'72 911T Hot Rod Build
02-23-2019, 03:21 PM
#256
Drifting
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Spyerx
Did you chase down 3.5" brake spacing S spindles?
I think I'm just going to get the brembo AM fronts that PMB sells. I already have everything sorted and back together, clean, suspension is all new and refinished. I didn't want to bother with these at the time, but I know I'm going to want more heat management at the front end, i know my driving style :-)
The front brakes + a secondary cooler at the 2 things left for now on my list. Oh that and a few minor interior clean up things.
I think I'm just going to get the brembo AM fronts that PMB sells. I already have everything sorted and back together, clean, suspension is all new and refinished. I didn't want to bother with these at the time, but I know I'm going to want more heat management at the front end, i know my driving style :-)
The front brakes + a secondary cooler at the 2 things left for now on my list. Oh that and a few minor interior clean up things.
02-24-2019, 04:00 PM
#257
Rennlist Member
02-24-2019, 05:03 PM
#258
Drifting
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Spyerx
i kinda regret not, thing is the HD inserts seems to be back ordered? or maybe that's for just boge. anyway, we'll see once i finally get this thing back. i'm not in a big hurry and shop had a couple urgent things come up they needed to work on (like things any 911 person will know about once they are public :-) )
02-24-2019, 07:16 PM
#259
Drifting
Thread Starter
Andy Elsener (www.andyelsener.com) surveyed my car yesterday. Good news is that he said I was headed in the right direction with my work, bad news was that his estimate to finish the job was higher than I expected it to be. I am sure he is at the higher end of the cost scale as he is well regarded for his work. He is a very cool guy. He spent almost 2 hours at my house looking at the car, giving me pointers and the just bs'ing. Not many people would be willing to do these things. He also told me that I can finish up all of what he called the "grunt work" to save on costs. He is also willing to give advice and help along the way including spending time at his shop. I am going to keep pushing forward with what he recommended. Here is what he said I should do:
- stop cutting until I have the replacement pieces so I can mark cutting lines and check fitment.
- he discussed parts that I need to buy. I am going to be placing an order for a number of replacement sheet metal pieces today or early this week.
- he recommended keeping as much of the original metal as possible and just graft in the sections that need to be cut out, rather than replacing the entire replacement panel/piece. I have several pieces that I will be buying, but just cutting out the sections that I need from the pieces. He said he will be doing butt welding in areas where the pieces need to be grafted and you would never know the repairs were done.
- I need to clean off the parcel shelf with a wire wheel to assess the extent of the rust. This is a specific area where he said I am better off cutting out sections of bad and grafting pieces in instead of removing the entire parcel shelf. He said this is a tough job to replace the entire parcel shelf. My buddy was telling me the same thing.
- I need to use a heat gun to carefully peel back the areas where the headliner is attached around the rear window seal channel and around the parcel shelf in order to examine and prep areas. My headliner is perfect so I am trying to keep it.
- he pointed out where I should cut out the rear seat buckets but again recommended to wait for new parts to come before cutting them out. He also said to remove the motor and transmission as well as the rear suspension - all of the hard work I had done with the rear suspension needs to be undone
except I can keep the spring plates on to keep them indexed etc.
- his shop has dolly's that my car will need to be placed on once it is ready to be taken to his shop - he is able to help out with this as well. It helps that his shop isn't far from my house.
So I am pushing forward on this project. I am hoping to do a bunch more work to cut back on what I am going to have to pay him or another shop. I do have a couple other shops that were recommended to me - if I decide to call others. My car already had a poor suspension pan replacement and I have so much removed up front now that I want an expert aligning everything up there. He said he sees poor work like my suspension pan all of the time. I may just stick with his shop knowing that they are very good.
- stop cutting until I have the replacement pieces so I can mark cutting lines and check fitment.
- he discussed parts that I need to buy. I am going to be placing an order for a number of replacement sheet metal pieces today or early this week.
- he recommended keeping as much of the original metal as possible and just graft in the sections that need to be cut out, rather than replacing the entire replacement panel/piece. I have several pieces that I will be buying, but just cutting out the sections that I need from the pieces. He said he will be doing butt welding in areas where the pieces need to be grafted and you would never know the repairs were done.
- I need to clean off the parcel shelf with a wire wheel to assess the extent of the rust. This is a specific area where he said I am better off cutting out sections of bad and grafting pieces in instead of removing the entire parcel shelf. He said this is a tough job to replace the entire parcel shelf. My buddy was telling me the same thing.
- I need to use a heat gun to carefully peel back the areas where the headliner is attached around the rear window seal channel and around the parcel shelf in order to examine and prep areas. My headliner is perfect so I am trying to keep it.
- he pointed out where I should cut out the rear seat buckets but again recommended to wait for new parts to come before cutting them out. He also said to remove the motor and transmission as well as the rear suspension - all of the hard work I had done with the rear suspension needs to be undone
except I can keep the spring plates on to keep them indexed etc.- his shop has dolly's that my car will need to be placed on once it is ready to be taken to his shop - he is able to help out with this as well. It helps that his shop isn't far from my house.
So I am pushing forward on this project. I am hoping to do a bunch more work to cut back on what I am going to have to pay him or another shop. I do have a couple other shops that were recommended to me - if I decide to call others. My car already had a poor suspension pan replacement and I have so much removed up front now that I want an expert aligning everything up there. He said he sees poor work like my suspension pan all of the time. I may just stick with his shop knowing that they are very good.
Last edited by myflat6; 02-24-2019 at 07:44 PM.
02-24-2019, 10:06 PM
#260
you may have to talk to Dave B. (TRE) about putting some pieces in to stiffen the unit body - he did wonders with a raspberry car...
since you are in for many pennies might as well be in for a pound
since you are in for many pennies might as well be in for a pound
02-24-2019, 11:58 PM
#261
Rennlist Member
My rule with cars and houses is double then add 50% on top. It minimizes stress and is usually pretty spot on.
But at some point you have assess where to spend the big bux vs perfection. These are in demand cars but they aren’t S or RS. But, if keeping, worth doing right. Or doing well. It may be worth getting another look and see if there is balance to be found.
But. When it’s done will be awesome.
But at some point you have assess where to spend the big bux vs perfection. These are in demand cars but they aren’t S or RS. But, if keeping, worth doing right. Or doing well. It may be worth getting another look and see if there is balance to be found.
But. When it’s done will be awesome.
02-25-2019, 01:06 AM
#263
Drifting
Thread Starter
So I got some work done today. I removed the door window frames and added them to my collection of parts inside my house
Then decided to start preparing my car for the motor drop. I removed the air cleaner assembly, the shift linkage, clutch and throttle linkage and fuel lines and all of the wiring connections. Still need to remove an oil line and disconnect the axles. I also removed the cooling tin from around the motor as I am trying to get this thing to fit between my lift rails. It is going to be very close based on my measurements - I mean very close (maybe half an inch - and may need to remove the oil cooler too). The good news is that this should make the motor drop a lot easier since I will just disconnect the carrier bolts and hit the lift button!
Then decided to start preparing my car for the motor drop. I removed the air cleaner assembly, the shift linkage, clutch and throttle linkage and fuel lines and all of the wiring connections. Still need to remove an oil line and disconnect the axles. I also removed the cooling tin from around the motor as I am trying to get this thing to fit between my lift rails. It is going to be very close based on my measurements - I mean very close (maybe half an inch - and may need to remove the oil cooler too). The good news is that this should make the motor drop a lot easier since I will just disconnect the carrier bolts and hit the lift button!
03-03-2019, 06:25 PM
#264
Drifting
Thread Starter
Didn't get as much done this weekend due to the Porsche Literature Show Weekend. Took Friday off and spent all day going to various open houses, spent Sat at more open houses and this morning at the swap meet. Saw a beautiful '72 Signal Yellow near completion at CPR that gave me extra motivation.
Anyway, I picked up all the stuff I had media blasted last week. Photo below shows the suspension parts that I prepped and shot with epoxy primer after the photo. I wanted to seal that stuff up before it started to rust again. While the primer was drying, I finished removing the trim around the windows and the door handles. All of the trim has now been removed. Gonna clean all the trim up and see how it looks with some elbow grease to see if it needs full restoration or not.
Anyway, I picked up all the stuff I had media blasted last week. Photo below shows the suspension parts that I prepped and shot with epoxy primer after the photo. I wanted to seal that stuff up before it started to rust again. While the primer was drying, I finished removing the trim around the windows and the door handles. All of the trim has now been removed. Gonna clean all the trim up and see how it looks with some elbow grease to see if it needs full restoration or not.
03-09-2019, 11:27 PM
#266
Drifting
Thread Starter
^ I debated the aluminum trailing arms and front cross member - may just stick with stock. The rear trailing arms are really the key upgrade from what I have read - both lighter and stronger - and at the rear of the car. The cross member is lighter but some questions about strength particularly with the torsion adjustments. Anyway, prob sticking stock anyhow.
03-09-2019, 11:35 PM
#267
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well, the tear down continues. Dropped the motor and trans today. It just barely (maybe 1/4") cleared my lift rails. Went pretty smoothly - the wife came out and spotted while the lift went up - managed to successfully disconnect everything except the ground - she caught it when the lift started to go up.
Now I have the access I need to remove the rear seat buckets.
Now I have the access I need to remove the rear seat buckets.
03-11-2019, 11:48 PM
#268
Drifting
Thread Starter
I got a good deal on a set of Bilsteins off Pelican. Needed these to go with my S calipers for the 3.5" spacing. I had them media blasted and I repainted them in John Deer green (according to my research, this is a close match to early Bilstein green). The inserts have low use on them but it will be having them revalved with my Bilstein rear shocks.
Before and after photos
Before and after photos
Last edited by myflat6; 03-12-2019 at 12:14 AM.
