Kevinmacd

I know oil has been kicked around here a lot, but since M1 5w-50 is hard to come by, which iIhave been using, is it okay to use M1 15w-50, I live in S Fla so the cold startup is not an issue. I know the ZDDP in M1 15w-50 is higher than 5w-50, so just trying to solicit some opinions!

Dock

Have you tried the forum's "search" function?

Macster

Not a PCNA certified oil. Primarily I think the presence of a rather large dose of additives, including ZDDP, is why it is not certified.

I can find Mobil 1 5w-50 oil oil on the shelves of several of the larger auto parts chain stores.

Also, I have no trouble finding Mobil 1 5w-50 at a very nearby Mobil Oil distributor. The main reason I buy it from the distributor is that often the chain stores don't have the 10 quarts I need. Nine quarts (or thereabouts) for the oil change and a spare quart to carry in the car in case I have to top up between oil change intervals.

The only negative from buying from the distributor -- and it is a small negative -- is one has to buy by the case which is 6 quarts, so I buy 2 cases for the Turbo and end up with 2 quarts left over.

But I'm going to run the oil in my Boxster so I'll first see if I can find another 8 at a local auto parts store and if not I'll just buy another two cases from the distributor.

Sincerely,

Macster.

WSH

I recently bought 12 qts of M1 5w50 at Napa
On sale $5.79 per quart PLUS used the mail in rebate offer (twice) to save another $24
Net cost...$3.79 per quart



wsh

Dock

Wow, great find/buy!

Kevin

15W is too thick to run on the H2O engines..

10W is the highest weight that you can run in Florida.

The higher weight is very tough on the vario cam and inlet tappet circuit.

5W or 10W will be the correct weight for Florida

T2

I have a 2003 Turbo X50 and it is just about to pass the 300,000 mile mark - I change the oil every 5000 miles and have always used 0W-40 Mobil 1. Just another data point to consider.

manny_g

i took kevins advice and switched to mobile 1 5w40 tdt. purchased at advanced discount auto for $8.00/ct.

No HTwo O

Great results all they way around. Congrats.

LVDell

I run the 5W-50 and wouldn't think of running anything thicker. If anything, I would go DOWN to 0W-40.

larry47us

Now THAT'S the kind of data point I love to hear about. Especially with only 27K on the clock on my car, it's nice to see the longevity. I am assuming that you did it without extraordinary engine/tranny repairs. Great news.

larry

Kevinmacd

Heres why I pose the question, in Florida especially during the summer, you will always see higher ambient temps than up North or in north Germany. I have come to understand the 5w is whats measured at 0 degress C, so since ambient temps here in S Fla are much higher than that, and W meaning winter, does 5w flow like 15W at 75 degress, no data I have seen supports anything other than the low test temps of 0 deg C, or anything below 100 deg C. If it does than 15W - 50 vs 5w - 50 should not be an issue right? They both support the same level of additives from what I have read!

Macster

In no region of the world does Porsche certify anything but a 0w-40, 5w-40, or 5w-50 oil. Porsche does state that for temps below -25C 0W-(40) is recommended/advised. Above -25C 5W-(40/50) is ok to use, but so is 0w-40.

These engines have very sophisticated hydraulic systems that not only ensure zero valve lash but also support the very critical variable valve timing and valve lift features.

A heavier W oil (10W/15w) apparently has been deemed by Porsche too 'thick' (at the W end of the temp scale) to use in these engines.

Further the 15w-50 oil has a big dose of ZDDP. Some believe this is a very necessary additive to prevent wear/scuffing, but if so that's just a sign the oil is not able to provide this protection on its own and needs help.

BTW, this material is a metal and 'thickens' the oil and thus the oil can run hotter -- all other things being equal -- than a 5w-50 oil that has no ZDDP content. The extra heat comes from the oil's friction.

The ingredients of oils are listed by their percentage of weight. Thus an oil with say 2.5% ZDDP means that only 97.5% by weight of the contents of the quart bottle of oil is oil. Since oil is fairly light (floats on water) a substantial amount of oil is additive, not oil.

It is the oil that provides the lubrication the engine needs, the fluid characteristics the engine's internal hydraulic systems (zero-lash adjusters, variable valve timing and variable valve lift) require, and acts to help remove the heat from the hotter areas of the engine to eventually the cooling system.

A big load of additives just gets in the way of the oil doing all of this.

We all want to ensure the engines of these fantastic cars last as long as possible, that these engines maintain their high level of performance for as long as possible.

There is no magic oil elixer. Buy an approved oil. Change the oil/filter at regular intervals, erring on the side of too soon rather than too late. Remember, the oil is the sacrificial component in the engine/oil pairing. The idea is to use oil to prolong the engine's useful service life not to see how little one can spend on oil and oil servicing over the life of the car and its very critical and expensive to repair or replace engine.

Furthremore, be sure the air filter is in good shape. Dirt in the air getting past the air filter is a factor into contributing to accelerated engine wear and many do not realize just how much 'dirt' is in the air.

Then just drive the car.

Sincerely,

Macster.

Carlo_Carrera

M1 5w-40 is available at Walmarts by me in 4qt jugs. A few guys here really like it and it is cheap compared to the 0W-50.

Carlo_Carrera

Can someone explain why if you mix 5qts of 0w-40 with 5qts of 15w-50 you don't get 10qts of 7.5w-45?