at too high of a value?

budge96

haha wait until you see where this goes , he has the original matching engine case I believe and has just completed a multi year resto , he likely has a reserve over $175 k

there are many cheaper ways to achieve a low buck hotrod with out paying an exorbitant toll for classic matching numbers S cars , that train has left the station LOL , Bert

gumshoe3000

Ah - I must have missed/misread that matching case. I thought it was subbed out in the 90's - perhaps the stamp shows it.
No need to even humor that idea as it's not a good fit for what I'm looking for - I agree.

Edward

Hey gumshoe,

I don't know all the regs on CA smog, but I know it's pre-74 that are exempt. That said, check if that means "stock" pre-74 because my hunch is you can't just take a LH shell, cram whatever engine you like, and Cali gives you a thumbs up. OTOH, if that is the case, more power to ya!! But even then, any Longhood body is still commanding premiums.

Your call on how much HP you really want. As I had said, HP and "fun" is relative. And this coming from a guy who loves liter-class bikes and has ridden for decades, HP is undeniably and unapologetically fun. But a "Porsche budget" dwarfs a motorcycle budget so if you can afford what you want, perfect! But if real money is a genuine constraint, I'd go with a G-body (still somewhat affordable, depending, but even that's getting tough these days!!) and "add lightness" in lieu of big power. Forgive me for asking, but you ever do track events? If not, this can be your new gateway drug, er, hobby.

Edward

gumshoe3000

doesn't seem like there is any bidding on this - any reason as to why you think it's a pass?