alwaysdriving

I would totally agree and it comes down to what the person has in his vision, if he wants to choose the best setup that caters for track he would change alot of things, i'm more of those who use the car more than half times in the street (even traveled across GCC countries with my car) and don't want to go the route of specific kit as its not cheap, hard to install, hard to dial between and don't have good installers around me.
the setup above or the "basic Manthay track kit" is more than enough for my type.
although i went to different tracks around and had great times and good clocked times i still prefer bolt ons and simple add ons with change/correct the geo setup on yearly base
I'm not a pro driver nor want to achieve a track monster, but again the GT4 platform is so wide, capable and caters different flavors each can choose the route they wish to.

TRZ06

Location, location, location.

I only street drive my car, and I went down the suspension modding route because the stock PASM did not do well on my local roads that I drive everyday. It has been 1000% worth it for me. If you live somewhere where the roads are like glass, then stock is perfectly fine.

Yes there is set-up and a learning curve, but I have enjoyed the process and have gained a lot of knowledge in the process. The beauty of going with a quality aftermarket coil-over is that you do not need to set it up for track. I have mine set-up to be more complaint than stock is, yet the quality and control of the damping is worlds better.

I have played around with settings a lot and have a set-up for daily driving that still inspires confidence, but soaks ups the bumps, just with a tiny bit of weight transfer when you start pushing it.

Then I have a second set-up (which really is just one click more of compression & rebound and a tire pressure change), which is for more hardcore driving and the chassis is more buttoned down and doesn't have really any weight transfer and that is great for charging up/down mountain/canyon roads.

Then I have a 3rd set-up for glass smooth, high speed driving, like on a track.

I usually go between the first 2 set-ups, depending on my mood and what I plan to do with the car. Yes, it is a manual process to change, but it takes 5 mins.

So, you do not need to be a track rat to enjoy what a quality motorsport damper can do for the GT4 platform. I would argue that you get just as much of a benefit on the street (if your local roads suck) as you would a track, if you like to drive your car the way it was meant to be driven.

Joe250

I don't think this means what you think it means. Are you talking about body roll, pitch, and dive?

TRZ06

Yes

As you go stiffer and restrict the compression & rebound movements (low speed damping), you lessen the amount of roll, pitch, dive the chassis has. which in turn lessens the chassis movements/upsets during hard braking, acceleration, and cornering.

Not static weight transfer, as that is fixed for the chassis weight distribution, center of gravity, and roll center.

Maybe I used bad wording.

dnimi123

Totally agree. Its been so much fun modifying the GT4 as it really responds well to relatively minor changes (alignment, toe links, stiffer springs, DSC, tires, etc...) But then if you want to take it to the next level motorsport coilovers with better damping/adjustability/consistency really puts the car in a different league. This was so night/day that if I did get a GT4RS I would still probably replace PASM with MCS 3 ways (whats another $8,000!) just for the feel and confidence they inspire...

Montaver

When I retire my car from track which is potentially end of this year, I'll take the MCS 2 ways off. The stock suspension is excellent, I would not change it for the street.

alwaysdriving

PASM if we could rate it very good but not great at serving general mix use (street and track) i would rate it 7.5/10 overall (8 for the street and 7 for the track) and totally understand the comments of doing the coil-overs (+ other supporting handling mods)
this is were Porsche done great jobs in making cars and models ....they could even make Caymen faster even than its bigger brother but at the end of the day they generate revenue and milk as much as possible, meaning we would cater both but satisfy the people who pays more even more. a good example the SSR GT4RS though it doesn't have the revised 992 GT3RS engine setup, rear wheel steer, double wishbones fronts or the multi-links rear from factory, still it is on par withe 992 GT3

Montaver comments were pinning what i said earlier and i respect that, it comes down to whats your aimed vision

dnimi123

I could NEVER go back to PASM it would just kill me. Why not keep the MCS 2 ways and just put on say 8/10 springs. you can turn the dials, lessen the NO2 and get much better compliance...

Montaver

$10k worth of suspension on the car is a lot when there is marginal benefit on the street in my opinion. The stock suspension is already more than good enough for street driving. That money would be better spent towards a set of MCS for my next track car.

If I keep tracking the car though I will leave it on, but I want something I can be a bit less precious about and send it without worrying about putting $160k into the wall

Top of the list at the moment is probably an f8x M3/M4 as they are ballpark same performance (with track mods, not out of the box) for less than half the cost. For TT it lands in the same class as well. its either that or full race car.

TRZ06

I had an F80 M3. I hated it. IMO, it is not in the same league as the GT4. Way too heavy for a track car, that motor feels great until you get to about 110, then it feels like it hits a brick wall, just falls flat. Just me, but I also could not go back to a front engine after having experienced a mid-engine.

Even with Euro spec MDM mode, the system is way too intrusive and not even close to how well the GT4's system works. Moot point though if you drive with everything off.

I went into my Camaro SS 1LE from my F80 M3 and THAT car was everything I was expecting the M3 to be, but wasn't. If you want a cheaper, well sorted track car, I would look at the 6th Gen. Camaro 1LE's waaaay before anything from BMW.

Montaver

I owned an M2C so pretty familiar with the S55. Driven a few mildly tuned examples, they absolutely fly. A stripper F82 M4 with track mods is 3500lbs, not GT4 light but nowhere near as heavy as an SS1 LE or a g8x. You can also carry slicks to the track. M cars are benign enough that you can fully turn off the nannies. Nothing really appeals to me about the SS 1LE apart from the engine. As a weekend sports car the M4 is a bit lacking (I have posted many times about why I didn't like my M2C and sold it), but as a track tool it makes more sense.

Lucase83

Hello,

This noise is due to the PWM frequency used and is caused by the DSC controller.
Tractive does not require the DSC controller, it works perfectly with the original porsche PASM controller.
DSC is an option so users can home tweak the settings without other modifications.
Tractive also offers a stand alone system, this uses our own controller and requires the installation of a display to control it.

ps for info, i work at Tractive Suspension so any questions are welcome.

Lucase83

Hi,

Our DDA valve starts opening up from approx 0.7 A untill 2 Amps.
So ~.07 or below will be full firm, 2 Amps will be full bleed for comfort.

If you are using 0.3 to 1.7 range you are not utilizing it's maximum potential.

Lucase83

We have several other dealers now, and a sales agent Johannes van Overbeek https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Johannes_van_Overbeek

Amongst our dealers are https://smartracingproducts.com/ https://www.dassport.com/ http://901racing.com/ http://www.inertialaboratory.com/
Inertia mostly does BMW but is also a authorized US service center for automotive Tractive dampers.

TRZ06

Just bad timing for me. When I got my MCS 2-ways last year, I was really looking at the Tractive motorsport dampers, but there was just not enough info. out there and no race shops with actual use cases. That was just too much to spend on an unknown product and with unknown results.

While I do love my MCS dampers, I frequently go back and forth between two settings based on if I want max performance/cornering forces, or more compliance. My dream is to have those two settings as the press of a button. I am way too much $$ into it now to swap out, but I can definitely see the advantage to having an active motorsport damper set-up with multiple profiles, rather than a passive one that requires a manual change and exiting the vehicle to do it.