spyder alignment settings for 30/70 track/road use
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
spyder alignment settings for 30/70 track/road use
This is what I gleamed from the 981 GT4 alignment page. I am assuming this is relevant for 718?
As the car will be used for mainly road use with 1 or 2 days per year on track.
Light Track Use:
We have learned that there is quite a bit of variance in how much adjustability folks are getting out of the oem equipment between different cars.
Align for the maximum of the range that the oem equipment on your car allows:
Front: Camber -1.6 to – 2.0; Toe zero, or slightly toe in
Rear: Camber -1.4 to -1.6; Toe in.
Caster: Whatever the oem setup falls onto based on the above should work and not present any issues.
TIP: On the oem equipment toe adjustability will become the limitation for adding camber, especially in the rear. Add as much camber as you can within toe limitations, leaving around -0.5 difference between front and rear camber. (You might be limited with what your car's oem hardware allows you)
Moderate Track Use:
Recommended settings are:
Front: Camber -2.5 to – 2.75; Toe zero, (or maybe very slightly toe out)
Rear: Camber -2.0 to -2.25; Toe in.
Caster: Center the front wheels in the well in order to minimize potential rubbing. For most this will be around a caster of about 9. Rear caster should not be a problem at these settings.
Notes:
In order to overcome the oem limitation for adding camber while maintaining appropriate toe and caster settings, aftermarket parts will need to be installed.
You will need shims to add camber, rear toe links to adjust rear toe and either front caster bushings, or adjustable thrust arms, to adjust front caster.
These parts are available either from Tarett Engineering or RSS Performance Components for Porsche.
I think that means i should be buying adustable rear toe links only and trying to max out front camber and adjust rear camber to suit. how much toe in for the rear if i intend to run zero toe in front?
Any recommended vendor for the toe links?
Tx
As the car will be used for mainly road use with 1 or 2 days per year on track.
Light Track Use:
We have learned that there is quite a bit of variance in how much adjustability folks are getting out of the oem equipment between different cars.
Align for the maximum of the range that the oem equipment on your car allows:
Front: Camber -1.6 to – 2.0; Toe zero, or slightly toe in
Rear: Camber -1.4 to -1.6; Toe in.
Caster: Whatever the oem setup falls onto based on the above should work and not present any issues.
TIP: On the oem equipment toe adjustability will become the limitation for adding camber, especially in the rear. Add as much camber as you can within toe limitations, leaving around -0.5 difference between front and rear camber. (You might be limited with what your car's oem hardware allows you)
Moderate Track Use:
Recommended settings are:
Front: Camber -2.5 to – 2.75; Toe zero, (or maybe very slightly toe out)
Rear: Camber -2.0 to -2.25; Toe in.
Caster: Center the front wheels in the well in order to minimize potential rubbing. For most this will be around a caster of about 9. Rear caster should not be a problem at these settings.
Notes:
In order to overcome the oem limitation for adding camber while maintaining appropriate toe and caster settings, aftermarket parts will need to be installed.
You will need shims to add camber, rear toe links to adjust rear toe and either front caster bushings, or adjustable thrust arms, to adjust front caster.
These parts are available either from Tarett Engineering or RSS Performance Components for Porsche.
I think that means i should be buying adustable rear toe links only and trying to max out front camber and adjust rear camber to suit. how much toe in for the rear if i intend to run zero toe in front?
Any recommended vendor for the toe links?
Tx
#2
Mine will be the GT4 and not the Spyder, but mine will be 90% street, yet I plan to go with a 50/50 recommended set-up because I like strong lateral G's and strong front end grip.
My set-up will be...
-2.5 Front via shims, ZERO toe
-2.0 Rear (with Tarett Motorsport rear-toe links) 2mm per side toe in, for a total of 4mm toe in.
Sway bars left to the factory med./med. position
Full downforce aero settings (rear wing in highest AOA setting & front spoilers removed)
AND MAYBE a slight rake change to get a nice neutral balance.
My set-up will be...
-2.5 Front via shims, ZERO toe
-2.0 Rear (with Tarett Motorsport rear-toe links) 2mm per side toe in, for a total of 4mm toe in.
Sway bars left to the factory med./med. position
Full downforce aero settings (rear wing in highest AOA setting & front spoilers removed)
AND MAYBE a slight rake change to get a nice neutral balance.
Last edited by TRZ06; 08-23-2021 at 04:43 PM.
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Tx. I'm leaving most of my track days to my dedicated track car. This will mainly be a car to soak in the sun but I'm sure I'll feel the need to wring it's neck on track once or twice a year. So the first thing after getting my car is to drive 150 miles to my favourite race car specialist and get it corner weighted and aligned.
#4
Rennlist Member
How rough is 2 deg toe in on tires for street use?
#6
Rennlist Member
I think you both mean 2 degree camber?! It's a bit surprising from a common sense point of view that higher camber doesn't affect wear across the tire face like one would think, but it's incorrect toe that does that.
The following users liked this post:
Larry Cable (12-21-2022)
#7
Yeah, you can get away with some crazy neg. camber settings if your toe is at ZERO in the front. Obviously you have to give up some of that in the rear keep that rear planted under hard braking though, but such is life. I will take more wear over instability any day.
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#9
Obviously, if you are going that much in front, you will need the rear toe links for sure in the rear.
#11
Rennlist Member
TPC works fine for me. I like that they:
- produce a table of various vehicle setups for street to track
- program(me) their suspension controller specifically for their toe links
- have helpful knowledgeable staff (Tom) who contribute to the GT3/RS site (in a personal capacity)
- produce a table of various vehicle setups for street to track
- program(me) their suspension controller specifically for their toe links
- have helpful knowledgeable staff (Tom) who contribute to the GT3/RS site (in a personal capacity)
#12
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I have my Spyder set up very close to what you have listed in the "Moderate Track Use" section, the car is more of a street car but on the track (about 30%) I really like to push it.
I went with all RSS parts, essentially a Stage 1 kit (+) and have been very happy with it on the track and on the street, TBH the Stage 1 kit would have done it but my tech had the 'extra' bits that made it essentially a Stage 2 setup.
TS-1-GT4 Stage 1 Suspension Kit (GT4 Cayman 981, 718 GT4/Spyder) - RSS / Road Sport Supply
TS-2-GT4 Stage 2 Suspension Kit (GT4 Cayman 981, 718 GT4/Spyder) - RSS / Road Sport Supply
I went with all RSS parts, essentially a Stage 1 kit (+) and have been very happy with it on the track and on the street, TBH the Stage 1 kit would have done it but my tech had the 'extra' bits that made it essentially a Stage 2 setup.
TS-1-GT4 Stage 1 Suspension Kit (GT4 Cayman 981, 718 GT4/Spyder) - RSS / Road Sport Supply
TS-2-GT4 Stage 2 Suspension Kit (GT4 Cayman 981, 718 GT4/Spyder) - RSS / Road Sport Supply
#13
Rennlist Member
let me double check the alignment settings (toe, caster, etc) when I get home later
our 718 spyder is set up to just do what you are trying to do, (we have dedicated track car as well)
as far as camber go, front -2.5 and rear -2.0
we did lower the car about 0.7 - 1.0 in all 4 corners (for some reason after lowering the ride height seemed to be similar to what our 981 spyder was at)
only used RSS shims, nothing else.
we are maxed out at rear for additional camber, will need toe kit to get more
but for 30 track / 70 street use, this is more than good enough.
our 718 spyder is set up to just do what you are trying to do, (we have dedicated track car as well)
as far as camber go, front -2.5 and rear -2.0
we did lower the car about 0.7 - 1.0 in all 4 corners (for some reason after lowering the ride height seemed to be similar to what our 981 spyder was at)
only used RSS shims, nothing else.
we are maxed out at rear for additional camber, will need toe kit to get more
but for 30 track / 70 street use, this is more than good enough.
#15
Intermediate
Picking up my Spyder this Friday and really trying to figure out alignment. Keeping my suspension stock and wanted to figure out what people are using for a "fast road setup" for weekend Spirited drives. I live in the mountains and mostly will be driving Mountain roads of South West Colorado, New Mexico and Utah and trying to figure out what to do for an alignment perspective? I have been told the following numbers, but the dealer doing the Alignment thinks it will completely destroy the tires for street dricving, so not sure what to do and if anyone has updated numbers that work with a stock setup?
Thanks!
Left Front:
Camber: -1.5
Caster: 9.3
Toe: 0.02
Right Front:
Camber: -1.5
Caster: 9.5
Toe: 0.03
Front:
Total Toe: 0.05
Steer Ahead: - 0.01
Left Rear
Camber: -1.3
Toe: 0.16
Right Rear:
Camber: -1.4
Toe: 0.16
Rear:
Total Toe: 0.32
Thrust Angle: 0.00
Thanks!
Left Front:
Camber: -1.5
Caster: 9.3
Toe: 0.02
Right Front:
Camber: -1.5
Caster: 9.5
Toe: 0.03
Front:
Total Toe: 0.05
Steer Ahead: - 0.01
Left Rear
Camber: -1.3
Toe: 0.16
Right Rear:
Camber: -1.4
Toe: 0.16
Rear:
Total Toe: 0.32
Thrust Angle: 0.00