Long Term Storage
#31
Pro
I’ll be storing my car for at least 6 months (Canadian winter), and have a quick question regarding the tire pressure.
The checklist recommends over-inflating the tires by 8-10psi. Does that mean 8-10psi above the recommended pressure listed on the door jam sticker or 8-10psi above the max pressure listed on the tire sidewall?
The checklist recommends over-inflating the tires by 8-10psi. Does that mean 8-10psi above the recommended pressure listed on the door jam sticker or 8-10psi above the max pressure listed on the tire sidewall?
#32
Most modern wheels and tires should not see any appreciable pressure drop over a winter storage (except for temperature variation). They certainly shouldn't see 8-10 psi. This is more for keeping the tires, particularly soft performance tires, from flat spotting. But it isn't even all that effective. Get good tire cradles to prevent flat spotting on a cold concrete (most likely) floor. If you are really serious, you can put the car on jack stands.
The pressure on the sidewall is maximum cold pressure. I would not exceed this, even for storage as it is not necessary.
The pressure on the sidewall is maximum cold pressure. I would not exceed this, even for storage as it is not necessary.
I've stored our car for two winters, inflating the tires to max pressure without using cradles. There have been no issues when coming out of storage.
FWIW & MOO
#33
You should not put your car on jack stands for extended periods. It leaves shock components exposed that usually aren't exposed to the elements.
I've stored our car for two winters, inflating the tires to max pressure without using cradles. There have been no issues when coming out of storage.
FWIW & MOO
I've stored our car for two winters, inflating the tires to max pressure without using cradles. There have been no issues when coming out of storage.
FWIW & MOO
As for the "exposed suspension", what parts are you referring to? The piston rod? Part of that same piece is regularly exposed to not just air but mud, rain, dirt etc. in normal driving and then goes into the shock body on compression. The only argument I've heard for not storing car on jack stands is bushing stress and sway bar loading. Both are really only an issue if your suspension is already beat. Unhooking the sway bar is an easy move anyway--if you're already going to the trouble of jack stands.
#34
Rennlist Member
8-10 psi over normal operating pressure (sticker on the door jam). I put mine upto 50 (max rating for the tire) and haven't had an issue. BUT, the most performance tire I've ever used was a Pilot Super Sport. No issues come spring, just drop the pressure back down to operating pressures and away you go..
#35
Rennlist Member
#36
The over-inflation can and does work for helping flat spots, just not always. Dependent on floor, temperature, tire etc. Having them off the ground or on good cradles practically guarantees no flat spots.
As for the "exposed suspension", what parts are you referring to? The piston rod? Part of that same piece is regularly exposed to not just air but mud, rain, dirt etc. in normal driving and then goes into the shock body on compression. The only argument I've heard for not storing car on jack stands is bushing stress and sway bar loading. Both are really only an issue if your suspension is already beat. Unhooking the sway bar is an easy move anyway--if you're already going to the trouble of jack stands.
As for the "exposed suspension", what parts are you referring to? The piston rod? Part of that same piece is regularly exposed to not just air but mud, rain, dirt etc. in normal driving and then goes into the shock body on compression. The only argument I've heard for not storing car on jack stands is bushing stress and sway bar loading. Both are really only an issue if your suspension is already beat. Unhooking the sway bar is an easy move anyway--if you're already going to the trouble of jack stands.
I personally would not want my suspension hanging like that for more than a couple weeks but that's MOO!