tyro

What's the general concensus when it comes to flywheel seal depth into it's bore in the block/girdle?

1. Flush
2. Just beyond flush
3. Fully into bore

If it's driven fully into the bore, can the seal partially block the oil return machined into the girdle? See pic from manual, upper arrow:

Ski

flush to almost flush. You'll feel the ridge of the seal over the lip of the girdle. Start it with a twisting action so the inner spring stays in place when it goes over the crank.

xtaC

Heres a before and after of when I did mine, while doing the clutch.

No seal:



With Seal:




As you can see, its just past flush.

turboted

Sorry to ressurect an old thread. Searching has not revealed the answer to my question.

I am replacing my RMS and looking for advice on the correct technique to install the new seal correctly. I want to do this correctly the FIRST time. Do I need to buy a special tool? Do I just tap the seal in and make sure it seats flush all the way around? Do I twist it as I install it? I've read about making a tool from a 4" piece of PVC pipe to tap it in. What's the best way?

TIA

Teddy952

I had to do this twice because the first seal leaked bad. Clean the area thoroughly and use some CurilT sealant on the outside edges of the new RMS. I used a hammer and tapped the seal in getting it started then used a piece of PVC the same size as the RMS to drive it in till it bottoms out.

turboted

Ouch...sorry about your luck...this is what I'm trying to avoid. Thanks for the tip on the CurilT.

shortyboy

where can i purchase this Curil T?any auto parts store?

shortyboy

so is it ok to go all the way in until it stops?i used the pvc cap and one half went in and the other was still out. i used the hammer to tap on the side that was still out until it went in.then i went until the seal was fully in.is it ok to do that or should i replace it?

TRP951

you should drive it in evenly I would get another one but thats me some other people should chime in

PorscheDoc

I would pull that seal and replace it. You can get it started by hand so that all edges are over the crank. Then use a pvc pipe or something suitable and tap it in slowly, going around in a circle a little at a time so it goes in evenly. The biggest thing is to make sure the seal is sitting even on all sides once it is seated, in respects to the block.

dacula951

I think having it in all the way until it bottoms out on the first lip in the block is a perfectly legitimate location for it to be. I would however be concerned that the one you installed is distorted from being put in unevenly.

shortyboy

k i bought a new one and will install it a little past flush.

Bri Bro

If you don't drive it in evenly you can bend the metal shell of the seal and make it slightly out of round and it will leak. There is a lip at the back of the bore that the seal should sit against, it can't go into the bore too far. The lip insures that there is a gap for the oil to flow behind the seal to keep it lubricated.

Dave951

I remember in the past there were 2 different color/materials used for the real main seal. One being a black seal, the other red. Some people said one was superior to the other. Which one is the best? Are they both still being made?

chris951

Seal needs to be flush. Removing the old seal can either be done carefully with a big flat head screwdriver or the easy way with a seal removal tool(under $10 at most autoparts places.) DO NOT scratch any of the surfaces that the seal mates with, if you do it WILL leak.

My choice method for installing seals like that is using a small block of wood and a hammer. Just tap the seal in evenly using the wood between the seal and the hammer so you do not tear the seal. Some people put some RTV silicone on the edges of the RMS for insurance, however if you install it correctly you shouldn't have to.

I think RMS should be replaced when you are doing a clutch because it's cheap and I have a "replace everything in that area while it's apart" philosophy. I think everyone will agree that getting to the RMS is a PITA.