Money2536

I haven't seen any DIY info yet on an oil change, so I'm flying a little blind on this one. It wasn't too terribly difficult. I find it interesting that the manual doesn't refer to oil capacity or an oil change procedure at all. It's pretty clear that Porsche would prefer we don't do this ourselves, but that's not how I roll. I enjoy this and also don't want to drive an hour, wait an hour, and drive an hour back when I can simply do this myself.


First thing to note is that almost all other Porsches that I know of require A40, but it appears the newer cars with a particulate filter require the Porsche C40 specification. The only two oils I am aware with the C40 spec are Mobile 1 ESP X3 and Motul 8100 X-Clean G2. I'm not too keen on keeping Mobile oil in my engine. I think at one point in time they may have been the best oil provider, but that certainly isn't the case any more. Amsoil, Liqui Moly, Redline, and Motul are all better choices based on any research I've ever done.



I bought 12 Liters of 8100. I got it from Pelican Parts. These guys must make nearly nothing shipping darn oil for free. I got it 3 days.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...g1.htm%23item1

I figured it was smarter to get 1L bottles instead of a larger 5L due to the fact that I am dumping oil inside the car when filling. Capacity according to the Porsche service manual (confirmed by Porsche Wilmington) calls for 8L of oil. I'm assuming it isn't all going to come out, so I put 7.25L in the car. I'll measure later.





Then I got a 718 GT4 oil change kit from Suncoast Porsche. It includes a Mahle filter, OE Porsche housing o-ring, and new OE Porsche plastic drain plug.









You don't need this, you could use a flathead, but Schwaben makes a tool designed for the new plastic drain plug. I guess these plastic oil pans have been on VWs for a while now. I really like the plastic plug. It works quite well and is more precise than a metal plug with less chance of mess up.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../019532sch01a/









You'll also want a 991/718 oil filter socket. You need a 27mm socket for your ratchet to work with this. You could use a pair adjustable pliers, but having the proper tool will keep you from jacking up the plastic filter housing.

https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKU991GT3OFR.html





I had the car on the lift earlier to put the factory headers back on after playing with the Soul catless version. I also already had rear diffuser center section and two underbody panels off the car. I have a Nussbaum Jumbo HF7 lift. They are in more store, and I have videos on the lift. I'm not a current sponsor on Rennlist, so I'll let you look that up on your own.



You don't need to take the wheels off. I already had them off.







Unfortunately you do need to take all three underbody panels off to get to the drain plug and filter. It's a bunch of T25 screws, 4 - 10mm plastic nuts, and 4 metal 10mm bolts.

























I let the oil drain for about 15 minutes. I don't see any need to remove the filter and drain plug at the same time. I plugged the drain bolt, then removed filter housing.













Unlike 911s, these underbody panels are a bit of a pain to put back on.





Done!

DC021

Thanks Matt, appreciate you taking the time to post this. Great addition to the other 718 Oil change DIY!

phefner

Love what you do for the community Matt.

Money2536

Nice! I missed his thread. I searched probably a week before. The two threads should cover it for everyone in the future!

bwhip

Well done as usual, thanks Matt!

Bill Mitchell

Good write up, great pics. When I go to the link for the oil it says it is Porsche A40 compliant, not C40. There us still a lot of confusion about the new oil, and Dexos 2 is the GM spec but not for the new Porsche spec. Did I miss something?

Money2536

Good call. I found the proper link from my order confirmation and fixed it on the thread above.

pavpath

Since most of us do not understand what the A40 and C40 differences are. This is directly from a email conversation from Motul.
8100 X-cess gen2 5W40 = Full SAPS (higher metallic additive package for anti-wear, less friendly on emission systems)=A40
8100 X-clean gen2 5W40 = Mid SAPS (less metallic additive package vs X-cess since it is more focused on emission system protection)=C40

Money2536

Interesting... I think we could logically infer then that since I've removed the particulate filters, that we could run an A40 oil without issue. I just wonder about future proof with Porsche should you develop an engine issue, that I used an A40 spec oil and end up with a disagreement.

mjw930

Still links to the A40 variant. Here’s the link to the C40, you need to change the car to a 2020 911 to get the C40. This link gives you all the options they carry.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...g1.htm%23item1

BTW, great write up. You’ve almost sold me on the lift but damn it’s expensive.

Bill Mitchell

There's a big discussion thread under "Please sir, may I have some motor oil" or something like that. Besides lowering the SAPS levels, the new C40 is supposed to inhibit LSPI (low speed pre-ignition) occurrences, which seem to be more frequent with DFI engines. Whether this is that much of a problem is subject to debate, but there it that. However, it seems that so far a lot of Porsche dealers are still using A40 spec oil in the 2020-2021 vehicles that require C40 oil. As to the warranty issue, it would be a tough call(I know car makers use any excuse to deny warranty claims) simply because the oil would likely be drained out and dumped into the recycling tank before any question as to which oil is in the crankcase ever comes up. I personally doubt that there is much difference using either if the GPF 'guts' are removed, but I'm no attorney and certainly no oil engineer. I have 24 quarts of A40 spec Mobil 1 in my oil cabinet left over from my 981 CGTS and was planning to use it in the new GTS 4.0, now I'm in a quandary. If there are significant numbers of Porsches running around with the wrong oil because it was installed by dealers, then it is going to be harder for them to claim a customer used the wrong oil I would expect. You could always keep an empty bottle of C40 oil around as "proof" should anything come up. Not that I would......

mjw930

I have 2 schools of thought on the A vs.C debate.

1. With the state of modern oils I’d be pretty confident the lubrication properties of either are more than adequate to keep these motors in top condition. The minor differences in the formulations to protect the GPF and reduce carbon buildup would never be detected over the life of the motor considering 95% of these will not be long haul, high mileage cars.

2. On the flip side, having invested 6 figures on a car expect to keep for the foreseeable future I want the maximum amount of protection available. Also, if you are doing your own service and you have an issue PCNA will demand you show proof of service which could include receipts for the oil and proof it was C40. If your service is at the dealer it will never come to that since the service is documented and they assume their dealers are performing it to their spec. The argument that dealers were using A40 will fall on deaf ears.

I plan on doing a post break in oil change then using the free annual service to get it done at the dealer a year from now. I’m hoping they will have purged their A40 supply and be using C40 by then but I will check and demand C40.

Bxstr

Watched the video starting yesterday and finished it up today. Great video as always and your posts with high quality photos are always the best. Thanks for sharing.
Joe

Bill Mitchell

You make a valid point. Chances are very small of anything ever occurring, but as you say it is a substantial investment for most of us, and prudence is advised. I am on the same page as you, I'll do a change at 1000 miles and then probably let the dealer do the free one after that, unless I don't get enough miles on before time demands another, in which case I'll do it too. FWIW, the new 9A2 engine in our cars has the piezoelectric coils which are reported to reduce deposits on the valves considerably. Don't know if that's marketing hype or fact, but that's what Porsche claims. So the LSPI issue may be mostly moot anyway. I'm leaning toward knocking out the guts in the GPF's once I get my car, which as you say removes most of the issue of using C40.

pavpath

Everyone makes a very good point.
Like many of you I do agree there are better oils compared to Mobil 1. Look at the oil temps in the new GT4 vs the older GT3. The GT4 does run a bit hotter, I believe the autoblip/pdk sport opens up the 3rd set of radiators/coolers and drops the temps rather quick. But just going around town its not uncommon at least per the forum to be running 230-240 oil temp. When you look at the cars that do this, most are turbo charged esp the Bmw cars. N54, N55, S55. All will run "hot" and limp mode kicks in. No performance or tuning shop will run Mobil1. Sure you can go online and get a Mobil1 oil change kit, but most shops or DIY run Amsoil, Motul, Liquimolly etc. So the high heat isn't really something that Mobil 1 likes for long periods of time, and will tend to vaporize/ leave more carbon deposits at least per the forums. All the other oils tend to do better and not burn off. Now I don't know how the Mobil 1 ESP factory C40 oil does with prolonged high temps. Top Tech by Liqui Molly is C40 approved according to the website, as is Motul X-Clean gen 2. Amsoil at the moment does not have a C40 oil.. they do have a C30 oil which I believe is what is called for in the Macan. So likely it will be just some more time before a C40 oil is out.
For reference the Red Bottle of Amsoil many run is a medium SAPS oil. So in a GT3 RS running to 9000RPM only needing Medium SAPS oil, where as the Motul X-cess gen2 is a Full/High SAPS. Given this I don't think there will be much wear differences between the Low SAPS and a Medium/Mid SAPS. Most likely its just to appease emission regulations in Europe and now every car from porsche will be running a C rated oil. So the new swan neck GT3 C40 oil. Most the shops will likely get plenty of the C40 rated oil. But worse case most shops given these cars will often use customer products as long as Porsche Approved (At least the dealer by me will). So if you are not able to lift your car and take all the undertrays off. Bring a case of C40 oil of your choice to the dealer, and just make sure on the paperwork they document the oil is C40 Porsche approved and that should keep all the warranty people happy.