spoiler
#1
spoiler
I noticed this weekend that I had hydraulic fluid leaking down my rear deck lid and the spoiler was not retracting on one side...yikes! What am I looking at in repair or replacement options? Thank you
#2
Drifting
there is an electric retrofit that is 1300ish i think, stock oem aint much better in price. You can fix the wing at a desired height with a kit for 150 bux or you can fix them in place yourself with a trip to ACE hardware.
#3
or you can re-bleeed the system per porsche factory guidelines with a can of pentosin and some fairly skilled help. many DIY'r have done this successfully. i'm going on my 2nd re-bleed on two different cars. no continuing issue(s).
#4
appears to me both sides are leaking..passenger side stays extended some of the time...still think a re-bleed could do the trick? I did not know Ace hardware had an automotive section!
#5
ya, most any uneven deployment is *usually* remedied with the re-bleed ( this provided no internal parts are broken.. )
but it's not for the faint of heart to attempt. ya gotta be a really good diy'r or a competent tech. although porsche has factory docs showing how to accomplish it? porsche also only replaces all the hydraulics any time a 996 or 997 turbo is in to have this issue "fixed" with a brand new $2000.00 assembly. all for the want of some pentosin hydraulic fluid.
that should tell you something lol. if you want a full step by step instruction sheet?.. i'll find it again.
but it's not for the faint of heart to attempt. ya gotta be a really good diy'r or a competent tech. although porsche has factory docs showing how to accomplish it? porsche also only replaces all the hydraulics any time a 996 or 997 turbo is in to have this issue "fixed" with a brand new $2000.00 assembly. all for the want of some pentosin hydraulic fluid.
that should tell you something lol. if you want a full step by step instruction sheet?.. i'll find it again.
#6
I just got my pump repaired (top blew off) and rams rebuilt from Marios Hydraulic in Fl. They're listed on ebay $699 for a complete rebuild. Now have a better then new spoiler. They were prompt and responsive.
#7
ya, most any uneven deployment is *usually* remedied with the re-bleed ( this provided no internal parts are broken.. )
but it's not for the faint of heart to attempt. ya gotta be a really good diy'r or a competent tech. although porsche has factory docs showing how to accomplish it? porsche also only replaces all the hydraulics any time a 996 or 997 turbo is in to have this issue "fixed" with a brand new $2000.00 assembly. all for the want of some pentosin hydraulic fluid.
that should tell you something lol. if you want a full step by step instruction sheet?.. i'll find it again.
but it's not for the faint of heart to attempt. ya gotta be a really good diy'r or a competent tech. although porsche has factory docs showing how to accomplish it? porsche also only replaces all the hydraulics any time a 996 or 997 turbo is in to have this issue "fixed" with a brand new $2000.00 assembly. all for the want of some pentosin hydraulic fluid.
that should tell you something lol. if you want a full step by step instruction sheet?.. i'll find it again.
/\ Thanks for sharing. Curious to know, how long did it take? I saw the listing on ebay. Do you know exactly what they do?
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#8
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#9
as carlo has just pointed out, the *best* solution to this issue really is dave's e-ram kit.
#10
When I spoke with the owner (Mario) before shipping everything down to them, he stated that they would re-buiild my system (rams and pump with new/improved components, seals, o-rings, etc). The turnaround took about 2 days. They shipped the system out last Tuesday, I received it Saturday morning and installed that afternoon. Everything looked good and most importantly it works.
#11
here's the re-bleed procedure for the umpteenth time. for anyone with skill and patience lol
1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position
2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.
3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid
4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud
5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed
6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening
7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.
8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off
9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining
10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids
11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full
12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts
13. Torque the banjo bolts snug
14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires
15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)
16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts
17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud
18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light
it works.
1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position
2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.
3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid
4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud
5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed
6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening
7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.
8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off
9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining
10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids
11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full
12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts
13. Torque the banjo bolts snug
14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires
15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)
16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts
17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud
18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light
it works.
#12
Three Wheelin'
When I spoke with the owner (Mario) before shipping everything down to them, he stated that they would re-buiild my system (rams and pump with new/improved components, seals, o-rings, etc). The turnaround took about 2 days. They shipped the system out last Tuesday, I received it Saturday morning and installed that afternoon. Everything looked good and most importantly it works.
#13