halfmonkey

I've been looking into PCCB option for the Spyder and hoping to get some answers as I couldn't find them or maybe didn't look with the correct search word. In any case, here is my scenario and I understand that the longevity of brakes is like the longevity of tires. Some may end of up on the short end of the longevity time line and others may end up on the long time frame depending on use and many other factors but curious to know what Porsche generally regards as an average.

I know Porsche says it should last the "lifetime" of the vehicle but how does Porsche really define "lifetime?" We do plan on keeping the vehicle for possibly 20+ years. Of course the miles will be very minimal. I don't plan on tracking my car, maybe once or twice but it really will be just a weekend, cars and coffee, Vegas, nice dinner/evening kind of car with the wifey mostly top down. I do understand the performance benefits of the PCCB and considering that I don't plan to regularly track my car, that benefit doesn't really apply to me. I do like that my wheels will stay cleaner and of course the reduced unsprung weight. Yellow calipers will not match GR but I see you can select the black caliper option.

So my questions are regarding misc cost, servicing costs, etc?

1. Other than the rotors actually wearing out from use or being damaged, will there be any other reason to need to replace the rotors such as will the rotors degrade over time from the elements even if minimal miles are only being put on the car? Never had CCB so don't have personal experience with these products.
2. I read on another thread that someone said they were recommended to replace pads when they got down to 50%. That seems too soon. Does anybody know how much pad replacements cost at the dealer?
3. Is there any kind of special brake service that needs to be performed on the PCCB aside from brake fluid flushes? Again, never had CCB so don't have personal experience with them.
4. Are CCB prone to warping like steel rotors? I'm guessing not. How good are Porsche steel rotors when it comes to not warping? I know the steel rotors are vented and cross drilled and they're larger so they have more surface area to help dissipate heat but they're steel and still susceptible to warping, I guess. Just curious if Porsche steel rotors maybe warp less than usual?

I think generally speaking regular rotors are expected to last anywhere between 40,000-70,000 miles again depending on use. If my car never reaches those mileage numbers, I guess I wouldn't need to replace the rotors if I stick with standard rotors instead of replacing to PCCB so that would be $8,000 wasted on squeaky brakes with yellow calipers that weigh less than steel counterpart. I guess if I get the PCCB, we have the luxury of knowing that the rotors should last the "lifetime" of the car without needing to be replaced under normal circumstances.

I'm copying a response from another thread. I'm not sure what the breakdown is of the $4000 maintenance cost that the person is referring to though.

$4K savings on brake maintenance (over life of car).

That leaves just $4K to justify with the following:

Added Safety (as 991TurboS stated).
Less Unsprung Weight (so better ride & handling).
Cleaner Wheels
Bling Apperance

If each of those is worth $1K each, you are good to go!

iliveoncaffiene

1. Pads are more expensive. They don't rust, and AFAIK don't have any degradation due to time. Most of the wear attributed to them has to do with heat
2. I also read this, but I'm not really sure if I completely believe it. Replacement pads can be seen here: https://www.suncoastparts.com/catego...cgt4br450.html ($1000 for full set of front/rear pads)
3. No (unless you've read otherwise, which I'd love to know)

"lifetime" you can guesstimate anywhere between 50k -> 100K depending on use. Wear will be increased if the rotors are consistently up to temperature (ex: on track with consistent high speed braking).
Mine has a similar use to yours (1-2 track days a year) but will be daily driven. I count on these lasting many years, and assuming they last those many years and it comes time to replace and I want CCB again, I will be replacing with a set of Surface Transforms replacements (~50% the price of OEM CCB, and they can be resurfaced).
Surface Transforms also recommends you can just get the OEM steels, and buy their disc upgrade set (410mm/400mm) for $12k, and then the net cost over OEM CCB is just $4k with the ability to resurface them instead of having to completely replace.

halfmonkey

I was hoping "lifetime" would mean something more along the lines of 100k-150k or even 150k-200k. One can hope and wish.

colnagoG60

Bought mine CPO, and to pass inspection, I had to get the rotors measured with a "density tool", as supposedly the rotor thickness does not change. Also heard just street driving, life is ~100k miles. With 30k miles on the clock at purchase, I believe I was told that the rotor density was at ~9x%. I originally planned on getting a 718 GT4, sans PCCB, but when specs came out, I opted for a 981 that came up locally, w/PCCB...regretting the decision. Switched to all-seasons soon after purchase last Aug., and reluctant to go back on summers as I'm growing increasingly paranoid about having rotors rendered useless, from damage from removing the wheels. YMMV.

Jawnathin

As noted earlier, CCB life isn’t measured by thickness as they don’t wear like steel rotors. CCBs wear when they get hot and the rotor material evaporates due to the heat. This is why they last a ‘lifetime’ on the street with much shorter track day life. Their life is measured by their weight. Can’t say for sure whats on these PCCBs but my previous CCB car had the minimum weight stamped on the hat of the rotor. Once the rotor was below that weight that is how you knew to replace them.

Regarding taking care of them, they were pretty simple. I too was worried about damaging the rotor when mounting wheels onto the hub. Its a valid concern but if you’re careful it shouldn’t be an issue. On a Porsche you can use aluminum guide rods to guide the wheel cleanly into the hub and avoid hitting rotors. For extra protection you can throw a towel/rag over the exposed rotor area so if it a wheel does bump against the rotor, some of the impact can be absorbed. Then once the wheel is mounted, pull the towel through a wheel spoke.

Larry Cable

also remember that there are now some companies who will "refurbish" PCCB...

Larry Cable

get the tool - there is little or no chance of rotor damage while changing wheels... most if not all dealers use one to change wheels on PCCB cars...

colnagoG60

Yeah, I know about the tool, but I don't get tires replaced at the dealer, and there is no way to ensure whoever is installing the tire will use it...short of letting them know ahead of time what it will cost them to replace if they damage. Moving to studs is the other option.

Larry Cable

I take my tool to a local Tirerack installer and ask that they use it - AFIAK they do, esp after I explained to them that any rotor damage would be an issue - but then the installer i use is not your average local gas station
installer...

Also note that any such damage should be covered by your comprehensive auto insurance... YMMV

2XIPA

If you don't track the PCCB's should last the lifetime of the car. Pads well that's a different story.

benben01

Wheels are so much cleaner with PCCB. Like others have opined, if you are don't plan on tracking it or abusing it on the the streets, PCCBs are great. Even if you get to the point of PCCB replacement, there are steel rotor options at a fraction of the cost.

Westcoast

Besides getting the removal pin, actually I recommend using 2, I plan to wrap the rotor with foam when I change wheels. If you are concerned about the wheel shop, get a quick jack lift, take the wheels off yourself and take them in for the tire replacement.

We talked about the RE980A's in another thread, I won't be letting any tire shop R&R my wheels on the Spyder, and they won't have the car either... I will bring the wheels to them.

Illusive991

I always swap my own wheels each season; the best and IMO safest method using a floor jack was to jack the corner up so the wheel is just barely off the ground. My steps were: jack corner up and loosen each lug bolt before the tire is off the ground, raise corner until the wheel is just off the ground (and set up a jack stand if you're concerned about your floor jack giving out), remove lug bolts, take wheel off of hub and you can then set it on the ground with more than enough clearance all around, slowly pull the wheel towards you straight out by the spokes. Reverse to put on the new wheel. #1 thing is to just take your time! No need to rush. Even then, it took me no more than 30 mins going slowly to do all four wheels with no issues for multiple seasons.

benben01

I have a quick jack lift as well.. However, the Lift Bars are super efficient and fast to set up. http://liftbars.com/