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Thank you very much for your continued patronage Mike! As a team of current and recovering track rats, we know how expensive it is to sustain this hobby. We'll do our best to keep supporting those of you who are driving these cars as intended!
Hi Jeff, are the kits for PCCB replacement something that a moderately skilled DIYer can do, or would rather have a shop do the swap? What is the current lead time on a kit for the GT4 with PCCBs for all 4 wheels? Thanks!
I was hoping the video would show a useful tip in how to easily remove the inboard rear pad. It seems too tight and I’m searching for a way to loosen it.
Hi Jeff, are the kits for PCCB replacement something that a moderately skilled DIYer can do, or would rather have a shop do the swap? What is the current lead time on a kit for the GT4 with PCCBs for all 4 wheels? Thanks!
We are looking at about two weeks to ship one of our Porsche GT systems right now. We have a significant backlog of orders that we're working through, and they've been steadily coming in every day. As such, your best bet is to secure your spot in line once you're committed to the purchase. We fill orders in the order in which they are received, and we are getting a ton of traffic on our GT kits at this time. We won't charge you a dime until your brake kit is built and ships out the door, so there's no risk in placing your order. You'll just be in line before the next owner who calls us tomorrow.
The install process is very straightforward. A shop would typically charge something like 2.5-3 hours labor for the job per axle...so about 5-6 hours total labor to do the front and rear. Most enthusiasts who do their own basic maintenance already have all the required tools for the job (see list below). The links to our install manuals for the front and rear kits are below. They are extremely detailed and clearly lay out all the steps. Reviewing them should give you the entire picture:
Required Tools
Torque wrenches capable of 150in/lbs to 444 lb.-ft.(for center-lock hubs)
Breaker bar- OEM caliper bolt
T20 and T25 torx bits - disc retaining screws and air duct diverters
10mm Hex/Allen key socket - OE caliper bolts
11mm Flare/line wrench-brake line removal
19mm socket w/ratchet - bolt bracket to upright
6mm hex key wrench/socket- Caliper bridge bolt
14mm socket- Caliper stud nuts, banjo bolt
7/16”/11mm box end wrench- Caliper bleed screw
Rags- Brake fluid
Brake fluid cleaning solution
Small Funnel- Brake fluid
Eye protection
Gloves
2 or 3 500ml bottles of brake fluid- Essex recommends AP Racing R3 or R4 brake fluid
Pair of jack stands- If you can’t figure this out, drop the other tools and walk away!
Thank you very much for your consideration, and let us know how else we can help!
__________________
'09 Carrera 2S, '08 Boxster LE (orange), '91 Acura NSX, Tesla Model 3 Performance, Fiesta ST
Jeff Ritter
Mgr. High Performance Division, Essex Parts Services Essex Designed AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kits & 2-piece J Hook Discs Ferodo Racing Brake Pads Spiegler Stainless Steel Brake Lines
704-824-6030 jeff.ritter@essexparts.com
I was hoping the video would show a useful tip in how to easily remove the inboard rear pad. It seems too tight and I’m searching for a way to loosen it.
Our guys have found that using a large magnet works well. I've had several clients ask me about this...I'll see if I can find an appropriate magnet and share a link...may take some digging. Thanks!
Nice video well done, I replaced my 2016 GT4 PCCB as soon as I got the car with Girodoisc ,went from Padgid Yellow to RE10 Pads which were highly recommended by BGB Motorsports and those guys know Caymans
So far I have used them at Watkins Glen and this past weekend at Daytona for Octoberfast , nice pad , good grip , consistent performance thru the day. Felt like they performed better than Padgid.
Wear is also good but they will depend on your driving style. Highly recommend you try them.
1st tip, if you want to save money don’t watch this video! My $.02 based on experience with their products.
I had 991.1 GT3 with a brake history as follows:
Changed factory rotors to girodisc, a small improvement.
AP releases there full GT3 kit and I luckily get one of the 1st sets. Miles of track time by myself and others and I have to say they are the best brakes on any car I’ve ever had. Add that I ran 19” Forgelines and the drastic reduction of unsprung weight brought the handling to a completely different level.
That car is a no longer and I got a low mileage 991 TTS and swap out the ludicrously expensive PCCB rotors for AP racing and the brakes were perfect as they were much easier to modulate than the ceramics especially on track.
That car is gone traded in at the dealer for these crazy inflated values against a ‘22 GT4 with is supposed to arrive 2 weeks from today. My plan for that was just replacing the rotors with AP but damn it after watching the video it reminded my how much problems the OEM pistons were in the GT3 re the ceramic caps and now I realize I’m going to have to go for the entire kit.
Hey @lnirenberg , what is your experience with the Girodisc rotors? Was thinking about their solution to use on the PCCB hardware and spare the PCCB rotors of track use. Do you recommend that? I see you prefer the AP over them but how do you compare the Girodiscs with the stock PCCB performance? Or surface transforms if you have any knowledge of those? Thanks!
J hooks installed and ready for a workout at COTA next month.
Nice! I thought you had a red 981 GT4...did you upgrade? I can't keep track of everyone. My wife says if it were up to me I would change cars as often as I change my socks, so I totally get it.
10-18-2021, 07:44 PM
