snakepitt1

Okay, here's the deal.
1973 911T 2.4L MFI. Engine rebuilt less than 1500 miles ago. Light popping through drivers side stacks at idle. Exhaust temperatures hot enough to melt thermoplastic bumper during a 2 hour drive.
Lately my engine oil temps are climbing up to 250 after less than 20-30 minutes of highway driving. It didn't used to do this. I have changed the engine mounted oil thermostat to no avail. MFI slightly rich. 20W50 Mobil 1 synthetic and new filter. Oil level is right at full line. Oil pump screen is clean and clear. No auxiliary cooler on car.
I bought a replacement stock engine mount cooler on E-Bay about a year ago, had it pressure checked and it's fine. I am thinking about relacing the original cooler with this one (same model). My question is this:
How difficult is it to replace this cooler if I do not have access to a garage lift, just floor jack and good jack stands, and of course a complete set of tools. I'm either going to use this cooler or sell it on E-Bay, and I know this one is completely clean inside and out and it has passed pressure testing.
I am willing to do all the work and promise not to try and not cuss too much. How long should a replacement like this take? Realistically. I have the time to do the work, and know it couldn't hurt to put in a "new" cooler in place of the old one.
Also... what about this "compact oil cooler" Performance Products sells it for $299. It goes between the oil tank and cooler , replaces the "S" hose line. They claim a 15 degree temperature reduction.
Thanks,

snakepitt1

Contact e-mail is snakepitt1@aol.com
or 731-514-1946

DGaunt

As far as I know, this can be done, but it is fussy and awkward. I read a discussion on this work, I think it was on the pelican site, but not sure. Do a search?

That finned "S" hose: I just can't see that there is enough surface area to deliver that temp reduction. On the other hand, There is good airflow there. But, it seems to me that if 2 feet of finned line can do 15 degrees, all that plumbing to the front of the car and back, finned or not should be good for 50 degrees, and we know that ain't true.

for what it's worth, I installed an '88 Carerra cooler in my '76 last winter and couldn't be more pleased with it. I suggest you install your 'new' on-engine cooler, then budget for a fender cooler. Once you do that, you should be able to forget about it until you build a race engine.

DGaunt

Hey Snake, something else just occured to me.

That popping at idle. are you sure the cam on that side is timed right? just a thought.

Noel

Are you sure your oil cooler thermostat is working correctly?

snakepitt1

Hey guys, thanks for the thoughts. The oil thermostat is brand new and did not solve the problem. I advanced my timing a few degrees, it was slightly retarded. But due to all the rain, I can't drive it to find out if the adjustments were helpfull or not.

dawgster

Using the partial engine drop described in the tech articles on this site, I was able to pull the engine oil cooler on my '75. I was chasing down oil leaks and back dating the exhaust so it's hard to say how much time to allow for just the oil cooler. I think the involved h.e. needs to come off to get the cooler off. It calls for a lot of tight hand positions and body contortions but it can be done. Good luck.

snakepitt1

I am going to try and replace the on engine cooler . Can anyone give me a run down on issues I need to be aware of prior to ripping and tearing? Specifically, are there special tools required, certain disassembly procedures that should be followed from your experience that would be helpfull, parts list of gaskets or seals, things to watch out for, etc...
If the passenger side heat exchanger has to come off, then I know I will require those gaskets as well as the muffler gasket. Are there special seals for the cooler? That sure is a tight fit back there. Once the cooler is out, is there anything I should check at that time?
Questions, questions... Thanks

DGaunt

There are three (3) rubber seals in there. They are very affordable.
I'm not sure if the HE has to come off, but I think you will have an easier time of it. If you do take it off, I suggest you replace the exhaust nuts with copper ones available from Wurth....they never seize, and if they do, a light hit with a chisel and they come right off.

ebsalem

1. get the car's butt as high as you can with the front wheels on the ground.

2. disconnect the shift coupler.

3. put your floor jack under the rear-most point of the engine case and remove the two engine mounting nuts.

4 loosen the tranny side bolts about four turns.

5. then you can GENTLY lower the motor to the point where you can easily pull the cooler.

6. replace the seals and re-install in reverse order.

kach22i

RE:
2. disconnect the shift coupler.

I asked the shop who pulled my engine when they replace the rear oil cooler and clutch if they disconnected the shifter/coupler.

The owner said no!

I have replaced the coupler, and it shifts much better now.

I will not be going back to that shop.

It's about $50 for a new coupler, might want to think about changing it out while the carpet is pulled back.

Good luck, I hear the oil cooler is a messy job.

snakepitt1

Sounds like the partial engine drop it the way I should go. Now, did you have to remove the heat exchanger to change out the cooler? or was the partial engine drop sufficient to allow the removal with out HE removal. My transmision was rebuilt the same time the engine was and shifts great. I had a friend drive my car (he owns a 73 911E) and he said his car never shifted as well as mine. So, my coupler won't need replacing, but, would disconecting it throw off my transmission?
ALSO, where can I buy the replacement seals? Part number???
Thanks,

kach22i

Mark the exact location of the coupler & shaft, I used a Sharpie marker on both edges.

You might as well grease the coupler bushings while you are down there, it's your car.

snakepitt1

I'm still looking for part numbers and prices for the cooler replacement seals. I checked in Performance Products catalog but didn't see them. Anyone have a guess on time to do this cooler swap out?
Thanks.......

snakepitt1

I was planning on changing out the engine cooler this weekend, but my wife came up with a family adventure that we "simply must do". Crap!!! Now it will be another week before I get a shot at fixing my car. If it didn't cost so much, I would pay someone to do this swap for me. Of course, it wouldn't be as much fun for me that way. Family adventure means less $$$$ for the Porsche.