Brand new clutch not dusengaging
#1
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The car is a 69 911S
It had a 3.2 that broke a rod bolt so it sat in the garage for 10 years while U worked in other projects. In an effort to get her in the road again I wasted time, money and energy in so called experts that basically ripped me off and stole one if my motors.
I did a ton of research and now the car sports a flat six 3.0 subaruotor. Months have gone by trying to figure out how to wire and learn how to program the after no market ECU. I finally to buy a wiring harness and ECU from Out Front Motorsports and it was the best thing I ever did.
My research led me to Kennedy Engineering where I bought an adapter plate and flywheel for the Subaru to 915 I got it all back togrther, started it up and it did nothing but grind into every gear. So ti make an already long story short I then went and bought a new clutch cable, thriwout bearing, new clutch and pressure plate from KE, new clutch cable bracket, filled it with swepco and tried it again. It still grinds and won't go into gear. What am I doing wrong?
This tranny worked perfect with the 3.2 attached. Shifted great and the clutch worked great too. When I changed the oil there were no metal shavings. I also rebuilt the clutch part of the pedal assembly. I noticed that the pedal was extremely stiff. Now when the car is off it goes into every gear with no problem. When it's running it dies nothing but grind. U had my wife push in the clutch pedal while U was under the car measuring and it seems like I'm only getting 6mm of the 25mm of travel necessary. What am I doing wrong here? I made some adjustments and out the car in gear out the clutch pedal to the floor and the car finally did not lunge forward. So I tried it again and thus time the clutch cable bracket be in the tranny snapped. That's the second time that happened. What am I doing wrong here?
It had a 3.2 that broke a rod bolt so it sat in the garage for 10 years while U worked in other projects. In an effort to get her in the road again I wasted time, money and energy in so called experts that basically ripped me off and stole one if my motors.
I did a ton of research and now the car sports a flat six 3.0 subaruotor. Months have gone by trying to figure out how to wire and learn how to program the after no market ECU. I finally to buy a wiring harness and ECU from Out Front Motorsports and it was the best thing I ever did.
My research led me to Kennedy Engineering where I bought an adapter plate and flywheel for the Subaru to 915 I got it all back togrther, started it up and it did nothing but grind into every gear. So ti make an already long story short I then went and bought a new clutch cable, thriwout bearing, new clutch and pressure plate from KE, new clutch cable bracket, filled it with swepco and tried it again. It still grinds and won't go into gear. What am I doing wrong?
This tranny worked perfect with the 3.2 attached. Shifted great and the clutch worked great too. When I changed the oil there were no metal shavings. I also rebuilt the clutch part of the pedal assembly. I noticed that the pedal was extremely stiff. Now when the car is off it goes into every gear with no problem. When it's running it dies nothing but grind. U had my wife push in the clutch pedal while U was under the car measuring and it seems like I'm only getting 6mm of the 25mm of travel necessary. What am I doing wrong here? I made some adjustments and out the car in gear out the clutch pedal to the floor and the car finally did not lunge forward. So I tried it again and thus time the clutch cable bracket be in the tranny snapped. That's the second time that happened. What am I doing wrong here?
Last edited by Shawneboy993; 06-07-2021 at 01:41 PM. Reason: Adding pics
#2
Burning Brakes
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First thought is that your throwout bearing is getting hung up on something....I would think about the pilot bearing being buggered, but since you don't have the range of motion of the clutch arm I am tending to discount that.
Being shiftable when the car is not running suggests that your input shaft is spinning and the suspect has to be something on the Subaru motor.....something sticking out in the wrong spot??
Being shiftable when the car is not running suggests that your input shaft is spinning and the suspect has to be something on the Subaru motor.....something sticking out in the wrong spot??
#3
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First thought is that your throwout bearing is getting hung up on something....I would think about the pilot bearing being buggered, but since you don't have the range of motion of the clutch arm I am tending to discount that.
Being shiftable when the car is not running suggests that your input shaft is spinning and the suspect has to be something on the Subaru motor.....something sticking out in the wrong spot??
Being shiftable when the car is not running suggests that your input shaft is spinning and the suspect has to be something on the Subaru motor.....something sticking out in the wrong spot??
- Dies the cunout shaft actually touch the crank ever? I used an alignment took and everything. I really think the isuue is a lack of travel but I just ordered a new clutch firj just to be safer. To further complicate the issue check this out. The car is a 69 with a 915 tranny. 69s from what I've heard don't come with 915 tranny's so then which cable should I be using. The cable that worked in the 3.2 was from a 72 car if I remember right. J ordered a 69 cable and it was completely different from the one I had. I dunno!
#4
Team Owner
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ok hold on ....
you are not getting the 25.4 mm of travel when you press the clutch ... ? id be checking the pedal cluster end of the equation for a broken roll pin. i mean the 25.4 mm is how far the arm moves when you press the pedal .. if the pedal goes down the full distance but back end only moves 6mm you gotta think the issue is not inside the bell housing
you are not getting the 25.4 mm of travel when you press the clutch ... ? id be checking the pedal cluster end of the equation for a broken roll pin. i mean the 25.4 mm is how far the arm moves when you press the pedal .. if the pedal goes down the full distance but back end only moves 6mm you gotta think the issue is not inside the bell housing
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Shawneboy993 (06-09-2021)
#5
Burning Brakes
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- Dies the cunout shaft actually touch the crank ever? I used an alignment took and everything. I really think the isuue is a lack of travel but I just ordered a new clutch firj just to be safer. To further complicate the issue check this out. The car is a 69 with a 915 tranny. 69s from what I've heard don't come with 915 tranny's so then which cable should I be using. The cable that worked in the 3.2 was from a 72 car if I remember right. J ordered a 69 cable and it was completely different from the one I had. I dunno!
I think you have to pull it out with the engine, take out the pressure plate and see what the motion is without the pressure plate in place to see if it is hanging up somewhere without spring pressure complicating your life.
Insofar as the cable goes, as long as it connects up, can be tensioned and actually moves the actuation lever on the transmission, you should be good.
#6
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Thanks for the reply. I have never seen a bearing that is embedded in the back of the crankshaft in either the Porsche or Subaru or any motor do I'm not clear on what your referring to
#7
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Here is an update....I started her up yesterday to see if my adjustment be made any difference. Then all of the sudden Snap!.....it was a clutch cable bracket that snapped from the pressure. I took a small piece of metal and Mickey moused a bracket just until the new one arrives. I also ordered a new helper spring, and clutch fork arm.
After the bracket was in place I pushed the clutch in and started it up and the car lunged forward but not as bad as usual.... So I tried again and this time I pushed the clutch pedal all the way to the floor while the car was in gear. Started her up and no lunge..,yeah.......I'll go pull the pedal cluster our again and rebuild the whole thing this time thanks for the replies people. Very helpful
After the bracket was in place I pushed the clutch in and started it up and the car lunged forward but not as bad as usual.... So I tried again and this time I pushed the clutch pedal all the way to the floor while the car was in gear. Started her up and no lunge..,yeah.......I'll go pull the pedal cluster our again and rebuild the whole thing this time thanks for the replies people. Very helpful
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#8
Team Owner
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Here is an update....I started her up yesterday to see if my adjustment be made any difference. Then all of the sudden Snap!.....it was a clutch cable bracket that snapped from the pressure. I took a small piece of metal and Mickey moused a bracket just until the new one arrives. I also ordered a new helper spring, and clutch fork arm.
After the bracket was in place I pushed the clutch in and started it up and the car lunged forward but not as bad as usual.... So I tried again and this time I pushed the clutch pedal all the way to the floor while the car was in gear. Started her up and no lunge..,yeah.......I'll go pull the pedal cluster our again and rebuild the whole thing this time thanks for the replies people. Very helpful
After the bracket was in place I pushed the clutch in and started it up and the car lunged forward but not as bad as usual.... So I tried again and this time I pushed the clutch pedal all the way to the floor while the car was in gear. Started her up and no lunge..,yeah.......I'll go pull the pedal cluster our again and rebuild the whole thing this time thanks for the replies people. Very helpful
good work ..