What do you think my rebuild cost will be
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
What do you think my rebuild cost will be
Hey Guys,
Just wanted to see what you guys think my rebuild cost will be for my 944 Turbo since the cylinder wall cracked and is shot. Here is what I will be having done. My mechanic will be handling everything as I don't have the facility to do this kind of work.
I will source a new to me used block. (Have a few people with a block, my mechanic may have one as well, so I'm waiting to hear from him tomorrow)
Darton Sleeves (All machine work as well to make it a sleeved motor)
J&E Pistons for 2.8 liter
Pauter Rods (Very possible that I will use the stock rods)
Lighten stock 2.5 crankshaft
KEP 1 Pressure Plate
Lightened flywheel
Sachs Cup Clutch
All new bearings, seals, etc.
My mechanic will do a complete head job with big valves for $2700. I have all the other parts on the car listed in my signature.
Also- Do you think it would be better for me to try to negotiate an "out the door" price on everything upfront including tuning, or just do the old wait and see? Do you think I have negotiating power?
My mechanic said he would help me out since the car has been there almost a month getting everything in my signature added.
What kind of labor hours am I looking at to get this finished?
All input is greatly appreciated and welcomed. Please let me know if there is anything else I missed. I'm sure there are a lot of little things I can't think of.
Thanks,
Chris
Just wanted to see what you guys think my rebuild cost will be for my 944 Turbo since the cylinder wall cracked and is shot. Here is what I will be having done. My mechanic will be handling everything as I don't have the facility to do this kind of work.
I will source a new to me used block. (Have a few people with a block, my mechanic may have one as well, so I'm waiting to hear from him tomorrow)
Darton Sleeves (All machine work as well to make it a sleeved motor)
J&E Pistons for 2.8 liter
Pauter Rods (Very possible that I will use the stock rods)
Lighten stock 2.5 crankshaft
KEP 1 Pressure Plate
Lightened flywheel
Sachs Cup Clutch
All new bearings, seals, etc.
My mechanic will do a complete head job with big valves for $2700. I have all the other parts on the car listed in my signature.
Also- Do you think it would be better for me to try to negotiate an "out the door" price on everything upfront including tuning, or just do the old wait and see? Do you think I have negotiating power?
My mechanic said he would help me out since the car has been there almost a month getting everything in my signature added.
What kind of labor hours am I looking at to get this finished?
All input is greatly appreciated and welcomed. Please let me know if there is anything else I missed. I'm sure there are a lot of little things I can't think of.
Thanks,
Chris
Last edited by ChrisJ951; 04-17-2011 at 12:24 PM. Reason: Additions
#2
Three Wheelin'
Sorry I don't have any info on price but I'd think an upfront cost "including tuning" would be the way to go!It's much better to have one person in charge and responsible than it is to have everybody and there mother in there tweaking crap!
Isn't the 2.8 the tricky one to tune? Think about how you'd feel if it's all done save for tuning, you go to tune it and blown it the hell up!
You can bet if he's in charge, he's going to be extra careful!
Isn't the 2.8 the tricky one to tune? Think about how you'd feel if it's all done save for tuning, you go to tune it and blown it the hell up!
You can bet if he's in charge, he's going to be extra careful!
#5
Instructor
2700 usd is pretty much for the head, if its not a very very good job. Go for a 3L and source an S2 or 968 block and crank. Add the piston squirters if you go with the S2.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I have a budget and a 968 block and crank will be too much $$$. I figure if I do 2.8 liter pistons, I can always get a 968 crank at a later date if I really wanted too. I think a 2.8 will be just fine though.
#7
Rennlist Member
I would also suggest using a different piston to the JE for a sleeved application.
As far as time and money goes. Think of a number, double it, then double it....you're getting warmer....
As far as time and money goes. Think of a number, double it, then double it....you're getting warmer....
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#9
Instructor
There has apparently been problems with the heat expansion rate with the JEs. No problem though, as there are a lot of brands to choose from if you are going with Dartons. I´d ask Chris White, he knows about Dartons more than anyone here.
#11
Drifting
JE pistons are as good as any other application with steel sleeves or Nicom coating. You have plenty of manufacturers to choose from when using sleeves.
The builder is in charge of piston choice, as long as he has experience with these motors. All forged pistons built out of 2618 alloy have similar/same expansion. JE and other turbo pistons are designed much better than 80's stock replacement factory pistons. Mahle uses the same 2618 alloy in their modern pistons. Mahle also has 4032 high silicon forgings available for use with cast iron or biral type cylinders and will work well with our low boost motors.
Chris White and other engine builders have their favorite choice of pistons. It doesn't matter what you use, what matters is whether your builder has experience building these motors with success.
Trust me, this is not a piston choice debate. If you are paying someone to build your motor, you need to know they have many happy customers using your particular application.
Piston choice is specific to the builder, and truly not that important. There are many great 2.8 motors running well with factory parts.
Trust me, it will not be cheap when done well. If you have a limited budget, do what has worked well over the years. Get a good block, hone it, install a 3.0 crank and use proven parts.
PM me if you need a decent block and all parts for a 2.8. This is one of the best upgrades for our cars with a few bucks to spend. I am not in this business. This would be a referral to folks that I trust.
If you are on a budget, under 15K, just get a good block, and rebuild your motor. You cracked a bore for a reason. You may have other tuning issues.
A well tuned 2.5 car is a blast. Trust me, if you have a budget, get a well sorted 2.5 done.
Good luck,
George
The builder is in charge of piston choice, as long as he has experience with these motors. All forged pistons built out of 2618 alloy have similar/same expansion. JE and other turbo pistons are designed much better than 80's stock replacement factory pistons. Mahle uses the same 2618 alloy in their modern pistons. Mahle also has 4032 high silicon forgings available for use with cast iron or biral type cylinders and will work well with our low boost motors.
Chris White and other engine builders have their favorite choice of pistons. It doesn't matter what you use, what matters is whether your builder has experience building these motors with success.
Trust me, this is not a piston choice debate. If you are paying someone to build your motor, you need to know they have many happy customers using your particular application.
Piston choice is specific to the builder, and truly not that important. There are many great 2.8 motors running well with factory parts.
Trust me, it will not be cheap when done well. If you have a limited budget, do what has worked well over the years. Get a good block, hone it, install a 3.0 crank and use proven parts.
PM me if you need a decent block and all parts for a 2.8. This is one of the best upgrades for our cars with a few bucks to spend. I am not in this business. This would be a referral to folks that I trust.
If you are on a budget, under 15K, just get a good block, and rebuild your motor. You cracked a bore for a reason. You may have other tuning issues.
A well tuned 2.5 car is a blast. Trust me, if you have a budget, get a well sorted 2.5 done.
Good luck,
George
#13
Three Wheelin'
DAMNIT! I was going to say this!
And you sure you want to leave your car in the hands of the same guy that cracked your original block? I really doubt your block was cracked when you delivered it, and it happened while he was trying to tune the engine... something doesn't add up, IMO.
And you sure you want to leave your car in the hands of the same guy that cracked your original block? I really doubt your block was cracked when you delivered it, and it happened while he was trying to tune the engine... something doesn't add up, IMO.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
George- Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it. I will see what figures my mechanic comes back with. I think, regardless I should sleeve the block I buy just to make this new motor as bulletproof as possible.
Carlege- He told me it happened when he was tuning it on the road. I need to ask him what caused this because I don't think its normal for a blown HG to crack a block.
Scott- You have a valid point and I've been thinking about it all weekend. I don't know how to broach that topic. I can have AAA come tow the car out of there and take it to another shop, but regardless I need to do something.
Carlege- He told me it happened when he was tuning it on the road. I need to ask him what caused this because I don't think its normal for a blown HG to crack a block.
Scott- You have a valid point and I've been thinking about it all weekend. I don't know how to broach that topic. I can have AAA come tow the car out of there and take it to another shop, but regardless I need to do something.
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
George- Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it. I will see what figures my mechanic comes back with. I think, regardless I should sleeve the block I buy just to make this new motor as bulletproof as possible.
Carlege- He told me it happened when he was tuning it on the road. I need to ask him what caused this because I don't think its normal for a blown HG to crack a block.
Scott- You have a valid point and I've been thinking about it all weekend. I don't know how to broach that topic. I can have AAA come tow the car out of there and take it to another shop, but regardless I need to do something.
Carlege- He told me it happened when he was tuning it on the road. I need to ask him what caused this because I don't think its normal for a blown HG to crack a block.
Scott- You have a valid point and I've been thinking about it all weekend. I don't know how to broach that topic. I can have AAA come tow the car out of there and take it to another shop, but regardless I need to do something.