Yes, dry fit makes sense. I did do this with the crankshaft assembly, which is where I am starting. I did this to measure bearing clearances as well.

I am using Wayne's book and Anderson's book, plus other research I have done. I do have access to folks for help when needed.

Should be a good experience - at least I can take my time as I don't have a car waiting for it lol.

Subscribed and look forward to watching the updates!

Thanks!

Crankshaft assembly is complete! Took my time and it went fairly smoothly. Properly cleaned/prepped everything, applied assembly lube as needed and torqued the bolts to specs. Since I used ARP bolts, I did not use Loctite on the threads as they do not recommend it. This would be fine for stock bolts. I also used a bolt stretch gauge as ARP recommended to ensure the correct tension.

Here is a link to my YouTube if you are interestrd in more detail
Finished crankshaft assembly:




What are the odds of getting a rod with these numbers!

Rods with 911 stamped on them has to be a good sign, right?

Agreed! I thought it was cool

Good job. Great to see the attention to detail and the cleanliness been used.

To clear up a myth about rod bolts though. They are not a stretch bolt. They do need to be stretched to tighten as this removes the fiction element. But they are not a stretch bolt. You often see stretch bolts used in modern engines for head bolts, main caps and now in some "cracked" rods. These are typically used as they are less expensive to make and in situations where full replacement parts are typical. Modern throwaway engines.

Porsche 911 rod bolts can be stretched many times as long as they return to their free length. The free length should always be measured before assembly. After some use in a running engine it is always a good idea to change. They are put under the most stress when the piston goes over TDC on the overlap stroke. Brand new bolts could get stretched 3 times, 2 times before they touch a crank journal. 1st time, fitted to the rods to resize the big end after the caps have been dressed, a 2nd time on measuring the rod ID size and a 3rd time on assemble to the crank.

Also, always fit the new bolts before measuring and doing any resizing of the big ends. This is critical when using smaller clearance numbers. There is too much fear regarding rod bolts, Unnecessary fear in my opinion. I'm a lot more concerned about more critical fasteners in engines than rod bolts. I have been building engines for many years and can count on one hand the number of times a bolt broke and still have fingers left. It always was never the bolts fault.

Also, do all tightening is a smooth uninterrupted manner.

Loctite should never be used on any rod nut or bolt. Period! Who ever decided this,does not understand how fasteners get tightened. Its like those locking tabs that are fitted to the oil pump. Why? There is absolutely no reason to fit those. If the threads in the case are not of quality the stud will come out with the nut still tightened and fitted with the tab. If the threads on the stud are of quality and the nut is as well, torqued to 18 Ft/lbs, they will never come loose.

If it gives you peace of mind to fit do so, but it is unnecessary. There are more important areas of these engines to be concerned about, and typically never given.

^thanks for the info, Neil! I am a complete novice so this is good info for me, but also to anyone else reading or following along. I did read debates over the rod bolts in forums - but I have no experience to debate anyone on this topic for sure.

Question for you - I also read debates over using or not using the original steel head studs in a rebuild. These are not the Divilar type. Mine look fine and several have said to reuse them if there is no evidence of cracks or damage. Several have said they have never seen a steel head stud break. I solved the issue of pulled head studs by having the machinist put inserts in the case.

AFAIK, ARP specs. torque to stretch on their product b/c it is more accurate than a torque wrench.

Bill,

Yes, reuse the steel studs as long as they are in good condition. Keep going and if you run up against anything you are not sure of, ask, Plenty of knowledgeable people here will help.

Awesome - great to know this as I was close to purchasing some new ones. Mine look very good - even came back clean from the machinist. Thanks

Well, it is official - my car made it to the painter! Wasn’t sure this day would ever come. I will provide an update once I go meet with Shane East to discuss the paintwork.

In case you didn’t get enough rust repair photos, here were the last few I took before the car left the sheetmetal shop.

Rust in lower section of passenger front fender is gone. A decent amount of the bottom was cut off and a piece grafted.




Hood aligned:




Door gaps much better. Painter will do final adjustments.

how long do you suspect it will be at paint?

once done, will you do the gaskets/assembly yourself?

^with my luck it will be at paint for months I should know more soon - Shane said he was going to assess the car and firm up time and costs. Once that is ready, I plan to go meet with him to discuss and will report back. I hope I have the car back before the Fall.

I am planning to completely reassemble the car in my garage. More challenges ahead

Still going signal yellow?