Advice: Replace this Caliper Piston?
#1
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Does this need to be replaced?
The scratch is finger nail deep and is near the top portion of the piston (which may not seat against the inner seal):
#2
#5
Drifting
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Originally Posted by Skeptikal12
Thanks. Advice noted.
Best place to source replacements? These are the ATE For G50 Calipers. Pelican parts I assume and aftermarket is Ok?
Best place to source replacements? These are the ATE For G50 Calipers. Pelican parts I assume and aftermarket is Ok?
#6
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You should replace them all on same axle!
And follow Vic Skirmants advice:
One important thing to add to the discussion: Be sure to "exercise" the pistons!
The square cross-section O-ring needs to flex into position, otherwise the piston
gets pulled back slightly upon brake release.
You'll never get a good pedal until you wear the pads down somewhat.
After brake bleeding, remove one pad and substitute an old thin one, then pump the brakes.
Push the piston back and repeat. Do this at least two times for each piston.
You will notice an improved pedal with each one you do.
Yes, it's tedious; but you can't do it any other way that I'm aware of.
I've been preaching this for close to 50 years, and can't believe it still is a mystery to everybody.
And follow Vic Skirmants advice:
One important thing to add to the discussion: Be sure to "exercise" the pistons!
The square cross-section O-ring needs to flex into position, otherwise the piston
gets pulled back slightly upon brake release.
You'll never get a good pedal until you wear the pads down somewhat.
After brake bleeding, remove one pad and substitute an old thin one, then pump the brakes.
Push the piston back and repeat. Do this at least two times for each piston.
You will notice an improved pedal with each one you do.
Yes, it's tedious; but you can't do it any other way that I'm aware of.
I've been preaching this for close to 50 years, and can't believe it still is a mystery to everybody.
#7
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You should replace them all on same axle!
And follow Vic Skirmants advice:
One important thing to add to the discussion: Be sure to "exercise" the pistons!
The square cross-section O-ring needs to flex into position, otherwise the piston
gets pulled back slightly upon brake release.
You'll never get a good pedal until you wear the pads down somewhat.
After brake bleeding, remove one pad and substitute an old thin one, then pump the brakes.
Push the piston back and repeat. Do this at least two times for each piston.
You will notice an improved pedal with each one you do.
Yes, it's tedious; but you can't do it any other way that I'm aware of.
I've been preaching this for close to 50 years, and can't believe it still is a mystery to everybody.
And follow Vic Skirmants advice:
One important thing to add to the discussion: Be sure to "exercise" the pistons!
The square cross-section O-ring needs to flex into position, otherwise the piston
gets pulled back slightly upon brake release.
You'll never get a good pedal until you wear the pads down somewhat.
After brake bleeding, remove one pad and substitute an old thin one, then pump the brakes.
Push the piston back and repeat. Do this at least two times for each piston.
You will notice an improved pedal with each one you do.
Yes, it's tedious; but you can't do it any other way that I'm aware of.
I've been preaching this for close to 50 years, and can't believe it still is a mystery to everybody.