Leak after tensioner upgrade
#16
Before taking time back at the shop I'd say just give the bolt a little extra twist, wipe the area down and see if it comes back. If I remember right there's a lot of wiggle room on torquing those things so it's easy to miss.
I've had shop under-torque valve covers too, so things happen.
I've had shop under-torque valve covers too, so things happen.
#17
Team Owner
Ok hold on not so fast ..deep breath everyone..
Firstly before you go tightening it an extra bit you want to make sure those crush washers were actually replaced. a lot of time shops forget to order them and try to refuse old ones . tighting it risks breaking the banjo bolt. remember they are hollow. id just put new ones on . ou will likely lose a few rtable spoons of oil. just do it cold.
besides that i'm not so sure its leaking from the banjo bolt. All that bolt does it seal the oil line to the tensioner . it could be leaking but don't assume that. There is also supposed to be a rubber oring/seal around hthe outside of the tensioner that seals it to the timing cover. If that was forgotten or damaged it will leake there. it wont matter whats going on with that banjo bolt.
The upgrade kit was aftermarket. Porsche ones are yellow dichromate finish which gives it the yellow look.
Firstly before you go tightening it an extra bit you want to make sure those crush washers were actually replaced. a lot of time shops forget to order them and try to refuse old ones . tighting it risks breaking the banjo bolt. remember they are hollow. id just put new ones on . ou will likely lose a few rtable spoons of oil. just do it cold.
besides that i'm not so sure its leaking from the banjo bolt. All that bolt does it seal the oil line to the tensioner . it could be leaking but don't assume that. There is also supposed to be a rubber oring/seal around hthe outside of the tensioner that seals it to the timing cover. If that was forgotten or damaged it will leake there. it wont matter whats going on with that banjo bolt.
The upgrade kit was aftermarket. Porsche ones are yellow dichromate finish which gives it the yellow look.
#18
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The shop installed a new chain tensioner upgrade kit? Because that banjo fitting and oil line look pretty well used to me. Same with the bolt that goes through the banjo fitting. Shouldn't it look new, like the Pelican photo?
Mark
Mark
#19
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#21
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Iceman is referring to the silver finish on the new cam oil line hose fittings, instead of yellow cadmium plated. But it may be OK, according to this thread they are all silver now (see post #2):
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...t-carrier.html
I was commenting on your photos of the lower bolt where the thin metal oil line connects to the chain cover. The fittings and oil line looked used to me, but from your latest photos taken from the top, everything looks new. So maybe it's just the lighting.
Ask them if they replaced your idler arms, which hold the sprocket. Your 1978 should have an early style. When you upgrade to pressure-fed tensioners, the early arms can either be supplemented with some thick spacers, or replaced with a newer style that has a thicker bearing surface. Replacement is preferred. You can see a description with some photos on this page:
Timing Chains and Tensioners
The other thing I don't like in your last photo is the tiny gap they left where the thin oil line goes down through the engine sheet metal on the right side. I'd be worried when things heat up and expand that the oil line may touch the sheet metal and eventually wear through. I think they should have made a larger gap, but you can do that yourself pretty easily.
Mark
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...t-carrier.html
I was commenting on your photos of the lower bolt where the thin metal oil line connects to the chain cover. The fittings and oil line looked used to me, but from your latest photos taken from the top, everything looks new. So maybe it's just the lighting.
Ask them if they replaced your idler arms, which hold the sprocket. Your 1978 should have an early style. When you upgrade to pressure-fed tensioners, the early arms can either be supplemented with some thick spacers, or replaced with a newer style that has a thicker bearing surface. Replacement is preferred. You can see a description with some photos on this page:
Timing Chains and Tensioners
The other thing I don't like in your last photo is the tiny gap they left where the thin oil line goes down through the engine sheet metal on the right side. I'd be worried when things heat up and expand that the oil line may touch the sheet metal and eventually wear through. I think they should have made a larger gap, but you can do that yourself pretty easily.
Mark
#22
Maybe it's just the photo, but to me, the lines and fittings in these latter pictures look brand new, where as the Banjo and fitting in the initial pics from below the car do not.
It could just from oil coating the pieces, giving the impression they're older, but idk man... looks used almost.
It could just from oil coating the pieces, giving the impression they're older, but idk man... looks used almost.
#24
Team Owner
Oh Maybe Porsche ones are silver now, I stand corrected. But it did look odd that there were no markings on the rubber or on he metal anywhere.
I did think the bolt and banjo didn't look brand new either , but I attributed that to just dirt sticking to the oil.
I did think the bolt and banjo didn't look brand new either , but I attributed that to just dirt sticking to the oil.
#25
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Yeah, sorry, didn't mean to disagree with you. I thought those silver lines looked odd (sort of cheapish) myself, and then I remembered that thread I linked to over at Pelican. Took me a while to find it. But I don't know for sure.
The bolt and banjo appearance still looks weird given how shiny the top lines are, but I guess that's just the way they are. Curious if the shop replaced the idler arms with the new style, though.
Mark
The bolt and banjo appearance still looks weird given how shiny the top lines are, but I guess that's just the way they are. Curious if the shop replaced the idler arms with the new style, though.
Mark
#26
Team Owner
yeah I would hope. I just did a thread a couple days ago to a guy who wanted tensioners. More tensioner failures seem to be attributed to those idler arms than anything.
Maybe im just paranoid too , I always think guys who are fixing something after the fact will try to do it as cheap as possible so it doesn't cut into the Margin. This is why I try to do everything myself.
Maybe im just paranoid too , I always think guys who are fixing something after the fact will try to do it as cheap as possible so it doesn't cut into the Margin. This is why I try to do everything myself.
#28
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The installer just cut a V shape snippet out of the engine tin. The hole need to be big enough that the oil line never touched it. I'll go snap a picture of mine........