When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
[QUOTE=thinkiwanta928;15978721
Still debating why the need to upgrade the tie rods to the turbo ends. Without the rubber bushing on the inside end of the tie rods, doesn't the steering wheel receive A LOT more road feedback?[/QUOTE]
Just do it. I've had these on 3 cars. It's GOOD. And removes MUSH, without harshness. Keep in mind, Porsche did put these on the turbos. In my opinion this is a no regrets change and only upside.
Just do it. I've had these on 3 cars. It's GOOD. And removes MUSH, without harshness. Keep in mind, Porsche did put these on the turbos. In my opinion this is a no regrets change and only upside.
Thank you for your confidence. I will order the turbo tie rod kits. I did find the inner tie rod bushings available for $65 each at Sunset Porsche.
I measured my suspension last night. Multiple attempts and varying how to measure resulted in very similar measurements. My fronts were withing 2 mm of each other each time I measured and my front is 100mm, so still set closer to US specification. The rear was also very similar left/right and was 24mm. Euro is 16mm +/- 5 so again, closer to the US specification.
Ok, so I have dropped the entire front suspension. I’m having difficulty separating the strut from the ball joint. The locking pins came out easily. But the ball joint shaft doesn’t want to drop out of the strut.
I’ve been soaking it with Freeze Off and hitting wishbone area next to ball joint with 3lb hammer but it won’t drop out.
Other method ideas?
I'm a fan of strings as well. It's usually a combination of tools that you need, Caster/Camber gauge, String set (SmartStrings are the best IMO), a slip plate/turn plate setup, a plate/bar to measure toe from (can use rim of wheel if need be), and more importantly a repeatable way of taking all measurements. We rolled most of these into one package, our Precision Hub Stands. Give us a look @ https://csmperformance.com/home/ We sell Caster/Camber gauges and can get your a set of SmartStrings albeit the latter isn't on our website yet.
I know it's on a Subaru but he puts that car through its paces.
To deal with slight non-level of my shop floor, I bought a box of linoleum tiles from the big orange hardware chain, plus a long (maybe 8 feet?) square-section of aluminum. Or you could just buy a really long bubble level, they have them too. The tiles are about 1/8" thick and I just put a few under the corner needing some height adjustment.
To deal with slight non-level of my shop floor, I bought a box of linoleum tiles from the big orange hardware chain, plus a long (maybe 8 feet?) square-section of aluminum. Or you could just buy a really long bubble level, they have them too. The tiles are about 1/8" thick and I just put a few under the corner needing some height adjustment.
You can use tiles underneath to level the car, just make sure the tiles don't move around on you. Using a long bubble level between the pads will get you very close as well.
I have the front suspension completely disassembled. I ordered new rubber parts and the turbo tie rod kit from Elephant Racing. Where I park the 911 in the garage, I'd find oil spots about where the steering rack is, but never could see a drip hanging somewhere. When I removed the rack, it didn't look wet on the outside. The outside of the flexible boots are dry too. However, upon removing the boots and the tie rods, I found the inside of the passenger side boot was wet with oil.....but there's no oil in the rack....it is grease. So I decided to break down the rack and clean it out. My rack still had quite a bit of grease in the upper roller needle bearing and the lower ball bearings, but I could see inside the rack tube that the grease was breaking down and was runny. So I cleaned it out, cleaned out the bearings, and assembled using Napa Sil-Glyde. This grease stays in place up to 500F so I don't think I'll have any steering rack drips anytime soon. After assembly, the mechanism turns back and forth very well (prior I had no movement and no binding, car has about 53K miles on it).
Next process is to use the Elephant Racing tools to install the wishbone bushings.
exactly the problem of the "home" alignment method. What happens is that an alignment attempt quickly turns into dropping the entire front suspension including steering rack rebuild. Expect more work compound on you. It's a very healthy problem though.
exactly the problem of the "home" alignment method. What happens is that an alignment attempt quickly turns into dropping the entire front suspension including steering rack rebuild. Expect more work compound on you. It's a very healthy problem though.
Almost anything you touch on a 911 quickly turns into a can of worms. Trust me...
Well crap. I finished my installation of the front suspension. I have new wishbone bushings, turbo tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, upper strut bushings, seals, etc. Everything went back in rather smoothly. On my level floor, I set the initial toe in, set the right height to lower US settings, drove the car a couple of miles. Back on my level floor, the camber maxed out can only get to negative 1.5 on driver’s side and 1.3 neg on pass side.
Is this an axle to strut angle problem?
I really don’t think it is a strut tower collapse problem as the hood lines are even.
I dug in the archives of this forum and found little on worn axle to strut angle relationship.
Thoughts?
Well crap... set the right height to lower US settings, drove the car a couple of miles. Back on my level floor, the camber maxed out can only get to negative 1.5 on driver’s side and 1.3 neg on pass side.
Is this an axle to strut angle problem?
Thoughts?
Camber is inversely proportional to ride height. The lower the ride height, the greater the negative camber. So raise it up and your camber issues magically go away...(basic high school geometry)
Camber is inversely proportional to ride height. The lower the ride height, the greater the negative camber. So raise it up and your camber issues magically go away...(basic high school geometry)
I’m passed that ability. Even if I gave the car 20mm more ride height, there’s no way I’d gain 1.5 degree camber movement.
At the lower Euro height settings, weren’t they set at zero camber?
. Even if I gave the car 20mm more ride height, there’s no way I’d gain 1.5 degree camber movement.
At the lower Euro height settings, weren’t they set at zero camber?
Do you have the Euro height specs or just eyeballing. The specs are in mm not inches. 108mm is euro spec. and has nothing to do with fender heights.
Do you have the Euro height specs or just eyeballing. The specs are in mm not inches. 108mm is euro spec. and has nothing to do with fender heights.
I haven’t used the term/measurement “inches.” I’m measuring ride height per the book, the distance between axle center height and center of torsion bar.
07-17-2019, 07:30 PM
