Help - Still won't run!!
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From: Y-Bridge City, Zanesville, Ohio
Another thought. I don't see any mention of "disconnected and cleaned all the electrical connectors, fuses and relays."
You also don't say if it will start with starting fluid, or is that huge no-no?
You also don't say if it will start with starting fluid, or is that huge no-no?
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Race Car
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All the contacts are clean. I just fooled with it one more time before calling it a night and it will now start without giving it any throttle and idle very very roughly at about 400 rpm. However, if I just think about touching the throttle, it dies. I don't want to, but I think it's time to call in the big guns and spend some bucks. However, any additional input would be appreciated. Also, I'm in San Diego. Any input on where to take it? Maybe someone who has the abbility (flatbed) to come and get it.
Thanks,
Steve
Thanks,
Steve
Under the Lift
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From: Buckeye, AZ
Don't give up yet. MAF unplug test is easy - right under the air filter housing. Might have to pull the MAF out of the intake boot to get to the plug. Simple clamp that holds it require a LONG, thin screwdriver.
Also, this is not inconsistent with LH failure, for that matter. Local San Diego Sharksters with any year S4/GT should step forward. The LH brain is next to the passenger sidewall near the central electrical panel. Package tray above it must be removed first. In the test car you just unplug the harness from the LH and plug yours in.
Also, this is not inconsistent with LH failure, for that matter. Local San Diego Sharksters with any year S4/GT should step forward. The LH brain is next to the passenger sidewall near the central electrical panel. Package tray above it must be removed first. In the test car you just unplug the harness from the LH and plug yours in.
Last edited by Bill Ball; Feb 8, 2005 at 04:16 AM.
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From: Rochester, WA
Originally Posted by Stevestik
After much effort I still cannot get my 928 to run properly, and hope someone here has the answer. I have an 87 S-4, 5 speed, with 45k miles on it that sat unstarted in a garage for ten year. Over the last week Ive done the following work to the car:
1. Installed new timing belt.
2. Installed new water pump.
3. Rebuilt timing belt tensioner.
4. Installed new auxiliary belts.
5. Installed new spark plugs.
6. Installed new fuel filter.
7. Installed new fuel pump.
8. Drained fuel tank.
9. Installed a new battery.
10. Sonically cleaned and flow matched the fuel injectors.
11. Changed the engine oil and filter.
12. Changed the engine coolant.
13. Changed the transmission and differential oil.
14. Flushed and bleed the brake system.
15. Changed the power steering fluid.
Thanks,
Steve
1. Installed new timing belt.
2. Installed new water pump.
3. Rebuilt timing belt tensioner.
4. Installed new auxiliary belts.
5. Installed new spark plugs.
6. Installed new fuel filter.
7. Installed new fuel pump.
8. Drained fuel tank.
9. Installed a new battery.
10. Sonically cleaned and flow matched the fuel injectors.
11. Changed the engine oil and filter.
12. Changed the engine coolant.
13. Changed the transmission and differential oil.
14. Flushed and bleed the brake system.
15. Changed the power steering fluid.
Thanks,
Steve
Just a few thoughts!
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From: Not close enough to VIR.
Shane brings up an excellent point... when it's running, does it sound like an old VW bug? If so, you're probably only running on one bank of cylinders. That's what my car did when the dual distributer belt broke. You don't have that belt, but you could've disconnected something or hooked it up incorrectly.
Fleet of Foot
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From: We are there!(San Diego)
Steve, was it running properly prior to the work you have listed? If so, it may be fairly easy to find the problem as something was probably not installed/connected properly. I'd be willing to do the LH test in my car, but have a feeling you may have a plug wire mix-up as was stated above. PM me if your car is still at home and we can arrange to try this.
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From: Rancho Santa Fe, CA
Call two-bit tow and they will flat bed trailer it to Black Forest. Talk with John (owner) of Jeff. These people know 928 cars. I'm betting on a fuel pump.Tele # is (619)296-8730 for 2 bit and 292-1192 for Black Forest.
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From: Gone. On the Open Road
I agree with Bill Ball. The symptoms are not inconsistent with LH ECU failure. John Speake or Rich Andrade can - I believe - test your existing LH. An LH swap with an area lister would be another good place to start.
Your symptoms could also be the result several different problems ranging from really crufty grounds to a very sticky idle stabilizer to a bad temp sensor II to the hall sensor. (Or all of those.)
The place to start is with the EZK/LH test matrix below. There are sources 'round here that can supply you the supporting documentation for a very reasonable fee - if you haven't already availed yourself of the source. There are also at least one or two threads findable with a search that provide detailed instructions on how to preform the tests.
Your symptoms could also be the result several different problems ranging from really crufty grounds to a very sticky idle stabilizer to a bad temp sensor II to the hall sensor. (Or all of those.)
The place to start is with the EZK/LH test matrix below. There are sources 'round here that can supply you the supporting documentation for a very reasonable fee - if you haven't already availed yourself of the source. There are also at least one or two threads findable with a search that provide detailed instructions on how to preform the tests.
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From: Not close enough to VIR.
Originally Posted by SharkSkin
Brian makes an excellent point. You didn't line up the indent marks on the gears to the pointers while the crank was at 45°, did you? 
Three Wheelin'
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From: San Diego, CA USA
I had an extremely bad experience with Black Forest. I now take my car to Precision Motorwerks in Anaheim. You can have it towed up there pretty cheap, and take the train to Fullerton to pick it up. Greg Brown really knows his stuff, and the attention to detail is unlike what you will find locally.
Greg is not entirely for the faint of heart; there's one way the job will be done: completely and correctly. His labor rates are higher than Black Forest. Personally, I think it's worth the inconvenience -and- the added expense.
But I concur with the others--you may want to dig around a bit more--you could be closer than you think.
Greg is not entirely for the faint of heart; there's one way the job will be done: completely and correctly. His labor rates are higher than Black Forest. Personally, I think it's worth the inconvenience -and- the added expense.
But I concur with the others--you may want to dig around a bit more--you could be closer than you think.
Under the Lift
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There is a flood of good and relatively simple to check ideas here. I like Shane's thought about the mixed plug wires. I did that once, thinking I could just pop the wire ends on the nearest hole in the cap, as that is how I remembered they were before I disconnected them to replace the cap and rotor. Car ran but like poop. I traced the wires and found I had mixed 2 of them.
I understand you want this over, so flatbedding it to the nearest good shop may be right, but Anahein could be 75 miles away, and this could be a simple problem. If you did all that complicated work to the car, you are capable of resolving this.
If the car ran before you did all this work, then it is clearly worth reviewing the details of these jobs for correctness before we go running off checking other possibilities, and others have given good suggestions of things to check. if the car was not running before, you may need to go further after checking your work.
You might put up another topic - Need help with no-start S4 in San Diego or some such and see who that flushes out. You need another set of hands and eyes and a test car.
I understand you want this over, so flatbedding it to the nearest good shop may be right, but Anahein could be 75 miles away, and this could be a simple problem. If you did all that complicated work to the car, you are capable of resolving this.
If the car ran before you did all this work, then it is clearly worth reviewing the details of these jobs for correctness before we go running off checking other possibilities, and others have given good suggestions of things to check. if the car was not running before, you may need to go further after checking your work.
You might put up another topic - Need help with no-start S4 in San Diego or some such and see who that flushes out. You need another set of hands and eyes and a test car.
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From: Las Vegas
Originally Posted by Stevestik
1. Installed new timing belt.
2. Installed new water pump.
3. Rebuilt timing belt tensioner.
4. Installed new auxiliary belts.
5. Installed new spark plugs.
6. Installed new fuel filter.
7. Installed new fuel pump.
8. Drained fuel tank.
9. Installed a new battery.
10. Sonically cleaned and flow matched the fuel injectors.
11. Changed the engine oil and filter.
12. Changed the engine coolant.
13. Changed the transmission and differential oil.
14. Flushed and bleed the brake system.
15. Changed the power steering fluid.
#16..i would check the WOT/idles switch. it could be bad and givign you full enrichement when trying to start.
Looks like you have covered all the biggies and basics.
You obviously have fuel and spark. It appears that the problem lies in how the spark or fuel ar being managed.