I have $80k. Base with some performance stuff or bare bones S?
#17
Three Wheelin'
I’m glad you brought that up. Is an 18/19 the same car as a 2021+? I guess my question is if a base 2021 is a better car than a 2019 S/GTS mileage and condition being equal. I’m not concerned with resale, I keep cars a long time. I love the 2.5 GTS but don’t love it’s s bit older than the base cars I can buy. Non issue?
That said, the 2.5 GTS is nearly identical to the 4.0 GTS in all but engine.
#18
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
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I’m glad you brought that up. Is an 18/19 the same car as a 2021+? I guess my question is if a base 2021 is a better car than a 2019 S/GTS mileage and condition being equal. I’m not concerned with resale, I keep cars a long time. I love the 2.5 GTS but don’t love it’s s bit older than the base cars I can buy. Non issue?
The base and S are essentially the same through now. Some small equipment changes in the connect or Apple CarPlay or other small option differences.
GTS has two different trims in 4 and 6 cylinder.
Ts were ordered in limited numbers.
Pick a trim, and then get the newest best conditioned car you can.
I’d buy from a dealer that included CPO.
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lion shf (06-12-2023)
#22
RL Community Team
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lion shf (06-12-2023)
#23
Racer
The performance difference is in two areas where the larger engine makes a difference: at low rpm below the turbo comes on strong, and at high speeds where you are in license-losing territory.
The options can make a difference whenever you're driving.
Your choice—buy the one you like best.
The options can make a difference whenever you're driving.
Your choice—buy the one you like best.
#25
Drifting
#26
#27
Drifting
No one needs a LSD, but it does enrage me to not have a LSD at the limit. 1 tire fire on corner exit is such a limp wristed handling characteristic it's an instant turn off for me. Only like maybe 3-5% of Cayman S owners get PTV so it's a super rare option, but for me it was a must have. You can get an aftermarket LSD cheap from Deman though relatively cheap.
Suspension for the street isn't really necessary but it can help the feel. Stock stuff is good but designed as a compromise to do nothing specifically the best it can be done so there is no trade off with doing something else like ride comfort terribly. For track though it's pretty much necessary for additional adjustment since the factory camber range is really poor so with more negative camber the tire will make better contact with the pavement in the corners. Anytime you can get the tire to keep contact with the pavement when it's bouncing around over bumps is an advantage also. Spring rates, sway bars, redoing suspension, being able to adjust the height of the car can help with the car maintaining as much contact patch as possible too.
You can modify a street car to handle better, but IMO you shouldn't do it yourself or trust a 'performance' shop to do it either. Besides swapping in a set of kw coilovers or whatever, aynone trying to re-engineer the car to handle better by mucking with everything is almost guaranteed to turn it into something far worse than stock. The worst handling cars I instruct are consistently the street cars turned into 'track cars' with way too many suspension mods, all setup by the owner or someone who doesn't know what htey're doing to correct a problem the driver has that only needs to be corrected with driver skill, not modifying the car (such as it needs more rotation!). WHat happens is people with no driver skills can't figure out how to rotate a car, and they learn the car (all cars are setup to understeer) is setup to understeer slightly, that they modify the car for maximum rotation! These cars often become undrivable and terrifying on the track. I can think of one specifically that I was setup so bad that I knew if I came anywhere near the edge it was going to want to loop itself. Slowest car I ever drove on teh track because of that, slower than a 2000ish automatic inline 4 accord i once got for a student. There are fellow road racers that have cars setup to over rotate even. These guys are usually backmarkers. Any car can be rotated with driver skill so it's not necessary to modify a car to achieve that result (although changing the alignment settings to remove the -1.5 degrees camber some cars come with and giving it as much upfront as possible with 0.5 more positive camber in the rear than the front is usually a good recipe. if you can run -2 in the front, run -1.5 in the rear). Porsche spent a lot of money figuring otu how to make the suspension pretty decent, you can make it better fairly easily by doing a few things, but if you're going to muck with swaybars nad spring rates almost guaranteed it'll end up worse so I'd say don't do it.
But I am literally the worst person to ask about suspension setup for how many years I've been racing. I figure driver skill can over come a lot so I don't bother fine tuning anything I race beyond the bare minimum to get even tire wear.
If you want SC, it's not like you can add it later so you probably want to find one with it. It doesn't do anything in my GT4 except look pretty.
PASM goes out the window if you're going to change the suspension anyway, but if you're going to leave it stock, I'd want it, and it looks better too with the lower springs.
Suspension for the street isn't really necessary but it can help the feel. Stock stuff is good but designed as a compromise to do nothing specifically the best it can be done so there is no trade off with doing something else like ride comfort terribly. For track though it's pretty much necessary for additional adjustment since the factory camber range is really poor so with more negative camber the tire will make better contact with the pavement in the corners. Anytime you can get the tire to keep contact with the pavement when it's bouncing around over bumps is an advantage also. Spring rates, sway bars, redoing suspension, being able to adjust the height of the car can help with the car maintaining as much contact patch as possible too.
You can modify a street car to handle better, but IMO you shouldn't do it yourself or trust a 'performance' shop to do it either. Besides swapping in a set of kw coilovers or whatever, aynone trying to re-engineer the car to handle better by mucking with everything is almost guaranteed to turn it into something far worse than stock. The worst handling cars I instruct are consistently the street cars turned into 'track cars' with way too many suspension mods, all setup by the owner or someone who doesn't know what htey're doing to correct a problem the driver has that only needs to be corrected with driver skill, not modifying the car (such as it needs more rotation!). WHat happens is people with no driver skills can't figure out how to rotate a car, and they learn the car (all cars are setup to understeer) is setup to understeer slightly, that they modify the car for maximum rotation! These cars often become undrivable and terrifying on the track. I can think of one specifically that I was setup so bad that I knew if I came anywhere near the edge it was going to want to loop itself. Slowest car I ever drove on teh track because of that, slower than a 2000ish automatic inline 4 accord i once got for a student. There are fellow road racers that have cars setup to over rotate even. These guys are usually backmarkers. Any car can be rotated with driver skill so it's not necessary to modify a car to achieve that result (although changing the alignment settings to remove the -1.5 degrees camber some cars come with and giving it as much upfront as possible with 0.5 more positive camber in the rear than the front is usually a good recipe. if you can run -2 in the front, run -1.5 in the rear). Porsche spent a lot of money figuring otu how to make the suspension pretty decent, you can make it better fairly easily by doing a few things, but if you're going to muck with swaybars nad spring rates almost guaranteed it'll end up worse so I'd say don't do it.
But I am literally the worst person to ask about suspension setup for how many years I've been racing. I figure driver skill can over come a lot so I don't bother fine tuning anything I race beyond the bare minimum to get even tire wear.
If you want SC, it's not like you can add it later so you probably want to find one with it. It doesn't do anything in my GT4 except look pretty.
PASM goes out the window if you're going to change the suspension anyway, but if you're going to leave it stock, I'd want it, and it looks better too with the lower springs.
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lion shf (06-13-2023)
#29
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
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Post above talking about SC and GT4 is a different conversation.
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lion shf (06-14-2023)