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The OEM big brake kit has been great for us so far. It does allow the larger GT3 front pad for increased surface area and better wear. Pads have been wearing very well for us in fast PCA groups at Sebring and that was our main concern as we were running through pads very quickly on the old setup. We prefer PFC over Pagid pads but PFC doesn't make a rear fitment for this caliper so we are running Pagid for now. When it's time for new pads we're going to try the Ferodo DS3.12 to see how they are. Our car also has PTV
The front caliper is a 718 GTS 4.0 six piston and the rear is from the 991.2 Carrera 4S 4 piston. The brake master cylinder is from the 991 Carrera 4GTS and we have coding the brake bias for PCCB. This is at the recommendation of our Goldmeister and Cup Car certified master technician who also served as a crew chief for a 991 GT America race car.
Originally Posted by donR
I'm just in the process of doing this upgrade. Just wondering what your long term review is on the GTS 4.0 350/350mm brake upgrade? Much improvement on the standard 718 350/320mm disc rotor upgrade for fast track use? Any issues with brake bias or re-programming required? I notice OEM carbon ceramics are 350f/350r so maybe not?
The front 4.0 girodisc rotor is same 350 x 34mm size as the standard 718 Girodisc upgrade, so maybe minor improvement on the front? Although, the 4.0 6 piston caliper has a much larger pad area and I am told you can run GT3 size pads so perhaps better wear but more heat?
The rear 4.0 350 x 28mm Giro disc is a considerable upgrade to the standard 718 Girodisc upgrade of 325x20mm, as well as larger pad. So I'm thinking this will be a big help for PTV cars which tend to chew up the rear pads/rotors, as I've found.
Very interested to hear your latest review on this set up or anyone else who has gone this way.
I having been running the standard 718 350/325mm girodisc rotors but I am on my second rotor set and have frequently had problems with too much heat and pad deposits leading to brake shudder on both DS 3.1 and Pagid RSL 1 pads, so looking to some improvements with the 350/350 girodisc and caliper upgrade. I am also upgrading to the 991/981 Boxster Spyder master cylinder. For others who are interested in this upgrade, the 991/992 S/4S calipers are also suitable but note the rear rotor hat is slightly different offset for the cayman/boxter.
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Hi all, I'm sorry if I'm beating a dead horse here, or if I didn't read back far enough. What year is everyone's CS is experiencing this servo overheat issue? Is everyone basically a '17/'18, any '19+? Thanks in advance. And thanks Suncoast for sharing this build and all of your experiences!
Any updates from the early season? I had the issue for the first time at NJMP Lightning earlier this week. Ambient temps in the 60s. It's my third season and I'm driving harder/faster. Previously only had it at Pocono N/S where there are two long straights at redline.
I corresponded with cbracerx (dergarage.com) who also runs a 2018 CS. He's had success with underbody panel removal, but I'm a little hesitant to do this as I drive to the track. He's also working on other potential fixes including some heat shielding and underbody panel modification. (Chris - happy to be the guinea pig for these if you're reading.)
Anyone else have any updates the issue ? (or share your woes). I'm on the verge of developing the car more (seats/cage/lower/maybe tune) but I don't want to put the money in if the limp becomes a regular thing limiting my fun and progression.
Hi all, I'm sorry if I'm beating a dead horse here, or if I didn't read back far enough. What year is everyone's CS is experiencing this servo overheat issue? Is everyone basically a '17/'18, any '19+? Thanks in advance. And thanks Suncoast for sharing this build and all of your experiences!
'17 and '18 S models
Originally Posted by ldamelio
Any updates from the early season? I had the issue for the first time at NJMP Lightning earlier this week. Ambient temps in the 60s. It's my third season and I'm driving harder/faster. Previously only had it at Pocono N/S where there are two long straights at redline.
I corresponded with cbracerx (dergarage.com) who also runs a 2018 CS. He's had success with underbody panel removal, but I'm a little hesitant to do this as I drive to the track. He's also working on other potential fixes including some heat shielding and underbody panel modification. (Chris - happy to be the guinea pig for these if you're reading.)
Anyone else have any updates the issue ? (or share your woes). I'm on the verge of developing the car more (seats/cage/lower/maybe tune) but I don't want to put the money in if the limp becomes a regular thing limiting my fun and progression.
as posted before i tried just about everything - removed the belly pan/liner (at daytona so there was ample airflow), added the 3rd radiator, changed the servo temp sensor - with no changes. in the end i bought a track-prep'd 987.2 and that solved the issue
I don't think a base will be better in this regard. It will be slower all the time vs just some of the time on track haha.
That said, I've had good luck bending down one of the fins (circled in red) so it scoops a bit more air and directs it to the turbo. It's not yet bent in the picture but I'm just showing you where to bend. Using some channel locks works quite well. Ultimately, you're just trying to dip that fin a bit deeper into the air flow to grab more air and direct it up to the turbo. I did it this spring and have yet to experience the turbo servo overheating since that time and I've been on track probably 4 times since then. Car has been solid.
I don't think a base will be better in this regard. It will be slower all the time vs just some of the time on track haha.
That said, I've had good luck bending down one of the fins (circled in red) so it scoops a bit more air and directs it to the turbo. It's not yet bent in the picture but I'm just showing you where to bend. Using some channel locks works quite well. Ultimately, you're just trying to dip that fin a bit deeper into the air flow to grab more air and direct it up to the turbo. I did it this spring and have yet to experience the turbo servo overheating since that time and I've been on track probably 4 times since then. Car has been solid.
Did you have the limp issue prior to this mod? It would be great if this was the fix. Easy peasy.
I don't think a base will be better in this regard. It will be slower all the time vs just some of the time on track haha.
That said, I've had good luck bending down one of the fins (circled in red) so it scoops a bit more air and directs it to the turbo. It's not yet bent in the picture but I'm just showing you where to bend. Using some channel locks works quite well. Ultimately, you're just trying to dip that fin a bit deeper into the air flow to grab more air and direct it up to the turbo. I did it this spring and have yet to experience the turbo servo overheating since that time and I've been on track probably 4 times since then. Car has been solid.
we did the same thing. Ducting more air. I don’t have limp mode in my ‘17.
ill send pics of my underbody panel next time it’s up on a lift.
Just to clarify, for you guys that have modified the underbody panel - did you have limp mode and this cured it? I ask because some cars seem to have it and some don't. At NJMP last week, I ran in the blue/white with a guy with a near identical car - his was a 17 S PDK, mine is an 18. Our lap times were near identical. He did not have limp mode (and had never heard of it) and I did. Presumably, we were running similar RPM around the track as both cars were PDK and we were stuck to each other like glue.
Cayman_Sense, I look forward to your photos. Any how-to tricks other than just bending with channel locks?
just to be clear it's not really limp mode, it's more like a protection of sorts i guess. for example at mid-ohio i am typically 145-150ish at the end of the back straight. once the issue kicks in at best i can get to around 115-120ish at the same point.
just to be clear it's not really limp mode, it's more like a protection of sorts i guess. for example at mid-ohio i am typically 145-150ish at the end of the back straight. once the issue kicks in at best i can get to around 115-120ish at the same point.
Yep, it turns into a Miata. Still revs to redline but little to no boost. I usually just dial it back for a lap or two. Once the temp goes below 250F all is good.
03-20-2023 | 10:07 AM
