hanzonn

Hello All,

I've been looking at & test driving 86' Coupes. Prices seem to range between 16K-19K or so, depending upon mileage, condition, etc. A couple of questions:
1 - Are these prices in the ballpark for SOCAL?
2 - Does the price trend seem to be going up, down, or have they stabilized?
3 - Does anybody have any recommendations for a PPI in San Diego?

Thanks for your time.

Greg

Chris Picklo

In my honest opintion, there are a lot of idiots out there overpricing their cars and letting them "sit" on the market.

This gives a false idea of what the car is worth, and other people (usually not true enthusiasts) overprice their cars. A good idea for the prices (nationawide) would be the most recent Excellence edition with the late carreras price guide. For example, in FLA riht now there's an 87' carrera with 123k miles without records for $21,000.

For a 100k car with records (couple?) and in above average condition cosmetically, I'd expect to pay $17,500.

You also want to consider what year you want. I personally prefer the 915 over the G-50 (and the weight difference, of course), yet others have trouble shifting the 915, and prefer the 87' - 89' G-50 tranny.

Chris

AHEDAU

Quit rubbing in the fact you have access to the most abundant supply of cheap 911's in the world. ;-)

Anything under $20K for an 86 and you are laughing. Where I'm from, you pay that for an 84.

I recently sold my 81 SC w/75K for $16K...

Personally, I would bank based on whats in my garage that prices are at minimum, stable...

RMA

get a PPI my friend.

i would say 16 t0 20k for an 86 carrera - depending on cond. of course

Good luck - It was the best birthday present ive ever bought myself.

AHEDAU

Thats the cheapest I've ever heard of.
Was the carfax dirty?

ZCAT3

Obviously prices vary geographically, but Chris seems to be in the right ballpark IMO. I am getting ready to sell my 87 Coupe that is in very good cosmetic and mechanical shape and has tons of extra goodies: turbo tie rods, Bilstein HDs front and rear, 22/27 hollow torsion bars, euro cat pipe, Mass Air Flow and chip (good for a dyno tested 210 RWHP - 30 more than stock), clear bra, full leather sport seats, extra set of tires for AutoX or DE use (BBS 7x8s with Yokohoma R compound tires), Turbo S steering wheel with spacer and colored crest, numeric oil temp gauge, magnecor spark plug wires, new distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter, upgraded Sanden AC compressor with new barrier hose, etc. etc. The car has 117K on the odo. In testing the waters regarding price, people seem to thnk I should strip all of the performance goodies off that I can and sell it stock in the 17 - 18K range (and then sell the performance parts on the side). I would prefer to sell it as a package as it sits, but it seems I will loose my shirt if I do that.

RMA

Carfax wasnt dirty at all.

AHEDAU

Wouldn't the fact a 911's been used as an autoX vehicle negatively impact it's value?
I'd be leary of any vehicle with extensive performance upgrades over OEM. Subsequent purchasers might be budgeting for excessive wear and tear.

pig4bill

Unless you buy your car from Mother Theresa how are you going to know whether it's been autocrossed or not in the last 17 years?

The last 3.2 Carrera I looked at was about 3 months ago, it was an 87 that had about 200k miles on it but it ran strong and didn't smoke, was probably an 8 or 9 cosmetically, and the dealer's asking price was in the 14's.

ZCAT3

If a car is a dedicated track car or competetive AutoX car I could see some worry. In my case, I have used the car at 3 DE events - not exactly hard on the car. It basically gets driven for 2 or so hours in the day under heavy throttle. The brakes may get some wear and the carbon build-up gets cleaned out. In my experience, most people who do ocassional DEs or AutoXs with their cars maintain them at a much higher level than people who just drive them on the weekends or as a commuter.

Chris Picklo

Zcat - what kind of roll cage is that? Is it hard to get in/out?

cdp

ZCAT3

Chris - that is a DAS rollbar. It is fairly easy to get in but you must remove one seat to do so.

I am still mulling over the earlier comment that a car with non-OEM parts is not as good as a stock car. I know a lot of people may fee this way - I may have at one time. But it is short-sighted to think that in 17 years technology for these cars has not improved (while at the same time the original parts in the car have tired). My car has had the suspension completely refreshed - there is no doubt that the Bilstein HD gas pressure shocks are far superior to the OEM Boge shocks. And the original AC system in these cars is a joke - the hoses must be replaced to hold a charge for any length of time. There are so many things you can do to improve these cars that the real problem is knowing when to stop.

Chris Picklo

Bill-

Agreed - improve your car without going overboard.

What do you mean by removing once seat? Does it come up high where the passenger door is?

Chris

ZCAT3

Chris- it is a one piece roll bar that mounts to the rear seat back joint and on the floor near where the front seat belts mount. The reason the seat needs to come out is to get the bar into the car.

Noel

I would much rather have a car that had the suspension refreshed with new bushings, even if it was done with non-standard upgraded parts. Any pre 89 car with the stock suspension needs new bushings at this point anyway, no question about it. This is not a matter of miles but of age and the flow of the stock bushing material after 15+ years of weight resting on them.

That being said, the pricing of the pre 89 cars now has more to do with condition and records than of milage and general market values. You will alway find someone that got the same model year car for less, but it is not the same car. Different purchasers have different requirements for cars. It took me over a year before I found the car that met my requirements. That being said, I'm sure the previous two owners would not like the fact that I track it and have upgraded the suspension.

Noel