Correct, Charlie, you were not, but you are now right next in line. Yours will be shipped on Friday at latest.

 

Awesome. Was hoping to have had it this weekend as gotta do a wheel change for the track, hopefully have it by next weekend when I change it back to street wheels.

 

I do not know how long would it take FedEx to deliver it to the other side of the world, but i believe the chances are decent.

 

Chances are good if it leaves Friday. Normally a week for FedEx from USA to Australia

 

If that is properly welded, I'd give you $1000 if you could break that under normal use and operation...

 

I have an understanding for this concern of NutCracker somehow falling apart. Afterall it's the new kid on the block and just slightly more than one third in price of what has been the golden standard thus far. I cannot imagine however that this concern could continue with anyone who ever laid his hands on one.

 

I think this is a clever and very well engineered product.

I haven’t observed abundant counterpoint discussion here, so I suppose I am the one to generate some critical thinking. I am being respectful as I seek to unpack some concerns which I think are valid, so I am not anticipating any inflammatory discussion.

In short, I do not understand why anyone would prefer to utilize this product over a proper torque wrench. The right job is done utilizing the right tools, without taking shortcuts; and sometimes the right job is not “easy” or “convenient.” I believe those of us who enjoy working at home should take care when doing so at the expense of following proper procedure. Then there are those who like to do things “their” way as opposed to the best (and more time consuming) way.

I am not being wise, and I would like to share some points which I think are valid and to invite reply.

1) Porsche specifically does not allow its service centers to utilize motorized or compact tools or any other shortcuts for centerlock wheel removal — it’s the old fashioned 5-foot torque wrench or nothing, according to the letter of their law. More than one shop foreman and more than one individual technician have shared with me specifics on this as taught at the Porsche school.

2) To me, an accuracy figure of within 3% when we are talking about 442 foot-pounds is a significant margin of error. Am I wrong? Why should I entrust the well-being of the car and my personal well-being to this margin of error?

3) The price of a high quality, made in the USA, traditional centerlock torque wrench and accompanying breaker bar adapter is around $600. Not astronomical. I bought a set. There are others available at higher prices.

4) I can see that this tool might be handy in some kind of emergency — so is that basically why the tool exists? To carry it in the car as an emergency tool? I could see that.
At the same time, I do not foresee an emergency “need” to remove a wheel. (Naturally, I would not be driving around with the traditional torque wrench because it’s too heavy, even though it disassembles to a reasonable size.) Indeed, the usual procedure would apply: pick the car up with the appropriate flatbed and haul it to the nearest appropriate shop, just like we do with other cars not having centerlocks. I realize most shops do not maintain any kind of centerlock tool, which is why the owner’s own personal tool should be kept at or near the drive-off/home base location of the car so that it may be retrieved within a reasonable amount of time if an “emergency” arises. A few hours maximum. Driving across the country? In the middle of nowhere? With cars like GT cars having centerlock wheel applications, I think a person has to know where the nearest real shop is along his route and also should make provisions for accessing either his own tool or someone else’s tool in case of an unexpected tire situation. I don’t think I’m driving on a long, interstate or other road trip after tightening down my wheel with a tool other than the proper torque wrench. Am I misguided to hold that sentiment? In the worst case scenario, the car sits for a few days at a local shop while the torque wrench arrives. Sh*t happens. It seems I am answering own question here — I imagine this tool serves best as a complement to having the proper torque wrench at home — not as a replacement for it — for when the car will be driven in very remote areas. For those who drive their cars in areas that are not more than, say, 75-90 minutes from an urban center, I don’t see how the real torque wrench at home is not the singular solution.

5) There seem to be quite a few chances for misuse of this tool: damaging the wheel spoke, not reaching the proper torque due to improper tool adjustment, etc. There seems to be a learning curve for this tool which may not be conducive to personal use in an emergency situation or use by a shop that doesn’t have the regular centerlock torque wrench.

=====

I am looking to learn here — not looking to pour water on this product.

 

You would never use a torque multiplier. Absolutely fine, your car, your call. Some would. Porsche would.

You prefer to look up reputable tyre shops along your route before you hit the road. Some prefer to have the means with them instead. Fine again - to each his own.

Some prefer to be able to work on their car alone. Perhaps you don't. Fine again.

And this could continue.

There isn't one holy way of handling centerlocks (although you appear to imply otherwise).

I always thought the best way to learn is to ask questions to which one does not yet know the answer. I don't see such questions in what must have taken a good part of an hour to write down.

 

Industrial Revolution - wheels, pulleys, earth diggers, concrete busters, augers, agricultural sprayers, electromechanical seat adjustments, drones AND torque multipliers makes hard work easy on the human body……When the price for entry was 2.5K to 5K, it was difficulty to justify purely from use number case. At sub 1K, it is a no brainer for many. Those who would rather not leverage mechanical advantage - old school tools still an option. The 3% error does not bother me considering the stories you hear about overtorqued nuts.

IMHO😇

Disclosure - my tool is ‘in the mail.’

 

I asked several questions but you did not answer them. I also offered several thoughts and asked if I am misguided to think so.

I also did not say I would never use the tool. I said I don’t understand why someone would “prefer to utilize” this product over the proper tool. So perhaps you have misunderstood me.

I think you could have done better job responding to my post. Instead, you have chosen to be offended. Counterpoints are often unwelcome during discussion, and it’s easiest to live in a sea of unanimous opinion. The best marketers are able to address and overcome objections, which you did not attempt to do. Why?

Yes I did spend over an hour composing that post because it was a good faith attempt to understand more and to speak for others who may have similar thoughts.

 

This is a well plowed topic in the 911 forums.

Use advanced search for center lock.

All your questions and then more are answered.

This is only new in here because CL never offered on the platform until RS

Mainly its ease of use and eliminating the risk of damage. Not unusual to see break forces beyond 800 on CLs from factory/dealer torque.

 

Shame it didn’t stay that way.

 

My motorsports mechanic has been doing this for 35 years and torqued thousands of wheels over that time. He routinely uses 500 lbs for his torque setting as the right rear on a GT3 almost always comes back low when set to OEM spec. It backs out a little bit and sits on the safety lock until retorqued. He even sometimes has to tighten it a few mm just to get it off the locking mechanism and then release it. You could set it about a 475 lbs setting and then even if there is a 5% error you are covered either way to be between 450-500.

I have a Precision Instruments Torque wrench with a breaker bar for home use.

 

Just a shout out I ordered on July 14th and it arrived today July 19th not bad service at all 👍

Peter

 

Glad to be of service, Peter!