The Blackstone Labs Oil Report Thread
#16
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Has anyone heard of MIllers oil? UK company with a product that uses nano technology? Lots of brit mags raving about it. Here is a sample
http://www.fastcar.co.uk/2012/08/28/...anodrive-test/
http://www.millersoils.co.uk/news/20...Power-Test.asp
http://www.sae.org/mags/aei/mtrsp/11201
Kevin any thoughts here? Sorry for the highjack, this issue has been on my mind for some time and I want to look into it a bit further.
http://www.fastcar.co.uk/2012/08/28/...anodrive-test/
http://www.millersoils.co.uk/news/20...Power-Test.asp
http://www.sae.org/mags/aei/mtrsp/11201
Kevin any thoughts here? Sorry for the highjack, this issue has been on my mind for some time and I want to look into it a bit further.
#17
Agent Orange
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Not a hijack at all, this is perfect! I was actually speaking with someone from a US based nano tech oil additive company and he told me his product is supposed to have the same effects. My reservation is that if the technology is so good, how come the big guys haven't adopted it yet...
#18
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The holy grail for engine oil is to "find" a oil that freezes your engine wear. The factory 0W40 sheers. You can see it happening as you put miles on the car after the oil change. Watch your oil pressure once the car is hot.. New oil has the oil pressure at 2bar.. as you get towards 4K to 5K the oil pressure drops to 1 bar. The first thing that I did when I bought my car is to bump up the idle. Similar to what I have done on the 993TT and 996TT.
Due to worldwide emission standards, the zinc and phosphorus levels previous to 2008 have been cut in half. These are the primary metal on metal wear conditioners. Mobil 0W40, 5W50 and Motul 300V, Rotella T6 have introduced Moly, boron, magnesium, and calcium (anti foam) levels to account for the loss of the zinc and phosphorous.
However, in this country we always have something grandfathered in.. Race oil, Motorcycle oil AND heavy equiptment/offshore marine diesel engines are exempt and can keep the zinc and phosphorous metal conditioning agents. Go to the Mobil 1 website. They are now recommending the Motorcycle Mobil 1 VTwin oil for Porsche aircooled engines. It is a GREAT oil and reverses the metal wear numbers! I have seen it. The problem for us is>> the viscosity is 10 points to high since it is a 20W50 oil.
To wrap it up, for my shop fill in watercooled Porsche engines I recommend blending Mobil 1 0W40 and Mobil 5W50 (as of May 2019 I am blending Redline in my personal turbo 911's). For those that don't buy the Heavy duty oil option "google" the use of these two oils. You will see many UOA, in many performance cars. As a disclaimer, I am running the new Motul 300V in a blended weight to improve the sheering that I have seen on our engines. Please note that we have 5 roots geared oil pumps in our engine, the beats the oil like a blender. I am still looking for the BEST overall engine oil that will show stable aluminum, copper and iron levels on the Blackstone reports.
There are new oils coming to market. Please use caution, we want to see UOA's from fellow users for a period of time.. 20K miles and maybe a year of reports before jumping ship. Lastly for those that want a approved Porsche oil the 5W50 Mobil 1 is a good oil. I prefer it over the 0W40.
Due to worldwide emission standards, the zinc and phosphorus levels previous to 2008 have been cut in half. These are the primary metal on metal wear conditioners. Mobil 0W40, 5W50 and Motul 300V, Rotella T6 have introduced Moly, boron, magnesium, and calcium (anti foam) levels to account for the loss of the zinc and phosphorous.
However, in this country we always have something grandfathered in.. Race oil, Motorcycle oil AND heavy equiptment/offshore marine diesel engines are exempt and can keep the zinc and phosphorous metal conditioning agents. Go to the Mobil 1 website. They are now recommending the Motorcycle Mobil 1 VTwin oil for Porsche aircooled engines. It is a GREAT oil and reverses the metal wear numbers! I have seen it. The problem for us is>> the viscosity is 10 points to high since it is a 20W50 oil.
To wrap it up, for my shop fill in watercooled Porsche engines I recommend blending Mobil 1 0W40 and Mobil 5W50 (as of May 2019 I am blending Redline in my personal turbo 911's). For those that don't buy the Heavy duty oil option "google" the use of these two oils. You will see many UOA, in many performance cars. As a disclaimer, I am running the new Motul 300V in a blended weight to improve the sheering that I have seen on our engines. Please note that we have 5 roots geared oil pumps in our engine, the beats the oil like a blender. I am still looking for the BEST overall engine oil that will show stable aluminum, copper and iron levels on the Blackstone reports.
There are new oils coming to market. Please use caution, we want to see UOA's from fellow users for a period of time.. 20K miles and maybe a year of reports before jumping ship. Lastly for those that want a approved Porsche oil the 5W50 Mobil 1 is a good oil. I prefer it over the 0W40.
Last edited by Kevin; 05-29-2019 at 09:56 PM.
#19
Agent Orange
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Kevin thank you so much for posting this! I was using Brad Penn 20W50 in my air-cooled cars for years and loved the results, but that viscosity doesn't work on water-cooled car.
I may try the 5W40 TDT next time around. Please keep us posted on the Motul 300V.
I may try the 5W40 TDT next time around. Please keep us posted on the Motul 300V.
#20
Three Wheelin'
Same here, Mobil 5w40 TDT it will be !
I mentioned this already somewhere but at the last service the dealer used Mobil 5-50 peak life for my turbo. That was summer of last year.
Because of this thread I emailed him to find out why they did this.
He told me 'unofficial' recommendation from Porsche for turbo cars. It lowers oil consumption he said.
JFYI
I mentioned this already somewhere but at the last service the dealer used Mobil 5-50 peak life for my turbo. That was summer of last year.
Because of this thread I emailed him to find out why they did this.
He told me 'unofficial' recommendation from Porsche for turbo cars. It lowers oil consumption he said.
JFYI
#21
Little off topic question. Can I change just a filter without drain the oil? Dealer just finished coolant leak repair and they filled the fresh oil after replacing some oil fittings but they didn't replace the filter. My filter is about 7 month old and 4k miles on it.
#22
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Denis that's a great photo!
Silver >> 100% the sooner the better. I tell folks that oil filters are cheap and take less than 10 minutes to change (when you have done them once).. If you run your engine oil to 4K miles you can change the filter at the 2K mark.
Note: The oil filter is a element not a contained metal cartridge. This will allow one to inspect the filter pleats for metal and debris. You can place the oil filter in a freezer bag and store them for future reference in a metal coffee can. It is a GREAT selling feature.. If you let the car sit over night the oil will drain away from the filter element (it will have a little oil in it).
Lastly, I recommend that on oil changes that you remove the TWO fuel pump fuses. When the fuses are removed, you can turn the engine over without it starting. You will gain oil pressure within 15 to 20 seconds. Insert the fuses and start the engine. By doing this you don't dry start your engine. The bulk of engine wear happens at start up, your engine wear will be minimized by doing this. You will also get rid of the lifter starvation rattle on your oil change.
Silver >> 100% the sooner the better. I tell folks that oil filters are cheap and take less than 10 minutes to change (when you have done them once).. If you run your engine oil to 4K miles you can change the filter at the 2K mark.
Note: The oil filter is a element not a contained metal cartridge. This will allow one to inspect the filter pleats for metal and debris. You can place the oil filter in a freezer bag and store them for future reference in a metal coffee can. It is a GREAT selling feature.. If you let the car sit over night the oil will drain away from the filter element (it will have a little oil in it).
Lastly, I recommend that on oil changes that you remove the TWO fuel pump fuses. When the fuses are removed, you can turn the engine over without it starting. You will gain oil pressure within 15 to 20 seconds. Insert the fuses and start the engine. By doing this you don't dry start your engine. The bulk of engine wear happens at start up, your engine wear will be minimized by doing this. You will also get rid of the lifter starvation rattle on your oil change.
#23
Agent Orange
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Sage advice! I used to pull the DME relay off my air-cooled cars and crank for a few seconds to build oil pressure. It's very helpful if the car sits for a few weeks. Now I know what to do on the 997TT, thank you Kevin!
#24
Trucker
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So today was oil change day.
Last month I bought a new Passat TDI since they get such good fuel economy. And today I gave it the first oil change at 4,000 miles and their recommended oil is either VW badged stuff they sell in their part department or Mobile 5W40TDT!!!! OK, no problem, it is a turbo diesel and that's what I put in...
But now my '07 997TT...I drained the oil and took out the filter (oil sample analysis will be done), but I have not put in any fresh oil yet. Should I really put in Mobile 5W40TDT? Isn't this oil for diesels?
Sorry - I don't want to open another can of worms...but here we go!
Last month I bought a new Passat TDI since they get such good fuel economy. And today I gave it the first oil change at 4,000 miles and their recommended oil is either VW badged stuff they sell in their part department or Mobile 5W40TDT!!!! OK, no problem, it is a turbo diesel and that's what I put in...
But now my '07 997TT...I drained the oil and took out the filter (oil sample analysis will be done), but I have not put in any fresh oil yet. Should I really put in Mobile 5W40TDT? Isn't this oil for diesels?
Sorry - I don't want to open another can of worms...but here we go!
Last edited by Igooz; 05-07-2013 at 11:54 PM. Reason: Typo!
#25
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Lastly, I recommend that on oil changes that you remove the TWO fuel pump fuses. When the fuses are removed, you can turn the engine over without it starting. You will gain oil pressure within 15 to 20 seconds. Insert the fuses and start the engine. By doing this you don't dry start your engine. The bulk of engine wear happens at start up, your engine wear will be minimized by doing this. You will also get rid of the lifter starvation rattle on your oil change.
#28
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Igooz, you decide for yourself what you feel comfortable with. Moving up to Mobil 5W50 is a great summertime choice and year round in most parts of the world. If you are looking for a little more ZDDP, Mobil TDT 5W40 and Rotella T6 5W40 is a great choice. I mention the Rotella because I get emails telling me that the Mobil product is hard to find.
I would also recommend getting some oil containers from Blackstone (free) and starting your own baseline testing. You can track your oil detergent levels with the TBN (oil distance marker) and wear levels.
Jerry, the engine isn't running when you have the fuel pump fuses pulled. Less wear and tear when you are building oil pressure for the first time after a oil change.
I would also recommend getting some oil containers from Blackstone (free) and starting your own baseline testing. You can track your oil detergent levels with the TBN (oil distance marker) and wear levels.
Jerry, the engine isn't running when you have the fuel pump fuses pulled. Less wear and tear when you are building oil pressure for the first time after a oil change.
#29
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I forgot to mention a little tip. When you drop the oil filter element in, you can pour a 1/2 quart of oil into the middle of the oil filter element. The oil will go to the oil galley. It takes some time off the start/oil prime duration.
#30
Trucker
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Igooz, you decide for yourself what you feel comfortable with. Moving up to Mobil 5W50 is a great summertime choice and year round in most parts of the world. If you are looking for a little more ZDDP, Mobil TDT 5W40 and Rotella T6 5W40 is a great choice. I mention the Rotella because I get emails telling me that the Mobil product is hard to find...
Same oil on a 2008 GT2? I don't have time to drive it hard anymore, so it is seeing only light duty use.