Hey guys I am about to hop into my engine bay and redo all my vacuum lines, delete cycling valve(add MBC) and add lausts manifold. How can I delete my venturi without having to order the kit now, or should I just order it! I have searched and cant find any real good answers on what it exactly entails. Any help with rerouting vacuum lines with lausts 5 port would also be appreciated. One other question: where is the AOS and what does it look like? I have a feeling mine might be leaky from some earlier posts... Any info would be great you guys, im about to ggo start tearing into this thing. (crosses fingers)

 

I will have to get the details from my mech. and I have been hesitant to post this with out the details, but all you need to do to delete/bypass the venturi is change the connection of 1 or 2 intake manifold hoses and that is it.

The "kit" is BS. My mech did it to my car in like 5 min with 1 or 2 changes and ripped out the venturi and still have full vac/power brakes etc.

 

Venturi delete is not hard... and you don't need a kit. I just used a bit of heater hose. If you find you need some preformed hose for some reason, just go to Autozone etc and ask them if you can walk in back and check out their formed radiator hoses... Find one that looks good, and get it. Cut it to fit.

You should be able to find the vacuum diagram on here. It is easy to follow.
You just need to plug the break booster line into the rear port on the intake, and the front port of the intake goes to your ISV. Done.

The AOS is the black plastic piece that you pour oil into... They commonly leak. Good luck trying to replace the seals while the turbo is on! Some high temp silicone may work... Have to get the surfaces clean first.

I remember I was nervous when I first tore into my engine... It really is no biggie! Just remember to plug the intake holes with paper towels so you don't drop anything in there. You may want to go to NAPA and get some injector hats and O-rings.

 

I would order the kit. It's easier that way.

The AOS is the same thing you add oil into. Just below the fill neck is a hose that lconnects to the venuti and leads to the airbox (or MAF if installed). When doing the venturi delete, you will have to source an additional hose to connect to the top of the AOS and route it directly to the airbox. I found on at NAPA for $10.

 

My venturi delete was a bunch of hoses cut appropriately, purchased from NAPA

 

at the same time, you can find a Ford hose, I need to remember the part number, that has a short 90° bend that fits the AOS top, and you then cut off about 3" and it bends and mates perfectly to the j pipe on an MAF.

 

That's the hose, I used... Never knew it was a Ford item.

 

If you want the hoses to be kink free and run in the proper places, then order the 2 ISV hoses and the brake booster hose. Everything else can be gotten at your local parts store (5/32 vacuum line, and hose from AOS to J boot)

 

ok. So here's a stupid question. So is there a "Venturi" I'm pulling out?! What the heck is this? basically, I'm just taking all vacuum lines out that go to the cyclic valve. (Not needed) and just connecting one line to the intake from the AOS? What exactly was the "venturi" suppose to accomplish in the first place?

Ha, ha. That's funny. I just read alot based on "venturi" I see. Seems like alot of issues may pop up if done incorrectly. (Although I'll just copy what EVERY race Honda does.) It's like you guys are talking a different language here, but are saying the SAME THINGS!!! EXPLINATION EDIT: (Porsche speak vs Honda ...eg. Sensors have different anacronyms, but are the same type as Honda) I have to translate with the search button. EXPLINATION EDIT (Figure out the corresponding sensor to the Porsche anacronym) Luv it. (The Search engine)
- Use Catch can. Check valves, etc. It WILL seperate the oil from the vacuum source. It (oil) will NOT go out your exhaust if installed properly. The exhaust will only be used as a source of Vacuum that does NOT let the oil return to your intake.

Everyone seems confused here. (Aplogies. only a few) Oil will SIGNIFICANTLY decrease your effective "Octane rating" Also think about the compressability (Is that even a word?) of oil compared to air. (Laymens explination. I'll never try to compensate for any shortcomings by trying to impress others here with Mechanical jargon and over complicated Math unless it is purely neccessary) Now you're getting it. And it's just downright messy. any Horsepower is the ultimate goal for myself.
When done correctly, 5hp should be realized. ("Should" and the real world do not always live in the same place) I'll do a dyno comparison sometime this summer. OF course, all of this PALES in comparison to a sumped system.

 

In a pinch, you can get a 3/4 inch 90 degree PCV pipe and just use bulk 3/4 inch radiator hose for the AOS. I ran that way for about a year.

 

Yeah I tore into everything yesterday and it is all very simple. I pulled the venture tube along with the cycling valve. Alright so I run a hose from the top of the AOS to the J boot. Then From the brake booster to the first port on the manifold. The second port I hook up to the isv, where a hose comes off the other side of the isv to the jboot! Correct?? Then I can remove the other mess of hoses dealing with the ISV right? On another note, there is that mount that held the cycling valve, I started to remove the bolt(the one that goes into the head) and coolant started to poor out, can I remove this mount and not have a coolant leak? The AOS on my car looked pretty grimy, are you guys saying its a PITA to remove? How can I reseal it while its in the car?
Sorry for all the little questions here but it is actually rather simple, there are just those minor questions that I have for you!!!
Thanks a million

 

The bolt you started to remove holds the line that feeds coolant from the back of hte head to the heater core. If you remove that mount, you will need to buy shorter bolts as it won't seal effectively. Since you'll need to drain the coolant to avaid a big mess, just leave it place.

 

Here is a pic as to why your coolant leaked. The coolant and timing valve bracket are attached with the same bolts. You can remove the timing valve bracket, but you need to use shorter bolts to hold the coolant neck, as the stock ones will bottom out without the timing bracket installed.

 

95one, if you could spell then maybe that would make understanding your post more effective. I think the only person confused on this thread is you. Everyone who has replied in this thread, with the exception of you, is an experienced wrench and all have built engines/building them now. That's what this forum is about, encountering something you haven't before and seeking advice from others who have.

Some may call IAS, ISV, IAC - we all know what they mean. "comressability" ???

 

Are you offering to do a dyno comparison of the venturi set up and then without?