cost to paint?
#1
cost to paint?
If I find a 356 that has everything I want but wrong color, how much does it cost to repaint it? Who should I go to in Northern Cal for that? I am in Monterey area, but I could go as far as SF or SJ. Thanks guys.
#2
I own a restoration and custom shop. First off you really need to ask yourself what your intentions are for the car. 356's have all really jumped up in price as of late. Repaint in a non original color may cost you some resale money. But to address your question, I would expect to pay about $8500.00 for a quality disassemble, paint, and reassemble basecoat / clearcoat system. I like Sikkens brand.
#3
Thank you for the reply. My intention was to have the car in the color I wanted which is some type of blue. As I shop around for my first 356, I see so many reds, silvers and blacks. It is difficult to get everything you want in a used car I guess... When I had my 993, it was a ocean blue exterior and I got many compliments on it. It looked good in the sun and at night.
#4
I have to admit ocean blue is an extrodianary color and in fact is one of my favorites on the 993. What you say is true about buying used. I settled on a white 993 when I bought mine used. I had to realize that I was buying the car not the color and I couldn't pass up the condition and mileage. However with that being said I say go for it! I think a 356 would look terrific in ocean blue -- maybe even with gray leather interior?
#5
Louis--I will echo what 901 said above--I noticed on your other post that you want a numbers-matching car, so please please please don't spend a bunch of money on a numbers-matching car only to "bastardize" it by repainting it anything but its original color. Honestly, you can get a great driver that is not numbers matching and paint it whatever you want and it will be much more worth your while.
Of course it is your money, but numbers matching cars demand a premium because they are as close to factory spec as possible...if you change the color, especially to something that is non-period specific, you are ruining the purpose of a numbers matching car...
My suggestion--definitely go for a nice driver that you can paint whatever color you want, modify how you want, and you can have a semi-outlaw car that you can enjoy and get your money back out of in the long run
Of course it is your money, but numbers matching cars demand a premium because they are as close to factory spec as possible...if you change the color, especially to something that is non-period specific, you are ruining the purpose of a numbers matching car...
My suggestion--definitely go for a nice driver that you can paint whatever color you want, modify how you want, and you can have a semi-outlaw car that you can enjoy and get your money back out of in the long run
#6
Cole, that's a very good point. Upon resale to a collector who cares about "numbers matching", a complete, well-executed color change could easily be a $10K deduct - or at best a car of interest to only a small segment of an already small niche market.
When someone is looking for a driver 356, what really matters is that it is indeed a good driver. Chassis integrity (minimal, surface only, or no rust; no unrepaired or poorly repaired accident damage), proper maintainance (w/ records), & a sound drivetrain (inc brakes & steering!) matter most. Changes in exterior & interior colors can always be applied after living with the car for awhile. Then you'll know if it's a keeper, how much you care about maximizing resale value, or if you have a $6K engine rebuild bill to go along w/ you $10K color change.
These are old cars getting older, the market is fragmenting into distinct segments and the prices continue to rise. Before getting into it, one should have a clear picture of their goal & approach.
When someone is looking for a driver 356, what really matters is that it is indeed a good driver. Chassis integrity (minimal, surface only, or no rust; no unrepaired or poorly repaired accident damage), proper maintainance (w/ records), & a sound drivetrain (inc brakes & steering!) matter most. Changes in exterior & interior colors can always be applied after living with the car for awhile. Then you'll know if it's a keeper, how much you care about maximizing resale value, or if you have a $6K engine rebuild bill to go along w/ you $10K color change.
These are old cars getting older, the market is fragmenting into distinct segments and the prices continue to rise. Before getting into it, one should have a clear picture of their goal & approach.
#7
thanks for the input. you are right. It would not make sense to get a 'numbers matching' car and then change the color. I started to read the "Buying, Driving and something 356" by James S..... (the book is at my office right now) I am getting a better sense of what I am looking for. For instance, I will not discriminate against lower horsepower engines anymore. I learned that they can be just as fun to drive. Since I want a driver car I will be more open to all types of B and C cars. Maybe A or pre-A won't be a good choice as a first 356. Am I right? And non numbers matching is okay if it is just for fun anyways. overall condition is more important, i guess...
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#8
Louis, you are on the right track - Schrager's book is a great intro to the 356 (he also has a monthly column on the Porsche market in Sports Car Market magazine). May also be worth checking out Spencer's "356 Performance Handbook", Kellogg's "Guide to Do-it-Yourself Restoration" & Johnson's "356 Restorer's Guide to Authenticity". Wealth of valuable 356 info from experience in these books.
As to motors, quite true - some of the best 356's I've ever driven had Normal motors (75 HP in the C). Also, some owners have a stock motor (#s matching or not) & a "hot" motor (built to 100+ HP, often from a 912 &/or larger displacement P&C set). It is not so big a deal to swap motors in a 356 - one (among many) reasons many cars don't have their original motors.
I agree that a B or C is good approach to one's first 356 - many improvements as the model evolved.
{of course, my first one was an A - still have it!}
As to motors, quite true - some of the best 356's I've ever driven had Normal motors (75 HP in the C). Also, some owners have a stock motor (#s matching or not) & a "hot" motor (built to 100+ HP, often from a 912 &/or larger displacement P&C set). It is not so big a deal to swap motors in a 356 - one (among many) reasons many cars don't have their original motors.
I agree that a B or C is good approach to one's first 356 - many improvements as the model evolved.
{of course, my first one was an A - still have it!}
#9
I will echo what Ked said above Louis--the Schrager book is great and it will help you learn the nuances of the cars, what to look for, etc. The A cars are gorgeous but tend to be more expensive...don't rule them out entirely though. The more you know the better your purchase will be, and you will get ideas about where market is for the cars you are looking for during your search. Keep us updated on your search--I would also highly suggest joining 356registry.org and keeping your eyes peeled in the e-mail list as well as the classified section. Don't be afraid to ask questions, be patient, and you will find a 356 that suits your needs. If you get the right car, you will love it.
#10
64 C
Louis - Sounds like you are in the SF bay area. I know of a 64 C with a need for paint but with a low mileage rebuilt motor that might be what you are looking for. Black plate and $15,000. Numbers matching and white exterior.
Phil
Phil
#12
Don at Safeguard Safteyin Concord called me about 10 days ago @ 925-405-0307. He has had the car for many years and like so many of us finds he needs to reduce his collection because of lack of garage space. Good luck in your search.
Phil
Phil
#15
i finally talked to Don about his 64 C. He was nice and honest about his car. So I knew that was not what I was looking for. Rust issues and body work needed was the conclusion. So I will continue to look again. Thanks to anyone else who can give me a heads up for a clean 356 B or C.