87 G50 clutch pedal failure
09-29-2018, 08:10 PM
#1
87 G50 clutch pedal failure
87 911 with reported 2K miles on clutch? drove into garage pushed in clutch to stop and pedal went to floor. Felt like a connection failed and not just soft. I pulled the pedal back up. If I depress it again at a certain point it pops to the floor, almost spring like.
What should I look for when I pull up the floor boards? Does the pedal connection ever shear off?
What should I look for when I pull up the floor boards? Does the pedal connection ever shear off?
09-30-2018, 09:34 AM
#2
Racer
You have a hydrolic clutch. First check your fluid reservoir and fill/bleed as required. Check for leaks.
09-30-2018, 01:33 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
09-30-2018, 03:12 PM
#4
Looked at brake fluid reservoir(which is also clutch fluid reservoir) and level is correct. The pedal cluster seems intact- I push the clutch pedal down and rod moves. How do I know if it is master cylinder or slave cylinder?
I seems that master cyl is replaced from inside car near pedal cluster. Slave is done from underneath? Neither seems fixed from trunk. Right? Is there a DIY thread c pictures?
Thanks
I seems that master cyl is replaced from inside car near pedal cluster. Slave is done from underneath? Neither seems fixed from trunk. Right? Is there a DIY thread c pictures?
Thanks
09-30-2018, 06:36 PM
#5
Nordschleife Master
The clutch slave is mounted on the transmission bell housing.
I would start with bleeding the hydraulics, this is done at the clutch slave cylinder. What your experiencing is indicative of air in the lines.
I would start with bleeding the hydraulics, this is done at the clutch slave cylinder. What your experiencing is indicative of air in the lines.
10-01-2018, 12:49 AM
#6
I had no symptoms before failure. If its on the bell housing then I bleed from underneath the car? Is it possible to fix by just bleeding? How did air get in without any other problem eg master/slave/hose failure?
The accel pedal reportedly "snaps out"of its control rod. Is there a trick?
The accel pedal reportedly "snaps out"of its control rod. Is there a trick?
10-01-2018, 01:00 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
Could be master
could he slave
worst case you broke shift fork
you’ll want to get the car up on a lift and check things out.
you can remove slave but it is a huge pain to get at
but try bleeding first. If you can’t get it to bleed it could be master.
could he slave
worst case you broke shift fork
you’ll want to get the car up on a lift and check things out.
you can remove slave but it is a huge pain to get at
but try bleeding first. If you can’t get it to bleed it could be master.
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10-01-2018, 10:53 PM
#8
Nordschleife Master
Air could have been pulled in if the bleed screw wasn't tight, or the seals on the master / slave are starting to fail. This is the easy to check and only costs a container of brake fluid and about an hour of time.
Bleeding can be done by removing the driver rear wheel. With car properly supported on jack stands, you can sit right at the wheel well and reach through to the bleed screw. Much of this is done by feel, but its very do-able.
If master cylinder has failed, it can be removed by disconnecting the clevis / linkage at the pedal cluster. Its recommended to change both the slave and master at the same time (they wear equally). Replacing the slave can be a pain in the butt... slave has to held against the bell housing (over coming spring force) to keep the piston pushed in while you get the bolts started.
Bleeding can be done by removing the driver rear wheel. With car properly supported on jack stands, you can sit right at the wheel well and reach through to the bleed screw. Much of this is done by feel, but its very do-able.
If master cylinder has failed, it can be removed by disconnecting the clevis / linkage at the pedal cluster. Its recommended to change both the slave and master at the same time (they wear equally). Replacing the slave can be a pain in the butt... slave has to held against the bell housing (over coming spring force) to keep the piston pushed in while you get the bolts started.
10-02-2018, 03:08 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
Had same issue with my '96 C4S....... Replaced master & slave but hose was out of stock and had to come from Germany...... Part request was listed as "car down" which, I assume, is an expired order.
10-03-2018, 12:29 AM
#13
found problem. pedal cluster break. pin holding clutch master clevis broke. will need to take apart pedal cluster. will need lever #24
911 423 519 01911
are there rebuild kits? any DIYs for this?
911 423 519 01911
are there rebuild kits? any DIYs for this?
10-03-2018, 04:36 PM
#15
never saw a kit
soak the bronze bushings in oil before installation (I used a wine glass)... some use plastic but I was told that bronze was better by people who should know
get the correct pin punch for the hardened pin before trying to drive it out - it must be absolutely flat or the pin can be mushroomed or expanded when driving and you will curse over it for days or weeks
I replated some parts instead of paint to ensure longevity & rust resistance
be prepared for rust under the pedal cluster !! - it will not be seen until it is out; you can use some dum-dum on any fasteners that penetrate the body shell to help keep out water
- that's about all I recall on this job
soak the bronze bushings in oil before installation (I used a wine glass)... some use plastic but I was told that bronze was better by people who should know
get the correct pin punch for the hardened pin before trying to drive it out - it must be absolutely flat or the pin can be mushroomed or expanded when driving and you will curse over it for days or weeks
I replated some parts instead of paint to ensure longevity & rust resistance
be prepared for rust under the pedal cluster !! - it will not be seen until it is out; you can use some dum-dum on any fasteners that penetrate the body shell to help keep out water
- that's about all I recall on this job