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Attached are a few pics from this week. Looks very mild BUT keep the following in mind:
- I run a catless turbo back exhaust
- everything from the turbo back is heat wrapped
- I run GIAC which takes heat into account and is more conservative than other tunes
We also added a heat shield plate between the wastegate and turbo to further prevent the spread of heat.
I have not had limp/protective mode ever turn on because I did all of these mods before my first track day. You can disregard what I did but everything was based on learning and avoiding what hasn’t worked.
Ultimately you need more air to cool those parts at speed especially if you run PDK and some of the more aggressive tunes.
Attached are a few pics from this week. Looks very mild BUT keep the following in mind:
- I run a catless turbo back exhaust
- everything from the turbo back is heat wrapped
- I run GIAC which takes heat into account and is more conservative than other tunes
We also added a heat shield plate between the wastegate and turbo to further prevent the spread of heat.
I have not had limp/protective mode ever turn on because I did all of these mods before my first track day. You can disregard what I did but everything was based on learning and avoiding what hasn’t worked.
Ultimately you need more air to cool those parts at speed especially if you run PDK and some of the more aggressive tunes.
Thanks for that. Would enjoy seeing the heat wrap and heat shield plate that you installed as well. My car has all of this apart right now and I’ve got the heat wrap waiting to be installed.
Here is the heatshield. I don't have pics of all the wrapping but it's essential before/after turbo. My shop can build a few more of these if anyone is interested. Just DM me and I'll get you a rough cost to fabricate.
Did you have the limp issue prior to this mod? It would be great if this was the fix. Easy peasy.
Originally Posted by ldamelio
Just to clarify, for you guys that have modified the underbody panel - did you have limp mode and this cured it? I ask because some cars seem to have it and some don't. At NJMP last week, I ran in the blue/white with a guy with a near identical car - his was a 17 S PDK, mine is an 18. Our lap times were near identical. He did not have limp mode (and had never heard of it) and I did. Presumably, we were running similar RPM around the track as both cars were PDK and we were stuck to each other like glue.
Cayman_Sense, I look forward to your photos. Any how-to tricks other than just bending with channel locks?
To answer both of you, yes, I've experienced it multiple times. Boost at WOT is typically 16psi on my tune. Boost with the overheat issue hits just 6psi....it's an absolute gut punch.
Here is the heatshield. I don't have pics of all the wrapping but it's essential before/after turbo. My shop can build a few more of these if anyone is interested. Just DM me and I'll get you a rough cost to fabricate.
I considered building a more elaborate heat shield than what OEM offers too. How complex was it? I might be interested in it too. I was kinda waiting to see if my issues would return this summer or not. I have the header wrap in the garage and plan to get around to it during my next oil change. Did you just do the turbo back or did you do the exhaust manifold too?
We wrapped the first part of the manifold leading up to the turbo. Ultimately, the heat needs to go somewhere so I didn't want to risk the heat getting trapped upstream. I'm not a scientist but that felt right!
To answer both of you, yes, I've experienced it multiple times. Boost at WOT is typically 16psi on my tune. Boost with the overheat issue hits just 6psi....it's an absolute gut punch.
This is consistent with what have seen too. Max PSI reads 6 lbs
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i wonder if it would be more efficient if the bends were similar to an aftermarket sea-doo intake? the factory style is just some bars on the same plane while aftermarket versions have angled fins that stick down into the water to force more water into the impeller.
factory style
aftermarket style
there was a noticeable difference when i went with this option. if you have ever ridden one the surges that come and go were completely gone with it as the impeller ALWAYS had water passing over it.
Very nice work there. I had to do a double take thinking that was OEM and was worried mine is missing. Where'd you get the material for the best price? I think I might do the same. That spot is right by the turbo so any heat radiating is going to be in super close proximity to the actuator motor.
How did you yield the shape you ended up with? It appears to be a 1ft wide section that you cut to length and then notched around the collector? Also, any worries about it covering the flex pipe portion a little? I'm guessing you just moved the clamp to the hard pipe and let it float over the flex area?
Very nice work there. I had to do a double take thinking that was OEM and was worried mine is missing. Where'd you get the material for the best price? I think I might do the same. That spot is right by the turbo so any heat radiating is going to be in super close proximity to the actuator motor.
How did you yield the shape you ended up with? It appears to be a 1ft wide section that you cut to length and then notched around the collector? Also, any worries about it covering the flex pipe portion a little? I'm guessing you just moved the clamp to the hard pipe and let it float over the flex area?
I purchased from eastwood.com https://www.eastwood.com/search/?q=h...eld%20products but heat shield products are available from other distributors as well.
this material is easy to trim to the appropriate shape, and I purchased a modest amount but I probably could do three or four more of these. The flex section is not a concern as it’s not firmly attached to that area. So it’ll just float over it.
i wonder if it would be more efficient if the bends were similar to an aftermarket sea-doo intake? the factory style is just some bars on the same plane while aftermarket versions have angled fins that stick down into the water to force more water into the impeller.
there was a noticeable difference when i went with this option. if you have ever ridden one the surges that come and go were completely gone with it as the impeller ALWAYS had water passing over it.
The factory tray has a small NACA duct to try to move air up into this area in a drag free method. I bent it down as much as you reasonably could, and if this is effective great. If not, I’m going to cut the area out and go with a more significant scoop, such as the aftermarket image you posted.
I haven't read this whole thread. Have a 4cyl GTS which I don't think this affects.
The engineer in me wonders: what if you make a little bracket to lock the VTG linkage in its maximum flow position, then unbolt the actuator and tuck it someplace cooler. Not an ideal solution since you would lose the joys of vtg, but probably not a huge deal on a race track where you are mostly on the fun side of the tack anyways. Just thinking outloud for fun, maybe its been done, proposed, or ruled out prior.
I haven't read this whole thread. Have a 4cyl GTS which I don't think this affects.
The engineer in me wonders: what if you make a little bracket to lock the VTG linkage in its maximum flow position, then unbolt the actuator and tuck it someplace cooler. Not an ideal solution since you would lose the joys of vtg, but probably not a huge deal on a race track where you are mostly on the fun side of the tack anyways. Just thinking outloud for fun, maybe its been done, proposed, or ruled out prior.
I was actually thinking of suggesting to just go with the base 2.0L engine. No VGT actuator and the engine should be a bit more robust; smaller bore and stroke for less piston side loading and lower piston speeds. The 2.0L also has better balance. The 2.5L has a different damped pulley to help deal with the extra vibrations from the larger displacement engine.