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Old 01-30-2017, 11:35 AM   #1
Ciiidds
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I noticed this weekend that I had hydraulic fluid leaking down my rear deck lid and the spoiler was not retracting on one side...yikes! What am I looking at in repair or replacement options? Thank you
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Old 01-30-2017, 12:04 PM   #2
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there is an electric retrofit that is 1300ish i think, stock oem aint much better in price. You can fix the wing at a desired height with a kit for 150 bux or you can fix them in place yourself with a trip to ACE hardware.
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Old 01-30-2017, 12:37 PM   #3
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or you can re-bleeed the system per porsche factory guidelines with a can of pentosin and some fairly skilled help. many DIY'r have done this successfully. i'm going on my 2nd re-bleed on two different cars. no continuing issue(s).
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Old 01-30-2017, 02:39 PM   #4
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appears to me both sides are leaking..passenger side stays extended some of the time...still think a re-bleed could do the trick? I did not know Ace hardware had an automotive section!
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Old 01-30-2017, 03:11 PM   #5
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ya, most any uneven deployment is *usually* remedied with the re-bleed ( this provided no internal parts are broken.. )

but it's not for the faint of heart to attempt. ya gotta be a really good diy'r or a competent tech. although porsche has factory docs showing how to accomplish it? porsche also only replaces all the hydraulics any time a 996 or 997 turbo is in to have this issue "fixed" with a brand new $2000.00 assembly. all for the want of some pentosin hydraulic fluid.

that should tell you something lol. if you want a full step by step instruction sheet?.. i'll find it again.
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Old 01-30-2017, 05:12 PM   #6
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I just got my pump repaired (top blew off) and rams rebuilt from Marios Hydraulic in Fl. They're listed on ebay $699 for a complete rebuild. Now have a better then new spoiler. They were prompt and responsive.
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Old 01-30-2017, 05:34 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by "02996ttx50 View Post
ya, most any uneven deployment is *usually* remedied with the re-bleed ( this provided no internal parts are broken.. )

but it's not for the faint of heart to attempt. ya gotta be a really good diy'r or a competent tech. although porsche has factory docs showing how to accomplish it? porsche also only replaces all the hydraulics any time a 996 or 997 turbo is in to have this issue "fixed" with a brand new $2000.00 assembly. all for the want of some pentosin hydraulic fluid.

that should tell you something lol. if you want a full step by step instruction sheet?.. i'll find it again.
I tried a rebleed with pentosin with a buddy here on RL. Unfortunately it didn't work

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I just got my pump repaired (top blew off) and rams rebuilt from Marios Hydraulic in Fl. They're listed on ebay $699 for a complete rebuild. Now have a better then new spoiler. They were prompt and responsive.
/\ Thanks for sharing. Curious to know, how long did it take? I saw the listing on ebay. Do you know exactly what they do?
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Old 01-30-2017, 06:14 PM   #8
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There is also an replacement electric alternative.

http://rennkit.com/product-info/
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Old 01-30-2017, 09:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
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I tried a rebleed with pentosin with a buddy here on RL. Unfortunately it didn't work
yeah it's not for everyone. but for those that have successfully been able to refill the fluid that seeped, feel truly vindicated. my tech is a full time porsche tech so he's got it down to science.

as carlo has just pointed out, the *best* solution to this issue really is dave's e-ram kit.
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Old 01-30-2017, 10:19 PM   #10
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When I spoke with the owner (Mario) before shipping everything down to them, he stated that they would re-buiild my system (rams and pump with new/improved components, seals, o-rings, etc). The turnaround took about 2 days. They shipped the system out last Tuesday, I received it Saturday morning and installed that afternoon. Everything looked good and most importantly it works.
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Old 01-30-2017, 10:55 PM   #11
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here's the re-bleed procedure for the umpteenth time. for anyone with skill and patience lol

1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position
2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.
3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid
4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud
5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed
6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening
7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.
8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off
9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining
10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids
11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full
12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts
13. Torque the banjo bolts snug
14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires
15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)
16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts
17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud
18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light


it works.
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Old 01-31-2017, 07:21 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my04996tt View Post
When I spoke with the owner (Mario) before shipping everything down to them, he stated that they would re-buiild my system (rams and pump with new/improved components, seals, o-rings, etc). The turnaround took about 2 days. They shipped the system out last Tuesday, I received it Saturday morning and installed that afternoon. Everything looked good and most importantly it works.
if you really want to fix it for a longer term, have them provide limit switches on both rams and wire them in. Some things to consider here
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Old 02-04-2017, 06:45 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Carlo_Carrera View Post
There is also an replacement electric alternative.

http://rennkit.com/product-info/
I helped Beta Test this. Just do it and be done. Worked perfect, much faster deployment, priced at about what fixing the hydraulic ones will costs but they will fail again and again. Dave has GREAT instructions and great customer service. plus you can have it go up 4" now if you want, vs the stock 2".
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Old 02-04-2017, 06:50 PM   #14
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Dave I need your rennkit, would you be down with a group buy discount?
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Old 02-04-2017, 10:55 PM   #15
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Why would you choose to rebuild the original hydraulics over the electric motor solution? It appears the electric choice is more predictable and longer lasting.
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