worn

After a reasonably successful rebuild I have an oil leak. It is where the left chain case meets the crank case. Originally I thought it was just the cover, but it isn't. Only leaks while running, so I think the leak is towards the bottom. Is there any way to pull the chain case away from the crankcase about a centimeter, so as to replace the gasket with sealant and re-torque?

Do I have to pull the motor and take off the case entirely? Thanks folks. I know I don't post here much.

Super90

Based on your description, to fix it properly, the only way I know to do it, is to remove the chain box, replace the gasket, re-install the box, re-time the cam, and button it up.

You have to get it down to here....

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

This is correct.

theiceman

I would certainly try it in car before dropping the whole motor. I would remove all the engine tin , the muffler and assess. But first I would be be absolutely sure that's where it is leaking from as that's a pretty good gasket there and a lot of the leaks from that area will run to the bottom of that chain box.i would examine the rocker shafts in that area very closely (cyl 1 or 4 depending on side ) as I had a rocker walk shortly after a rebuild.

I would not want to do this repair in car if it was my first time , but now I'm familiar with retiming cams and rebuilding that area I wouldn't think twice about at least trying it in car. What I don't know is if you have enough clearance to move the box off the studs with the cam coming through hole at the back of the box , but id try it. Its only a couple nuts to put back on temporarily secure I t if It doesn't work and you decide to drop engine.

worn

I was thinking that I would carefully mark and wire the chain to the sprocket. Marking the holes the pin is in, and take off the sprocket. If I am super careful I should be able to keep things just as they were. Then I would try to pull off the chain case. I would NOT fire up the engine on reassembly. Instead I would turn things over by hand. I think I still have my notes from my initial valve timing and would check on cylinder 1 to see if it is still the same. Might as well pull the valve covers anyway and check the valve clearances as I am over 500 miles since I rebuilt the engine.
Here in Wisconsin we are in cold storage mode anyhow.

Thanks for the responses and please chime in. If I succeed should I post? Or might that produce false bravado?

Mark Salvetti

worn

Super90

I do NOT claim to be an expert but, I'll share what I did. First read the procedure over and over, in the books and manuals and watch Stomski's video, and then realize there are some parts he doesn't clearly explain, then study some more till you think you know it in your sleep.

Then, get the dial gauge and z-block or the Stomski tool and do several "dry runs" to make certain you TOTALLY understand the cam timing as it is now....

I was working on a 2.2 motor from a 1970 T and the spec was 2.30 to 2.70. You need to get your spec. Then check and recheck to be sure you have the procedure down.




Then I set it up at TDC for #1, and marked the chain and sprocket and where the pin is in the sprocket.



Then I pulled the tensioner, the sprocket nut and shims and the sprocket and the woodruff key, and then the ramp. I'm almost to that point here... By the way, you can see the total hack job where someone tried to fix the box with JB Weld, but it leaked. That's why I pulled the box.



Sprocket removed.



Then remove the flange and seals and then the box comes off, with a lot of wiggling and contorting.




Then, I got a new box from my shop, cleaned the heck out of everything, and put it in, then put in a mechanical tensioner, and checked the timing. It changed a little but still very close to the middle of the spec range. I called it good.








Then I also needed the tool for the 930 tensioner installation. I also used the Stomski tool for the nut on the camshaft. On my engine that was so much better than the crowsfoot style rig.

Lot's of places to go wrong here. Glad I did it on the stand my first time, and that my local shop is one of the preeminent air-cooled shops in the country with many decades of experience which they generously were willing to share, along with finding me a chain box in their attic !!

This obviously a very rough summary....lots more details to be aware of...

worn

That was what I had in mind. Of course your pictures show the engine out of the car, which would certainly be easier. I should add that I did the rebuild myself, so I have the tools and have done the cam timing. I milled a Z block and have the dial indicators and the cam card. It's always something.