Amber Gramps

You can see (sorta) on the side of my car that there isn't just a hole for the torsion bar, but there is an entire removable door for the removal of the spring plate. The entire panel comes off and leaves a much bigger opening.....the tranny is that much wider.

Tremelune

When people say "poor man's Singer" they literally mean widebody backdate.

If you're willing to go fiberglass, Getty makes the best stuff and they have every piece you'd need to do a backdate:

http://www.gettydesign.com/

If you want to go steel, you need to find stock longhood parts and weld 930 flares onto them (or whatever flare profile you're after). If you're willing to keep the car "narrow", you can just find longhood parts and they (sort of) bolt right up. You do have to cut a bit out of the rear of the chassis to make space for the bumper.

I would go with a 3.2 motor and a 915 transmission—they bolt right in. A 3.6 will be twice the price for 50hp. A 3.0 will not be much cheaper and you'll lose maybe 20hp. To get a G50 in requires a shortened bellhousing (available from Patrick Motorsports) or ideally welding in the G50 stuff...You really want someone who has done many cars to do this work.

I think the equation might be very, very different for you in Croatia based on the availability of parts.

Tremelune

For what it's worth, the first thing I would do is get an engine and transmission in the car, then put a few thousand miles on it. You may find that your priorities change after driving it for a while.

Mr.Anderson

I would talk to Anna Thom in Poland. Her and her husband make great steel panels and other parts to help you backdate the car. You will have to do some digging around to find the parts or PM me and I can send you their email address. I have a 1972 that I'm converting into a ST. I used a 3.4 twin plug motor. Which may be a good choice for you. Over 300hp is achievable and you can use the cheaper 915 trans if you use the Wevo upgrade parts. If you go fast don't forget to upgrade your brakes too. A lot of guys are running boxster s brakes with adaptors to run on your 3.5" struts. Every Mod is a slippery slope...

Amber Gramps

I don't think you need anything beyond a stock 3,2. My engine is bone stock other than the DME chip and the modern 4 spittle injectors. Yes, I've got the Bisimoto P/C but I still have the stock cat.... Guys are shocked and almost frightened when they ride along in my lowly cabriolet. It's all about HP to weight ratio. And when guys find out that my car cost me 1/3 what theirs did to build......

gors32

Okay, thanks everybody for info. I decided to go with this idea:
1.buy stock 911 sc( found one, 3.0 engine)
2. buy these parts:Wing Rear Extension. Porsche 930 TurboCode: 93050360700GRV/1
Select Below: LEFT SIDEUpdate
Remove£183.00
Wing Rear Extension. Porsche 930 TurboCode: 93050360800GRV/1
Select Below: RIGHT SIDEUpdate
Remove£176.00
Heat Exchanger Sets Stainless Steel. Porsche 911 1972-74 Mechanical Injection Engines SSICode: 91133091913SSIUpdate
Remove£1,049.00
Rear exhaust, with dual center outlet pipes, "GT3" style, Ø63 mmCode: 1620612200Update
Remove£495.00Remove£495.00
Rear Bumper Lower Valance CUT for Twin outlet Exhaust. Porsche 911 1974-89Code: 91150517108GRV/2Update
Remove£81.00
Steering Wheel Prototipo - Black Lth / Black - MomoCode: M11111525211Update
Remove£159.99
Steering Wheel Boss Fitting Kit MOMO for PorscheCode: MC0231
Select below: 911 1975-89

911 RSR/Turbo IROC Front Bumper 9", '74-on Part# 43A

That is for start. Do you have any suggestions?

Tremelune

I suggest you move slowly. Make sure the car runs and drives as it should, then move on to the backdate work. Buy parts over time as they are needed. Make sure you complete the work that needs to be completed.

gors32

Okay, what should I focus on first?

Tremelune

I would start with getting the motor and transmission in the car, and making sure it drives the way you want. You might find a car that runs and drives well or one that stalls, hesitates, and wanders all over the road. Get that stuff sorted first and go from there.

How much experience do you have doing body or mechanic work like this? This is...a very large, expensive undertaking that can be a lot of rewarding fun...

If you have pictures of the car and motor, post 'em! Everybody likes pictures...

gors32

Car is running very good, no problems there. I have experienced friend by my side to help me if I get stuck. I was wondering for these parts, did i choose good parts for my car? I realize it is expensive project, but I can buy these parts right now and everything else I can buy over time.

r911

1st - brakes - just maintain them properly if the rubber hoses & fluid are not new

2nd - suspension - repl. any original bushings with your choice of new or Elph. Polybronze; torsion bars to suit; digressive shocks

3rd - usually engine mods, could be interior or paint/body if you want show not go

r911

a lot will depend on fuel quality & parts availability in Croatia...

a Porsche part will cost but will meet TUV

what can you get from the US and at what price? LA is a world center for 911 hot-rodding...

gors32

I could get few parts from USA but mostly I was thinking to order from UK, design911.co.uk. I posted parts what I want to order from them few posts back.

Amber Gramps

Take a good long look at what Dave at TRE has to offer. He's got a "longhood" that works on the "shorthoot" tub utilizing the existing front latch plate on your car.... in other words you don't have to rebuild the entire front of the car to backdate.

Can I ask why you would go with 930 flares when more appropriate flares are out there?

http://tremotorsports.com/

http://tremotorsports.com/exterior/t...ate-65-73-hood

gors32

What are more appropriate flares in your opinion? I like 930 flares but I am open to suggestions. I looked at TRE motorsport and I think they do not ship to Croatia.