Is this reasonable, or I am dreaming???????
Main objective is a Porsche 911 Carrera with drivability, longevity and driving enjoyment. The car will never be tracked, but will be used in extended spirited driving sessions, and also in traffic. Will never be driven on snowed on, salted/chemically treated roads, but will be driven in rain. All mechanical groups (engine, brakes, steering, suspension) must last at least 100,000 miles provided normal maintenance is correctly and timely performed. Body must also last this mileage without rust.

1. Must have

1.- Porsche 911 Carrera MY 87’, 88’or 89’

2.- Absolutely no rust, nor accident or rust repair or damage.

3.- Numbers matching body, engine and G50 gearbox.

4.- No more than 100,000 miles on the odometer.

5.- Original exterior color paint in good condition.

6.- Interior in excellent original condition.

7.- Exterior color: No yellow; preferably silver gray or blue tones.

8.- Interior color: Preferably black, preferably dark tones. No red interior.

9.- Fuchs 16” or 17” wheels in excellent condition.

1. Highly desired

Leather seats

Electric adjustable driver & passenger seats

Limited slip differential

1. PROJECT

I: Engine:



Full EFI conversion w/individual throttle bodies & fullest possible control of ignition, fuel & air management.

Fully inspected, serviced and rebuilt, blueprinted & balanced engine.

Original crankcase must be used in build.

Power increase to at least 250 rwhp; substantial torque increase.

Engine must operate perfectly on regular gas, at altitudes between -100 to + 3,700 meters relative to sea level, and at temperatures between -5 to +50 celsius in stop and go traffic as well as at maximum load.

Full new engine & complete car wiring loom; full mapping and adjustment to include rev. limiter and max. speed limiter to protect engine and not exceed aerodynamic & tire speed limits.



II: Transmission:



Fully inspected, serviced and rebuilt, gearbox including limited slip differential. Add limited slip differential if absent.

Fully inspected or substituted clutch, pressure plate and flywheel, as necessary and appropriate for engine.



III: Suspension:



Full front and rear suspension modernization upgrade, including full coilover conversion, as required for full and improved precision adjustment of camber, caster, toe, ride height and weight per corner (Elephant Racing package?).



IV: Brakes:



Full 930 Turbo front and rear brake conversion including turbo master cylinder and change of brake lines (Elephant Racing package?).



V: Steering:



Full inspection, service and rebuild, as necessary of steering rack, column and other components; add Turbo tie rods.



VI: Electrical:



Full new engine & complete car wiring loom; full mapping and adjustment to include rev. limiter and max. speed limiter to protect engine and not exceed aerodynamic & tire speed limits.

Led conversion to interior and exterior lights whenever appropriate and possible.

Upgrade and modernize system where possible (alternator, regulator, fuse panel, etc.).

Modernize/upgrade sound system with 4 new speakers and head unit including Bluetooth & phone.

Install modern best quality alarm & security system.



VII: Interior:



Inspect, repair and refresh complete interior to correct German period specification. Change speedometer to Km including odometer. Change to German market period gauges. Everything must function correctly. Change/improve air conditioning system to best modern current aftermarket system.





VIII: Body:



Inspection of full body to eliminate any rust and to rustproof completely, and to repair any damage to original condition. Delete rear tray spoiler if present. Bring to German period correct specification. Reinforce all required points to implement, and take full advantage of suspension upgrade.

1. Budget:

Car: $70,000.00

Engine: $20,000.00

Suspension: $10,000.00

Brakes: $10,000.00

Body: $10,000.00

Interior: $10,000.00

Total: $130,000.00

I would be very grateful for your wisdom , comments and advice!!

Best!

 

I just went thru all of this......If you do some of this work yourself.......maybe.
More like $150,000 - $180,000 otherwise.

 

Thanks AG81. I apologize for the lenght of my post, please excuse my inexperience in internet forums. Although I have lurked here for some time, it is not often I post anything. I do not have either the knwledge nor the patience to do any of the work myself. All work would have to be done in the U.S. in reputable shops recommenmded in this forum. Car would have to be purchased in the U.S. and legally imported, then taken back to the U.S. So I guess $180,000.00 then. I guess next question to the forum would be is it worth it? Any 78'-88' 911 in quite regular condition is worth $80,000.00. I can get a 2017 997.1 911 S with 20,000 mi. for $83,000.00 down here in Mexico City. I know they are different things and experiences, but, what do you think?

Best,

 

Apple vs orange an understatement?

 

I know most people would look at the two cars (G-body vs 997) and think they fit the same niche, but like Jrtaylor points out, they're totally different experiences. It comes down to: What are you looking for in a 911?

Even with an aftermarket AC, a G-body is an old car, and it feels like an old, analog car. It's a raw and simplistic driving experience. There are no power brakes. No power steering. The clutch is heavy. The steering is heavy. The brakes feel wooden. The gear shift feels somewhat vague-ish. But once you get moving, everything feels perfectly weighted. You feel every bump and seam and groove and crack in the road, for better or worse. You know what each of your 4 contact patches are doing at any given time. There's always an odor of oil and gasoline. You feel like as a driver, you're as vital to the car getting from one point to another as the car is, itself. There's a visceral driving involvement that no modern car matches.

A 997 is an incredible car, too. It's much more comfortable, and it feels like a modern car (like a late-model Camry or Mercedes). You just get in it and go. It's more comfortable and less effort to drive. The steering and pedals and shifter are all light to touch (maybe too light at first? not enough feel?), yet like in the air-cooled 911 once you get moving everything feels perfectly weighted, too. The shifter is fantastic and feels like a rifle bolt. You'd be much more refreshed after a 300-mile drive after climbing out of a 997, compared to a G-body 911. If you just want a car to get in and go (while still making the proper 911 noises and offering a fantastic driving experience), the 997 is a much better car. And if you have a spouse/significant other who's not as hard-core as you are about the driving experience, that may be important if you ever want them to go on road trips and adventures with you. But that feeling of driver involvement is just a wee bit less. Like you're a little less important in the car making it safely and quickly from point A to point B, because the car is so competent. FWIW, I think the 997 is the best-looking of the 4 generations of water-cooled 911s.

 

Have you owned or driven a 911 before? A stock87,88, or 89 is already a really nice reliable car. Even if you build your dream car in the US, will you have someone who knows how to service the modded car?

 

Yeah, that's another problem with highly modded cars. It can be hard enough for some to find a mechanic who knows air-cooled Porsches. But then when stuff doesn't work right, you have to find someone willing and able to fix something they (and Stuttgart) didn't build. Sometimes it's nice to keep stuff stock-ish.

 

I have friend in Mexico City and he cannot find a good mechanic to work on his 88 911. Not many air-cooled guys around there anymore.

 

Your best bet might be to find one that has already been modified and meets most of your requirements. It would most likely sell for much less than $150-180K, and you won't have to wait 2-3 years (and maybe more) for your project car to complete.

 

Nobody has answered the OPs original question.

You are dreaming.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if you were 2xx by the time you finish that build. Nothing is cheap today and everything takes multiples longer than it did pre-Covid. Sorry to rain on your parade but yes you are dreaming.

 

^
Wanted to say this outright....hated to burst their bubble.

 

My thoughts are your must haves are too stringent for your desired purpose. You seem to be looking to hard for an original condition car to then use thoroughly. So what if it has a little rust repair somewhere in the last 40 years?? If you intend to do all these upgrades and improvements why do you need an original high level condition car?