TravisRT1985

I’ve owned my 88 3.2 coupe for 2 years 3 months now but I didn’t get the luxury of being able to get a leak down test on the car when I purchased it. It just went in for a major servicing so I figured while I’m getting the valves adjusted I would also have the leak down test completed out of curiosity. The car now has 88,300 miles with the numbers:

cylinder 1: 2%
cylinder 2: 3%
cylinder 3: 1%
cylinder 4: 9%
cylinder 5: 1%
cylinder 6: 3%

healthy numbers I’m told. The car does not leak a drop of oil . Any idea what time span I might get out of it before I need a top end? I dont track it or plan to drive it that hard . This may not even be a question that can be answered but I was curious .

Indiana Jones

Numbers look good. I am going to do one soon too. I have a leak (magnesium case)...and am debating rebuilding.

I'm not familiar enough with the 3.2 to give an "standard" interval, and since you've only spent 2 years with the car I think most would be guessing.

AndrewCologne

With how many PSI applying to the cylinders did you perform the leak down test? I Guess using 100 Psi?
Which leak down test tool you did use? One from HarborFreight, Hazet, ... ?

As more PSI you will apply as lower the leak down values will result, so you have to see it proportionally. And by this, ... a difference of 1% at cyl. 3 and 5 ... and 9% at cyl.4 .... could be a bit odd.
The logic here is that the resulting values – beside not resulting too high – should be almost the same on all cylinders for a good result

Vane

You knew the numbering? Cyl 3 is running hottest so it can have more leak. Your numbers are very low. Let's put it this
way, if I would buy a car and would be presented with such numbers, I would re-check them. But what ever it sound that
your engine is in good condition. Just maintain it as Porsche specify and enjoy. Let the horses worry, they have big heads.

While you're doing service, check the fuel lines. Try to turn the hoses to verify that the rubber hoses are still well crimped to
the steel ends. They get loose over time and you don't want fuel leaks in engine bay. Hoses are expensive but they can be
repaired.

You should drive the car as it is designed, hard but not mishandling. Join PCA and attend drivers ed, it's really fun and you
probably learn a lot.

TravisRT1985

I’m not sure about the psi. I took the car to intersport, a specialized aircooled p-car shop in northern virginia. I wish I could have had them do the original ppi as they were much much more thorough in their checkover of the car. I tend to baby the car when I drive it, which I know it doesn’t like . They seem to think the 9% could just be some carbon build up.

my next move is to do some refreshening of the suspension, new shocks and struts, wheel bearings, and upgraded turbo tie rods. I’ve heard good things about bilstein HD shocks in the front and sports in the rear. I might opt for those

TravisRT1985

I did find out they indeed used 100 psi.

AndrewCologne

If actually real 100 Psi did reach the combustion chamber then this is not a good choice for doing a proper leak down test, as it always results in much smaller values which "on the first view" looks good.
Professional leak down devices like the one from Hazet internally reduce the incoming pressure to 4 bar which gives a much wider range as result, ... here all values between 0 and 20% are "green", means ok.
https://www.hazet.de/en/products/spe...mber=en_4795-1

Beside the fact above, the much higher value from cylinder 4, compared to the others, would make me at least thinking about doing a second test at a different service garage, asking them in advance what device they are using.