GT4: Anyone with coilovers?
#16
Rennlist Member
I feel shocks are not stiff enough, so I wonder:
- enough to change only the springs and keep OEM shocks with OEM height?
- better upgrade to MANTHEY coilovers and lower the height of the car as per MANTHEY's specs
My goal is to improve my lap time by around 1.5-2.0 seconds per lap in my local track (other GT4's are with same timing as I am now and with simmilar upgrade as my car)
- enough to change only the springs and keep OEM shocks with OEM height?
- better upgrade to MANTHEY coilovers and lower the height of the car as per MANTHEY's specs
My goal is to improve my lap time by around 1.5-2.0 seconds per lap in my local track (other GT4's are with same timing as I am now and with simmilar upgrade as my car)
Given you are in Europe I would consider Bilstein Clubsports, Ohlins TTX, or the Manthey kit. The Manthey kit is stiffer than stock by about 50% at the front I believe, but that's quite low compared to custom kits folks in the US are running. I believe Ohlins R&T is an 70M/mm and 90N/mm, Bilstein is similar around 80/100. Personally I would go TTX or Bilstein over the Manthey but there is certainly some paddock bling factor to having the Manthey.
I have MCS 2WR going onto my car, hopefully next week. I'll be able to set times at WGI and compare to my stock 981 next weekend, if it doesn't go on in time I'll be running stock 718 suspension which is an even more direct comparison.
The following 3 users liked this post by Montaver:
#17
The stock suspension is very good, it shouldn't hold you back from going fast. It is on the softer side though, so rewards being smooth. I tracked my 981 GT4 on stock suspension for years and got good times. You would see 1.5-2.0 seconds on a big track by changing a 19inch setup with sticky 265 front tires assuming you have not done so already.
Given you are in Europe I would consider Bilstein Clubsports, Ohlins TTX, or the Manthey kit. The Manthey kit is stiffer than stock by about 50% at the front I believe, but that's quite low compared to custom kits folks in the US are running. I believe Ohlins R&T is an 70M/mm and 90N/mm, Bilstein is similar around 80/100. Personally I would go TTX or Bilstein over the Manthey but there is certainly some paddock bling factor to having the Manthey.
I have MCS 2WR going onto my car, hopefully next week. I'll be able to set times at WGI and compare to my stock 981 next weekend, if it doesn't go on in time I'll be running stock 718 suspension which is an even more direct comparison.
Given you are in Europe I would consider Bilstein Clubsports, Ohlins TTX, or the Manthey kit. The Manthey kit is stiffer than stock by about 50% at the front I believe, but that's quite low compared to custom kits folks in the US are running. I believe Ohlins R&T is an 70M/mm and 90N/mm, Bilstein is similar around 80/100. Personally I would go TTX or Bilstein over the Manthey but there is certainly some paddock bling factor to having the Manthey.
I have MCS 2WR going onto my car, hopefully next week. I'll be able to set times at WGI and compare to my stock 981 next weekend, if it doesn't go on in time I'll be running stock 718 suspension which is an even more direct comparison.
The following users liked this post:
Montaver (04-14-2023)
#18
I have Manthey 3 way coilovers. They are expensive £7k but i am pleased with them. They have a higher front spring rate (as already recommended by others here).
#19
The tractive dampers are electronic and by design they make a constant faint high pitched noise/squeal which normally isn't audible in the cabin due to fire wall, insulation, etc. However, in the Cayman the rear dampers are very close behind so I can hear the damper squeal, particularly when parked. Un-plugging the damper/PASM cable eliminates the noise, although this could be unique to my damper set, as I haven't been able to confirm otherwise with other Cayman/Tractive owners. Interestingly, if I put in the OEM PASM controller the noise also goes away but then of course the dampers do not work properly. So could be just some unique issue relating to my setup or some module in the damper that needs replacing. I'm sure if I was in the US or Netherlands it could be sorted.
I don't hear noises when they are on. They will work with the OEM PASM controller, in fact all the Tractive struts use the same DDA valve which operates on the same settings as the OEM PASM controller uses (the PASM defaults to 1400mA and 800mA in Sport mode). Using a DSC, you can send a larger range of current to the strut valve, between 2000mA and 600mA. Less than 600mA the valve is already closed so not much point in that.
I would write to Tractive to ask if there is an issue, hearing a noise. What suspension controller are you using when there is a noise?
The following 2 users liked this post by dnimi123:
964C4 (04-16-2023),
alwaysdriving (09-11-2023)
#21
Pro
I have a cayman and the Tractive 'Touring' dampers (not to be confused with the 'Road and Track' or 'Motorsport' models)
I don't hear noises when they are on. They will work with the OEM PASM controller, in fact all the Tractive struts use the same DDA valve which operates on the same settings as the OEM PASM controller uses (the PASM defaults to 1400mA and 800mA in Sport mode). Using a DSC, you can send a larger range of current to the strut valve, between 2000mA and 600mA. Less than 600mA the valve is already closed so not much point in that.
I would write to Tractive to ask if there is an issue, hearing a noise. What suspension controller are you using when there is a noise?
I don't hear noises when they are on. They will work with the OEM PASM controller, in fact all the Tractive struts use the same DDA valve which operates on the same settings as the OEM PASM controller uses (the PASM defaults to 1400mA and 800mA in Sport mode). Using a DSC, you can send a larger range of current to the strut valve, between 2000mA and 600mA. Less than 600mA the valve is already closed so not much point in that.
I would write to Tractive to ask if there is an issue, hearing a noise. What suspension controller are you using when there is a noise?
#22
Banned
If you hear it while driving and it disappears few seconds after you stopped, it's not the damper.
#23
I would be surprised if the R&T dampers used a different range than 2000mA - 600mA. As far as I know, they all advertise using the same valve, so it reasons the same settings.
Don't make more trips, this should be email and verifiable with phone/video in my opinon. As you've a DSC, you can easily run the current to whatever you want and test the valve. You can also test individual shocks yourself, and see if its just one strut, the DSC or something else making the noise.
I'd be happy to help walk through some things to troubleshoot but I'm nobody special, just an owner who is curious about things.
I'll also write Tractive and ask about support in Australia.
Are you confidant that the DSC is using a profile for your dampers/car?
Don't make more trips, this should be email and verifiable with phone/video in my opinon. As you've a DSC, you can easily run the current to whatever you want and test the valve. You can also test individual shocks yourself, and see if its just one strut, the DSC or something else making the noise.
I'd be happy to help walk through some things to troubleshoot but I'm nobody special, just an owner who is curious about things.
I'll also write Tractive and ask about support in Australia.
Are you confidant that the DSC is using a profile for your dampers/car?
#24
Pro
I would be surprised if the R&T dampers used a different range than 2000mA - 600mA. As far as I know, they all advertise using the same valve, so it reasons the same settings.
Don't make more trips, this should be email and verifiable with phone/video in my opinon. As you've a DSC, you can easily run the current to whatever you want and test the valve. You can also test individual shocks yourself, and see if its just one strut, the DSC or something else making the noise.
I'd be happy to help walk through some things to troubleshoot but I'm nobody special, just an owner who is curious about things.
I'll also write Tractive and ask about support in Australia.
Are you confidant that the DSC is using a profile for your dampers/car?
Don't make more trips, this should be email and verifiable with phone/video in my opinon. As you've a DSC, you can easily run the current to whatever you want and test the valve. You can also test individual shocks yourself, and see if its just one strut, the DSC or something else making the noise.
I'd be happy to help walk through some things to troubleshoot but I'm nobody special, just an owner who is curious about things.
I'll also write Tractive and ask about support in Australia.
Are you confidant that the DSC is using a profile for your dampers/car?
In any case let me PM you as I didn't mean to detract from the OPs post which was coil-over options.
If anyone is interested here is the US supplier for Tractive. Mine came with Eibach springs given they were sourced out of Europe, but nothing wrong with the US Swift springs:
https://www.tpcracing.com/product/po...-rt-coilovers/
They also have various pre-developed DSC maps/calibration files for various Porsche models to download:
https://www.dscsport.com/calibration-files/
Last edited by donR; 04-15-2023 at 10:17 PM. Reason: maps
#25
I run the stock struts with Swift 80/100 springs and a DSC. I have a firm program and a soft program and it's track dependent on which is faster.
Haven't noticed much if any difference on the street, as far as, harshness of the ride.
I set respectable lap times wherever I go with that set up. Have lap SCCA TT lap records at NCM and Road Atlanta. Would have a NASA lap record at Nola, but didn't run in my class for that event.
You can probably pick up some time with coilovers if the stock suspension is causing you to lose traction.
Like Montaver said the easiest way to pick up 1.5-2.0 seconds is switch to some sticky tires on 19" wheels with 265 fronts. Falkens RT660, Yokohama A052, Goodyear sc3r, or the new Bridgestone RE71RS when they come out with a 305 are all faster then cup 2s.
Haven't noticed much if any difference on the street, as far as, harshness of the ride.
I set respectable lap times wherever I go with that set up. Have lap SCCA TT lap records at NCM and Road Atlanta. Would have a NASA lap record at Nola, but didn't run in my class for that event.
You can probably pick up some time with coilovers if the stock suspension is causing you to lose traction.
Like Montaver said the easiest way to pick up 1.5-2.0 seconds is switch to some sticky tires on 19" wheels with 265 fronts. Falkens RT660, Yokohama A052, Goodyear sc3r, or the new Bridgestone RE71RS when they come out with a 305 are all faster then cup 2s.
The following 2 users liked this post by jwr9152:
964C4 (04-16-2023),
Larry Cable (09-10-2023)
#26
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the replies, appreciate it!
Will get MANTHEY coilovers in June
Will get MANTHEY coilovers in June
The following 2 users liked this post by 964C4:
Larry Cable (04-16-2023),
Montaver (04-18-2023)
#27
I feel shocks are not stiff enough, so I wonder:
- enough to change only the springs and keep OEM shocks with OEM height?
- better upgrade to MANTHEY coilovers and lower the height of the car as per MANTHEY's specs
My goal is to improve my lap time by around 1.5-2.0 seconds per lap in my local track (other GT4's are with same timing as I am now and with simmilar upgrade as my car)
- enough to change only the springs and keep OEM shocks with OEM height?
- better upgrade to MANTHEY coilovers and lower the height of the car as per MANTHEY's specs
My goal is to improve my lap time by around 1.5-2.0 seconds per lap in my local track (other GT4's are with same timing as I am now and with simmilar upgrade as my car)
I've made the mistake of throwing money at cars and making them unusable (or very uncomfortable at least) on the street.
Last edited by paffinity; 04-18-2023 at 01:38 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Larry Cable (09-10-2023)
The following users liked this post:
Larry Cable (09-10-2023)
#30
Rennlist Member
being pedantic (ok ****), AFIAK PASM are considered coilovers, so really one should ask about "aftermarket" coilovers... jus' say'in!
before I'd invest in an aftermarket 2/3/4 way adjustable coilover I would:
- get a proper track alignment, and replace the rear toe link with either TPC or Tarrett
- replace the OEM PASM controller with DSC
- consider add different springs
once you go down the aftermarket setup you really need to know what you are doing w.r.t suspension setup and adjustment..,
before I'd invest in an aftermarket 2/3/4 way adjustable coilover I would:
- get a proper track alignment, and replace the rear toe link with either TPC or Tarrett
- replace the OEM PASM controller with DSC
- consider add different springs
once you go down the aftermarket setup you really need to know what you are doing w.r.t suspension setup and adjustment..,
Last edited by Larry Cable; 09-10-2023 at 09:31 PM.
The following 3 users liked this post by Larry Cable: