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What type of wire are you guys using to hold it open?
I used stainless steel picture wire that I had laying around...but only had it on there for a few days to assess if I liked sound of valve always open, which I did....
Here's a pic of my DIY wire job.
I found using a thin wire but 3 separate applications gave an easier and sufficiently strong fit
(The wires are applied with the car off and then the valves are in the default open position.)
Thanks for posting this!
I just did a modified version that is working great. It took maybe 20 minutes including some fiddling around time and used galvanized wire I already had on hand. Probably the best zero cost mod I've ever used! I can't imagine holding the plunger open hurts anything... it shouldn't be much different than when the valve comes to a stop... just earlier.
The car certainly sounds much better this way - at least from the cockpit where I hear it - and there was no time spent fiddling with the hoses or power hookups etc. The dead spot is gone. That previously-silenced mid-RPM-range sound is much better than I had imagined. I like it enough that now I have no plan to go to an aftermarket exhaust. (But no promises I won't change my mind some day). I'd still like to hear the results from the outside but need to get someone I trust to do some runs past me.
My mod was to simple wrap the wire around the stub on the back side where the other side of the valve's pivot rod rests rather than all of the way around the exhaust pipe. See the photos below. It was easy to pull tight this way leaving only the slightest hint of movement in the valve.
I see some people chose to force the valves open instead of opting for the valve controller. I think I may go for this option but is it something a total noob can do just fine? I haven't found any great tutorial on it, would the dealer do it if I asked them or am I better trying on my own? I've also seen some speculation this is somehow bad for the car, although im not sure how that is possible?
It's pretty simple all you need is a cap to cover the valves and something to plug into the vacuum line. The lines are easily removed off the valve with some pliers. I personally went with a controller since I live in SOCAL and would prefer the cops not to bother me lol.
Thank you a lot! I found everything I was searching for.
I'm going to quote all interesting posts for everyone who is searching for this topic:
Solution 2:
is there a reason why I have to reconnect the lines instead of just zip-tying them? If i put a screw in the hole and then replug the lines this will somehow stop them from closing?
So I tried the "Wire Full Open" and did not like the slight drone when cruising around town. So I wanted a way to have the exhaust valves close "part way" in the ~1800-3800 rpm range, giving the increased volume desired, yet not the full blast.... and some adjustability to select the desired exhaust level.
for a 6mm shaft (that's what the Valve shaft measures), and black oxide finished for corrosion protection. They cost about $13 for a set of 4, so I ordered a set.
They took about 5 minutes each to install, mainly due to not lifting the car and working up close thus my eyes were taxed. They fit perfectly and allow for significant adjustability in how much valve closure you desire. When the valves pull shut, the split collar stop squarely on the valve mounting bracket.
I set them with approximately 70% valve closure, you will hear a very slight reduction in volume at ~1800 rpm when accelerating, yet you have to be listening for it to notice it, other wise the exhaust note sound smooth and very linear as the rpm increase. No drone, and a perfect increase in exhaust note volume in the 1800-3800 rpm cruising range!
02-08-2022, 07:22 PM
