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Thanks for the reply Nick! Good advice.
I got off the phone with race ramps yesterday and discussed that I measured my approach angle below 6 degrees (car is lowered).
He recommended I skip getting custom ramps for the bendpak and just buy the trailer ramps 67". He said you can use the yellow steel ramps that came with the lift, and put the trailer ramps up to it and fill in that void with a block of wood . (someone else suggested that technique here). I was going to get the ramps you suggested the 48" hook ramp but the approach angle would force me to back it up onto the lift only..
I ordered the 67" ramps and giving that a shot we'll see how it goes
I see the extenders are 6.8 degrees and the ramps are 6.4? How would that work?
I have found the angle calculation is somewhat inaccurate b/c it depends on how far the nose of the car and the splitter sticks out in front of the front wheels. RaceRamps' calculator assumes the front of the vehicle is flat, meaning the splitter in front of the wheels protrudes no further forward than the center of the car. You can overcome this to some degree by using a narrower ramp, but there is a limit there of course.
A better way to measure your approach angle would be to put a small piece of wood (like a 1x2) across the front of the front wheels, then measure the angle at the centerline of the car w/ the yardstick test, similar to what Race Ramps tells you do to at the tires.
For example my measured angle of approach on the GT4 is 8 degrees at the tires, but with 6.4 ramps it still drags the splitter on the inner edge of the ramps. What you need there is length....meaning the taller what you are driving onto is, the longer the ramp needs to be. The Xtenders give length at about the same angle so the wheels hit earlier and lift the splitter up sooner.
Also these calculations assume that the ground is perfectly level where you are driving on...and most of the time, especially in my driveway, it is not.
I have found the angle calculation is somewhat inaccurate b/c it depends on how far the nose of the car and the splitter sticks out in front of the front wheels. RaceRamps' calculator assumes the front of the vehicle is flat, meaning the splitter in front of the wheels protrudes no further forward than the center of the car. You can overcome this to some degree by using a narrower ramp, but there is a limit there of course.
A better way to measure your approach angle would be to put a small piece of wood (like a 1x2) across the front of the front wheels, then measure the angle at the centerline of the car w/ the yardstick test, similar to what Race Ramps tells you do to at the tires.
For example my measured angle of approach on the GT4 is 8 degrees at the tires, but with 6.4 ramps it still drags the splitter on the inner edge of the ramps. What you need there is length....meaning the taller what you are driving onto is, the longer the ramp needs to be. The Xtenders give length at about the same angle so the wheels hit earlier and lift the splitter up sooner.
Also these calculations assume that the ground is perfectly level where you are driving on...and most of the time, especially in my driveway, it is not.
It's enough to make your head explode, right?
Yup. I think I’ll just let it scrape, if that is even going to happen. It’ll probably scrape on the street anyways. Not planning on lowering the Spyder.
I realize I am overthinking this whole lift thing. Just going to go with folding mirrors.
Now I have to make sure the cement is up to spec, enough overhead clearance, and off I go.
I had to customize the piece and a hook to fill the empty block.
Well done! You have got me thinking about my parking shortage and since you are overtop of a Macan...
We have a Macan as well, so parked like the picture above shows what is the overall height above the floor to allow the GT4 to fit, this looks like it just clears the Macan? Also it looks like the lift is not yet to the top, how much farther can it go assuming the GT4 was not on top?
I am thinking that this set up makes sense if you have the overall height to make it work. Thanks!
Well done! You have got me thinking about my parking shortage and since you are overtop of a Macan...
We have a Macan as well, so parked like the picture above shows what is the overall height above the floor to allow the GT4 to fit, this looks like it just clears the Macan? Also it looks like the lift is not yet to the top, how much farther can it go assuming the GT4 was not on top?
I am thinking that this set up makes sense if you have the overall height to make it work. Thanks!
My ceiling is 10'. I can raise the lift another 4" but it won't clear the GT4 on top. Mine you, the lift needs another ~2" up to release the locks.
During summer, I raise the lift to the top and I can stand straight up (I am approx. 5.6 / 5.7). If I were to go back, I might get the HD-9XW with 12" more in height.
Note, the Macan is in the lower suspension position.
My ceiling is 10'. I can raise the lift another 4" but it won't clear the GT4 on top. Mine you, the lift needs another ~2" up to release the locks.
During summer, I raise the lift to the top and I can stand straight up (I am approx. 5.6 / 5.7). If I were to go back, I might get the HD-9XW with 12" more in height.
Note, the Macan is in the lower suspension position.
Hmmm, that may be a bit tight then, my ceiling height is only 9'5" and our Macan does not have adjustable suspension, there may be a deck expansion in my future so perhaps I can do something then.
If the current lift won't clear with the GT4 on top why the desire for a lift that goes 12" higher?
There won't be cars on the lift during the summer, I set the lift to the highest position; if I had the extra 12" it won't feel like I am banging my head against the lift (it won't, but feels like it).
I had to customize the piece and a hook to fill the empty block.
Thanks for posting this!! I just got those same ramps last week and haven't used them yet. My gt4 is lowered so this is my best option. What hook is that and any particular pieces you used to modify it?
I love your driveway. What kind of driveway is that? How long have you had it? Does it settle? Did you pour a concrete base first? Do you have to deal with snow?
I have interlocking stones and they are settling. And I hate the weeds coming up in between.
Looking at replacing it with aggregate but yours look great.
I planned to screw/tape the modified piece to the race ramp, but I find it not necessary. The metal plate is also unnecessary I think (the weight of the car pretty much holds it in place when driven over).
It's just stone interlocking. No concrete base.
The previous interlocking was there more than 20 years so it's pretty settled (I think).
I had the new one for 2 years now, no weed.
Yes, snow here in Ontario. It's holding up quite nicely (so far)
It's just stone interlocking. No concrete base.
The previous interlocking was there more than 20 years so it's pretty settled (I think). I had the new one for 2 years now, no weed.
Yes, snow here in Ontario. It's holding up quite nicely (so far)
The Poly-modified sand when activated stays put and level with the pavers, normal sand washes out slowly with every rain and... because they didn't on mine I am intimately familiar with spending time on my hands and knees cleaning the gaps between!
It's just stone interlocking. No concrete base.
The previous interlocking was there more than 20 years so it's pretty settled (I think).
I had the new one for 2 years now, no weed.
Yes, snow here in Ontario. It's holding up quite nicely (so far)
Originally Posted by Westcoast
The Poly-modified sand when activated stays put and level with the pavers, normal sand washes out slowly with every rain and... because they didn't on mine I am intimately familiar with spending time on my hands and knees cleaning the gaps between!
Thanks for the info.
Between the weeds, damn ants, and shovel catching the edges of the smaller interlocking blocks; I am done with what I have.
Not a fan of bare concrete because of tire marks. I also saw stamped concrete that didn’t fare well with time.
10-10-2020 | 11:31 AM
