mudman2

First, let me say that when I took the pads out the rotor looked

fine and although I have slotted drilled rotors to put on I did

not see the point in wasting them they will go on next time.

Total elapsed time including jacking, wheel removal and the job

itself was 90 minutes

A single bolt hold the pad retaining pin in place, as usual with

fluid locked bolts tighten a fraction to break the seal and then

remove as normal.

Leave the bolt in couple of turns and tap the end to start the

pin on its way through.

I used a broad flat screw driver as a drift to knock the pin

through and a mole grip to pull it through. Its a pain to get

through I warn you.

Once the pin is out, break the sensor wires , its easier.

Use a driver to lever the pads out.

Removing the old sensor cable was hard so breaking the connector

seemed easier. Route the new cable to the connector and behind

the little loop on the brake nipple rubber cover.

The sensors clip in with the thick part pad side.

To get the new pads in you will find that depressing one of the

pistons is easy, the second ok the third forces out the other 2.

I found the easiest way was to depress the first 2 and then slip

the pad in, with the pad bkocking the first 2 depress the third

and push the pad into place. Its not hard just fiddly.

You really need three hands to put the pin back through. The best

way is to depress the pad retaining spring and tap the pin

through, for the last part you will need to push the pin itself

into line.

Dont forget to get blue loctite for the pin bolt and brake grease

for the back of the pad.

TimC.

Awesome detail thanks!!!....so much trust in that Craftsman jack with your legs under there...LOL

skl

A Christmas Eve project eh? Had to get out of the house didn't you??

Isn't year old black brake dust just wonderful...did you replace with OEM pads or something hopefully with less dust? I'm thinking of Rotex Gold- anything but those damned OEM dustbusters!!

mudman2

What you cant see in those shots are the axle stands holding up the car I am no fool !

I put Brembo pads on, not low dust. Rejex Rules.

LVDell

Thanks Michael! BTW, did you use anit-squeal shims on the back of the pads? I use them on my 996 pads but have not done my Pepper yet (only 5K miles so far).

mudman2

No they did not call for them I just used the grease.

LVDell

The grease? Any pics or description?

mudman2

Just regular pad anti squeal grease, you smear it thinly on the back of the pad. Any auto parts store has it just ask them.

broskinny

You have the brake pad warning sensor harness routed on the inside of the pin instead of the outside.
Is it going to get pinched against the spring plate as the pads wear?

mudman2

I spotted that when I was finished so I re routed them but the camera battery was flat by then. Well spotted !

MadFox

Bravo! A truly smart guy! Great Documentation... for those PROPERLY equipped and with axle stands (safety first) your pics and steps are great... For those not with the "proper tools"... it confirms that at least for this guy --- uh-hum... I'll let the "professionals" do it!!

ltc

Hold on a second, I'm confused.

56K miles and I've never done the brakes.
(for that matter I've never opened the hood or done anything else....).

disclaimer: skl DID guilt me into attempting to wash the wheels after 2+ years of ownership....I ran out of Brillo pads so I didn't finish.

Are you guys telling me I actually have to have MAINTANENCE done on this thing?
I was just under the naive assumption that I would drive it until it dies

Truble10

Nice description & pics. Looks like a little more work than the old "big reds".

Romantic911

Exellent ..thanks V.much .. and i appreciated if you carry on with the rear brakes

mudman2

Will do when required.